FS7: F Stop Dark.

To be clear I'm not an advocate of 6000 ISO shooting!

But is it 'Christmas' and we have had two shoots where basically the event was a light show.

Now the show its self was bright but the audience reaction (kids faces, 'awed' expressions) was basically in the dark

The mobile/performance nature of the events meant no lighting.

Same could happen at a conference - bloke on stage well lit, audience 'applause/facination' and reactions basically in the dark with no lighting allowed.

Those reaction shots give you cut points.

S
 
On-camera LED is about £35 for just those type of scenarios, but I appreciate that doesn't help you when you're out shooting and don't have it.
 
Ben Scott said:
On-camera LED is about £35 for just those type of scenarios, but I appreciate that doesn't help you when you're out shooting and don't have it.
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I have a dedo Dled4. But you cant be at a conference and suddenly just blat (and that thing can really blat people!) a member of the audience - you'de get chucked out!

For vox pops after the main event, absolutely.

Not to mention the poor quality of a hardish light close to the camera.

S
 
FYI a shot (on the FS7).. with the girl close to the light I just get away with it! 70-200F4/booster Slog.

Id walk this with the FS100, and need to work out how to 'walk it' with the FS7

A little LED woud ruin this and actually cos im at 200 be dribbling in the wind anyway.

My feeling is if Id used Custom/Slog/Nr I would have had a cleaner file, hence doing some tests.

lights_1.161.1.jpg
 
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In fairness a little LED would probably not even reach that far :)

Cool shot. I guess in that scenario aside from high iso the only option is to use much faster glass.
 
morgan_moore said:
I actually dont know about how the 'processors' work in camera - but I think NR is kind of part of the package of how high gains are made - ie doing the NR before doing the 12bit to 10bit data compression step is preferred.

Im feeling doing it in camera is good if you are shooting a stress environment ie 6000 ISO

For a 'thickly exposed' 1200-2000 shot NR is best off and maybe a sprinkling added in post.

S
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I'd argue that it's impossible to create a 'thick' negative by overexposing log footage - and I think your comparison pic bares that fact out nicely Sam. The compression higher up in the gamma curve kills tonality. IMO the only way to expose log footage is 'properly' - put 'white' where it belongs, put 'middle grey' where it belongs, and be wary of your shadows, because you don't want to have to lift them.
 
Ben Scott said:
In fairness a little LED would probably not even reach that far :)

Cool shot. I guess in that scenario aside from high iso the only option is to use much faster glass.
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Yep im thinking SLogCustomNr would give me a stop.

This is 2.8 (4+booster), personally I dislike 70-200 2.8 as too heavy and made too badly - I might consider a 105/1.8 or 135/2 but then focus starts to hurt (also 70-200 is a nice pick it off on sticks length allowing varied compostions)

S
 
Grug said:
I'd argue that it's impossible to create a 'thick' negative by overexposing log footage - and I think your comparison pic bares that fact out nicely Sam. The compression higher up in the gamma curve kills tonality. IMO the only way to expose log footage is 'properly' - put 'white' where it belongs, put 'middle grey' where it belongs, and be wary of your shadows, because you don't want to have to lift them.
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I think there are two tracks here - Im not sure to which one you comment.

Shooting in the dark (the pic of the little girl) one is just trying to avoid the noise floor and take the 'negative' from 'way too thin' to 'acceptable'

Shooting in normal/bright is really another chat - I should have done a different thread for those selfies :)

S
 
A Contax Zeiss 135mm f2.8 can be had for around £150 and is an amazing piece of glass, especially if also using a speedbooster. Nice big rotation on the focus too so you can be more accurate.

Personally I'd take occasional wandering focus (which appears to be a 'thing' these days anyway) if it meant not having to shoot at ISO 6000.
 
I have a 135 2.8 (and 85/2) -which I could have used but dont think of them as RnG lenses but sometimes that stop is golden to have - lesson learned

Im nikon and 105 1.8 are cheap or 135/2 for a few more quid but both bulky

Really just a 'once a year' lens!

S
 
Not a problem for my to buy any of that stuff - its more just learning which tools for which job.

I have two lens bags,

RNG bag 70-200, 28-85, (add 20,35,50)
And my cine bag 14,18,20,24,28,35,50,55,85

Coming back to the original image I reckon SlogCustom,CameraNR, is the cleanest.

S
 
Fair enough. In which case low/no light night shoot = the fastest glass available to humanity required and zoom with your feet :)
 
..and use Custom mode with NR enabled.

(my current thought)

S


One thing about the 135/2, 105 1.8 is actually the focus travel is a bit long for solo shooting - partly why I dont have those lenses. (I have owned nikkor 135/2 and 85 1.4 in the past)
 
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I'll admit it every mode other than CINE-EI scares me. I have no idea what additional functions/settings I've enabled or not. Same way my DSLRs have never ever been in anything other than full manual mode.

But yeah, I really should have more of a play when time permits.
 
Ben Scott said:
I'll admit it every mode other than CINE-EI scares me. I have no idea what additional functions/settings I've enabled or not. Same way my DSLRs have never ever been in anything other than full manual mode.

But yeah, I really should have more of a play when time permits.
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Totally agree - but the ISO on DLSRs is well managed

Simply with a DLSR (or FS100) I know that above 3200 or whatever is a bit murky and avoid where possible- the thing is with this cam one may need to go..

under 3200? - IE

over 3200? - Custom mode

A litte more complex than spinning a wheel.

S
 
Yup every dslr type where possible (except the a7) I lock max iso to 3200.

I might have to do a little night test and see what this baby can do at higher isos but for paid work I think I'll still be steering clear of anything too high irrespective of mode.

EDIT: Or I might just live vicariously though your tests and follow your findings instead :)
 
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Would you consider using a Speedbooster Ultra Sam?

Having that extra stop may help with the noise. I'm testing it out but it does exhibit some quirky iris issues at the moment on the FS7 ( slow iris in advanced mode / reasonable iris speed but flashing in Eco mode) I know it's not 100% suitable for R&G work at the moment.



Surinder.
 
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