GH2 EXCLUSIVE ! NANOHA 5X ultra macro lens M43 -quick and first hands-on-

Insects are one of my main interests. Unfortunately shallow depth of field is what you have to deal with in close-up photography. What you experienced with the Raynox DCR-250 will be similar to any other lens at that magnification. As the magnification gets higher the depth of field becomes next to nothing. However, handling high magnification can be more difficult on longer lenses as they greatly magnify the movement. With stills photography I prefer a shorter focal length lens for high magnification as the shorter working distance allows me more control over the camera and lighting. For hand held shooting I balance the end of the lens on my left hand. My left hand is then braced against something, or I hold what the insect is perched on. If you hold on to a flower with an insect feeding on it, and rest the end of the lens on this hand the movement of the camera is locked into the same phase of the movement as the flower and insect. Of course you need a short working distance for this, but it can provide surprising stability.

EBay is a good place for used lenses but the bidders can get too carried away at times and push the price a bit too high. Photographic dealers that sell used gear are good as they can have a large selection of used lenses. You can probably pick the best deals up with private local classifieds, but you really need to know what you are looking for. Any of the camera manufacturers own lenses are good and so are many of the better independent brands, Tamron, Sigma, Tokina, Kiron, Vivitar etc. Something like a 28mm or 35mm f2.8 will be a good starting point for higher magnification and a 50mm f1.7 or f1.8 for less magnification. The one things to look out for on older lenses is fungus. Hold the lens up with the aperture wide open, and look through it against a light even tone background. Expect to see a bit of dust but reject any where you see fungal growth. Also check that the aperture blades open and close okay.

You could use a reversing ring to reverse the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 but you won't have control over the aperture. It may be possible to pre-set the aperture on camera and then reverse it. However someone who has tried it with this lens would have to confirm it works as I've never tried it. If you get a m4/3 reverse adaptor (eBay is probably the best starting point) it will have a particular male filter thread. It doesn't matter if it isn't the same one as on your lens as step-up or step-down rings will allow any lens with a filter thread to be connected to the reverse adapter via the right stepping rings.

Thanks for the great advice. I'll try. As you say, I think a 28mm or 35mm f2.8 will be a good starting point.

I don't want to spend too much $ on it now. And I hope Panasonic or other companies will make some macro lens in 90mm or higher in future. Then I may spend more $ on this macro hobby.
 
I just bought it for $12.12 inc. shipping. This will be my first reversing ring. I'll let you know how it performs with the 14-42mm lens.
 
Thanks for the great advice. I'll try. As you say, I think a 28mm or 35mm f2.8 will be a good starting point.

I don't want to spend too much $ on it now. And I hope Panasonic or other companies will make some macro lens in 90mm or higher in future. Then I may spend more $ on this macro hobby.

Is this lens OK to do macro (using reversing) for less magnification?

http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/pho/2658234623.html
CANON FD LENS 50/1.8, Fotodiox m4/3 adapter, UV Filter - $70

I really have no experience finding those 35mm film lens. It is not easy for me. Still learning.
 
Is this lens OK to do macro (using reversing) for less magnification?

http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/pho/2658234623.html
CANON FD LENS 50/1.8, Fotodiox m4/3 adapter, UV Filter - $70

I really have no experience finding those 35mm film lens. It is not easy for me. Still learning.

The one things you have to look out for with FD lenses in the reverse position is that to be able to use the aperture ring a pin needs to be depressed on the lens mount. I'm rusty on the details but I quickly found this link that explains more. Canon did use to make an adapter for this, which was very much like an end of lens cap with no centre in it. Whilst I believe you can make one from an old end of lens cap it has to be a Canon one as the ones from independent lenses doesn't appear to have the right pin pushing and lever pressing bits. I think most other lens fits work okay in the reverse position, although I seem to remember that with another system you have to press something down, but I can't remember which it is. Actually a m4/3 adapter may do this job in the reverse position and act like a lens hood. Although it may protrude too much as the working distance is quite short using this method.
http://photo.net/nature-photography-forum/00BLfV

To be honest I have not used these lens reversing techniques since well back in the old pre-digital times as I have good selection of modern macro lenses which focus close enough for me not to bother. As I'm thinking of getting a GH2 in the next few weeks I've been brushing up on my options for higher magnifications as I won't have any aperture control if I mount my Canon EF macro lenses on it.
 
The one things you have to look out for with FD lenses in the reverse position is that to be able to use the aperture ring a pin needs to be depressed on the lens mount. I'm rusty on the details but I quickly found this link that explains more. Canon did use to make an adapter for this, which was very much like an end of lens cap with no centre in it. Whilst I believe you can make one from an old end of lens cap it has to be a Canon one as the ones from independent lenses doesn't appear to have the right pin pushing and lever pressing bits. I think most other lens fits work okay in the reverse position, although I seem to remember that with another system you have to press something down, but I can't remember which it is. Actually a m4/3 adapter may do this job in the reverse position and act like a lens hood. Although it may protrude too much as the working distance is quite short using this method.
http://photo.net/nature-photography-forum/00BLfV

To be honest I have not used these lens reversing techniques since well back in the old pre-digital times as I have good selection of modern macro lenses which focus close enough for me not to bother. As I'm thinking of getting a GH2 in the next few weeks I've been brushing up on my options for higher magnifications as I won't have any aperture control if I mount my Canon EF macro lenses on it.

I just know that the FD 50/1.8 fits directly unto the 52mm filter thread reversing ring. So one reversing ring for 2 lens saves me $.

You are so knowledgable that you should open training classes to enrich other people's photography life.
 
You are right. The EOS fit lens has no aperture ring. I think I just stick with my current lens and filters and enjoy my easy life.
 
With a zoom lens reversed, your focal length will become fixed and you'll focus by zooming.

I reverse the 14-42mm lens and took shot today on some Boxelder Bug. Reversing at 42mm give magnification close to Raynox 250 on 100mm (on my Panasonic 100-300mm lens). Despite of MF, I get some pretty sharp pictures, to my eye its sharpness is like using Raynox on 100mm with 1-area-AF. Reversing at less than 42mm gives less desirable results because of the shallow DOF caused by greater magnification. Here is one of my best pictures:

http://www.siung.net/bird/tmp2/2011/insect/90121.boxelderbug.jpg

Enjoy!
 
Better magnification than only reversing the lens is: using a macro lens + reversed 50mm lens IN FRONT of the macro lens. You need a joint-ring for this operation but you will get macro pictures with a much higher magnifition than with only a reversed lens.

The EYE of a normal fly COVERS the whole screen with this method.

And don't forget to TURN ON CROP-MODE for either of the possibilities!

You can see my results here: http://www.videotreffpunkt.com/thread.php?threadid=12373&hilightuser=1874

The objects are: 10 Euro bill, 1 Euro coin, aluminium ruler (surface and 2 single millimeter markers)

Btw: I change the aperture via the lens itself as I use the Nikon 50mm in front of the 105mm macro...
 
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Better magnification than only reversing the lens is: using a macro lens + reversed 50mm lens IN FRONT of the macro lens. You need a joint-ring for this operation but you will get macro pictures with a much higher magnifition than with only a reversed lens.

The EYE of a normal fly COVERS the whole screen with this method.

And don't forget to TURN ON CROP-MODE for either of the possibilities!

You can see my results here: http://www.videotreffpunkt.com/thread.php?threadid=12373&hilightuser=1874

The objects are: 10 Euro bill, 1 Euro coin, aluminium ruler (surface and 2 single millimeter markers)

Btw: I change the aperture via the lens itself as I use the Nikon 50mm in front of the 105mm macro...

Nice pictures. I agree that with a reversing coupler joining 2 lens can give higher magnification. I don't have a macro lens. But I can use Canon FD 50mm f/1.8 + reversing my Panasonic 14-42mm lens. At 14mm, I can get 50/14 = 3.5x magnification. If I just reverse the 14-42mm lens, the magnification is > 0.9x at 42mm and is about 2.5x at 14mm.

Here is a video I took last evening:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAgbeigh39U

After visiting a colony of boxelder bugs (Boisea trivittatus), I found this poor guy in my car. So I keep it as my pet and model of photography for a while.
This video is taken with reversing Panasonic 14-42mm lens on my GH2. At 14mm, I think the magnification is about 2.5x. Then use the Extra Tele Convert mode to shoot this video in 1080i resolution. So it is about 7x, right?
 
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I just know that the FD 50/1.8 fits directly unto the 52mm filter thread reversing ring. So one reversing ring for 2 lens saves me $.

You are so knowledgable that you should open training classes to enrich other people's photography life.

I just got my Canon FD 50/1.8 lens. I tried to fit on my 52mm reverse ring for m43 but failed. The thickness of the thread is thinner. That means I may need a 52.5mm reverse ring. Why its thickness is different from my Panasonic 14-42mm lens?
 
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