AC130: DVRigPro HD
- Thread starter LarsN
- Start date
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Hi Lars
I have my own made from aluminium rods and it works perfectly!! However I didn't want to have to make the support rod so I bought it from CineCity...They make a similar system that is a fraction of the price!! I would look at this rig (which includes the support rod and belt) if you don't want to make your own rig. http://www.thecinecity.com/eshop/product.php?productid=473&cat=3&page=1 I prefer using the LCD with a loupe when the camera is on my shoulder as using the EVF pushes the camera too far forward so it's better balanced the way I have it and I have a much bigger viewfinder too!! Worth a look if you want the whole rig at US$210!!!
Chris
I have my own made from aluminium rods and it works perfectly!! However I didn't want to have to make the support rod so I bought it from CineCity...They make a similar system that is a fraction of the price!! I would look at this rig (which includes the support rod and belt) if you don't want to make your own rig. http://www.thecinecity.com/eshop/product.php?productid=473&cat=3&page=1 I prefer using the LCD with a loupe when the camera is on my shoulder as using the EVF pushes the camera too far forward so it's better balanced the way I have it and I have a much bigger viewfinder too!! Worth a look if you want the whole rig at US$210!!!
Chris
kwkeirstead
Well-known member
Pretty good price at $210.
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Hey Walter
I was considering getting that but instead I sent them an email asking if I could just buy the belt and sprung rod and they sent it to me for $50 (shipping incl) The rest I made up to suit my camera and me and (apart from the loupe) cost me probably less than $30!!
However it is custom made for my camera so if you need something top of the range the Multirig is still a quality rig that will fit any camera which is great!!! Some people just don't like getting into DIY and with my aluminium rig you do need to know how to cut tubing with a hacksaw, drill holes with a cordless drill and use a pop riveter!! In that case a ready built rig is far less stress!!! It's also a matter of hit and miss..my first rig was two 1/2" aluminium tubes with a shoulder-mount pad on the end and that made the pad sit too close to my neck so I had to make another with an offset pad... However it certainly works well now!! Don't get me wrong the DV Multirig isn't expensive for what you get!! It's very versatile, very high quality and totally foldable too..well worth the price!!
Chris
I was considering getting that but instead I sent them an email asking if I could just buy the belt and sprung rod and they sent it to me for $50 (shipping incl) The rest I made up to suit my camera and me and (apart from the loupe) cost me probably less than $30!!
However it is custom made for my camera so if you need something top of the range the Multirig is still a quality rig that will fit any camera which is great!!! Some people just don't like getting into DIY and with my aluminium rig you do need to know how to cut tubing with a hacksaw, drill holes with a cordless drill and use a pop riveter!! In that case a ready built rig is far less stress!!! It's also a matter of hit and miss..my first rig was two 1/2" aluminium tubes with a shoulder-mount pad on the end and that made the pad sit too close to my neck so I had to make another with an offset pad... However it certainly works well now!! Don't get me wrong the DV Multirig isn't expensive for what you get!! It's very versatile, very high quality and totally foldable too..well worth the price!!
Chris
I'll second what Chris says. The spring rod and belt are the best part of this system. I have the full DVrig, but only use the spring rod and belt clip. I put a Manfrotto quick release plate on the top of the spring rod so I can switch between my Manfrotto sticks or the spring rod easily.
The screw spring attaching the rod to the system breaks really fast, I had to modify the spring screw by replacing it with an articulating joint. Here is a picture of the modified section.
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
That does make a huge difference!! What I did was buy a mini-ballhead for mine as I couldn't find a universal joint small enough. With the bottom half of the ballhead removed and replaced by a little piece of tube, the brass end of the sprung rod snaps in easily and quickly and changeover is fast!! Thanks for sharing the tip about the spring!! I would imagine it wouldn't last too long!!!
If anyone wants just the rod system, look at the ENG Rig from DVTec instead of the Multirig...it's basically the rod, belt and a rail under the camera...VERY useful for long handheld shots!!
Chris
If anyone wants just the rod system, look at the ENG Rig from DVTec instead of the Multirig...it's basically the rod, belt and a rail under the camera...VERY useful for long handheld shots!!
Chris
kwkeirstead
Well-known member
thecinecity has a fascinating range of gadgets . . .
Re the following:
http://www.thecinecity.com/eshop/product.php?productid=5&cat=243&page=1
What are the relative advantages/disadvantages of the thecinecity shoulder mount versus the type of relatively inexpensive steadicam shown at the URL?
Re the following:
http://www.thecinecity.com/eshop/product.php?productid=5&cat=243&page=1
What are the relative advantages/disadvantages of the thecinecity shoulder mount versus the type of relatively inexpensive steadicam shown at the URL?
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Hi Walter
Have you ever used a stedicam??? I have a modded version of CineCity's Flycam 5500 (no longer made as I think there were too close in design to Tiffen) It works really well after some extra mods by myself BUT it's a pain to suit up and suit down PLUS you need a decent amount of space to work in too!! You are probably running around with close to 40lbs or more of gear on you and after 30 minutes you are sweating like a pig and also exhausted....(take two standard housebricks in each hand, hold them in front of you and run run around your yard for 10 minutes..that's what it's like!!!) I only use mine when I need to and have enough time too..you have to allow time to get in and out of the vest, set-up the dual arm and set-up the camera and sled before you shoot!!!
With my current shoulder-mounts I get rock-steady shots and I can grab a camera shoot for 5 minutes then put it down and attend to the 2nd camera and then repeat the cycle without any hassles.... the smaller Flycams just don't work right the model you show is a 5000 and is way too flimsy for your 160!!!..you need at least the 7000 model to get anywhere and unless you feel you have enough usage for the cost then rather leave it alone.... For the stuff you shoot it would look great circling the singers with one but that would be a 2nd operator's task. What you can do if you are looking for more creative shots is use a crane so you can easily come back to a "rest" position but then go creative when you have to.
Chris
Have you ever used a stedicam??? I have a modded version of CineCity's Flycam 5500 (no longer made as I think there were too close in design to Tiffen) It works really well after some extra mods by myself BUT it's a pain to suit up and suit down PLUS you need a decent amount of space to work in too!! You are probably running around with close to 40lbs or more of gear on you and after 30 minutes you are sweating like a pig and also exhausted....(take two standard housebricks in each hand, hold them in front of you and run run around your yard for 10 minutes..that's what it's like!!!) I only use mine when I need to and have enough time too..you have to allow time to get in and out of the vest, set-up the dual arm and set-up the camera and sled before you shoot!!!
With my current shoulder-mounts I get rock-steady shots and I can grab a camera shoot for 5 minutes then put it down and attend to the 2nd camera and then repeat the cycle without any hassles.... the smaller Flycams just don't work right the model you show is a 5000 and is way too flimsy for your 160!!!..you need at least the 7000 model to get anywhere and unless you feel you have enough usage for the cost then rather leave it alone.... For the stuff you shoot it would look great circling the singers with one but that would be a 2nd operator's task. What you can do if you are looking for more creative shots is use a crane so you can easily come back to a "rest" position but then go creative when you have to.
Chris
kwkeirstead
Well-known member
Thanks for the advice. I will go for the shoulder option for the time being.
kwkeirstead
Well-known member
I have the Gliders Grey as of yesterday.
The packaging was super solid, everything in the case seemed to be there, the instructions were adequate. The unit looks pretty good but I need a few days to try it/test it.
I understand what you are saying re the screw spring being a weak link..
Issues?
The "quick release" really isn't if you have to mount the camera on the side bar- I have asked the manufacturers what they have to say re this.
Unless I am doing something wrong, if you mount the camera on the side bar, the lock lever cannot rotate no matter which of the many baseplate holes you try.
So you end up having to 1. loosen the finger wheel that holds the base plate 2) rotate the base plate + camera +quick release left or right about 30 degrees, 3) now tighten the lock lever 4) re-align the camera+quick release +base plae and then 5) re-tighten the finger wheel. This would not work for wild animal recording. They would be in the next county before you could finish your setup.
Hopefully the manufacturerwill have some better protocol.
I suppose you need to loosen both knobs on the rod to make the camera "float"? (probably a stupid question).
I took a walk thru my garden, things went ok until i tripped over a rake. Fortunately not one of those where the handle rises up and hits you in the forehead (now camera/rig) - been there, done that.
Come to think of it a skit featuring that might make video of the year but it would end up being an expensive recording.
The packaging was super solid, everything in the case seemed to be there, the instructions were adequate. The unit looks pretty good but I need a few days to try it/test it.
I understand what you are saying re the screw spring being a weak link..
Issues?
The "quick release" really isn't if you have to mount the camera on the side bar- I have asked the manufacturers what they have to say re this.
Unless I am doing something wrong, if you mount the camera on the side bar, the lock lever cannot rotate no matter which of the many baseplate holes you try.
So you end up having to 1. loosen the finger wheel that holds the base plate 2) rotate the base plate + camera +quick release left or right about 30 degrees, 3) now tighten the lock lever 4) re-align the camera+quick release +base plae and then 5) re-tighten the finger wheel. This would not work for wild animal recording. They would be in the next county before you could finish your setup.
Hopefully the manufacturerwill have some better protocol.
I suppose you need to loosen both knobs on the rod to make the camera "float"? (probably a stupid question).
I took a walk thru my garden, things went ok until i tripped over a rake. Fortunately not one of those where the handle rises up and hits you in the forehead (now camera/rig) - been there, done that.
Come to think of it a skit featuring that might make video of the year but it would end up being an expensive recording.
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Hi Walter
If the levers are anything like my flycam they are spring loaded ...try grabbing the lever and you will find it pulls outwards so you can rotate the lever to a new position, tighten a bit more and then repeat the process...sorta like a ratchet system...it actually works quiet well!!
Yep for the spring rod to work I lossen both knurled nuts so the sections move freely...what I have done is fit a piece of scrap tubing (that the brass top of the rod slips into) into the tripod end of a mini ball head so the rod and rig can very twist up and have 360 degree flexibility....my sprung rods were also a wee bit sticky so I used some water paper to smooth them down so they slide inside each other effortlessly!!
Chris
If the levers are anything like my flycam they are spring loaded ...try grabbing the lever and you will find it pulls outwards so you can rotate the lever to a new position, tighten a bit more and then repeat the process...sorta like a ratchet system...it actually works quiet well!!
Yep for the spring rod to work I lossen both knurled nuts so the sections move freely...what I have done is fit a piece of scrap tubing (that the brass top of the rod slips into) into the tripod end of a mini ball head so the rod and rig can very twist up and have 360 degree flexibility....my sprung rods were also a wee bit sticky so I used some water paper to smooth them down so they slide inside each other effortlessly!!
Chris
kwkeirstead
Well-known member
Thank you Chris,
Amazing. I never would have figured out how to ratchet that lever. I notice the upper part of the now truly "quick release" apparatus (the part that screws into the camera) comes loose easily. I figure a thin cork washer might help here OR better still, too bad we cannot have one pin and two screws going into the camera but I suppose that is no guarantee that both will not come loose.
Same issue with the bottom (very solid) baseplate of the quick release apparatus. the thumbscrew gets loose and soon you have the camera wobbling at two points. Again a washer might help.
Trying to support five pounds with one screw (in two places) seems very silly to me BUT this is nothing to do with Gliders Grey - my Manfrotto fluid head has the same problem with its connection to the camera and to make matters worse, whereas the plate is long enough the only combo that seems to work is where the pin is where it is and the screw is a few millimeters away.
Makes you want to permanently glue a plate to the body of the camera but (sigh) there are no standards so I cannot think of doing that.
I am still drooling over Gap15's "articulating joint" - I expect he must work in the aerospace industry to make something that neat. The joint probably costs more to make that what we paid for the entire rig.
Amazing. I never would have figured out how to ratchet that lever. I notice the upper part of the now truly "quick release" apparatus (the part that screws into the camera) comes loose easily. I figure a thin cork washer might help here OR better still, too bad we cannot have one pin and two screws going into the camera but I suppose that is no guarantee that both will not come loose.
Same issue with the bottom (very solid) baseplate of the quick release apparatus. the thumbscrew gets loose and soon you have the camera wobbling at two points. Again a washer might help.
Trying to support five pounds with one screw (in two places) seems very silly to me BUT this is nothing to do with Gliders Grey - my Manfrotto fluid head has the same problem with its connection to the camera and to make matters worse, whereas the plate is long enough the only combo that seems to work is where the pin is where it is and the screw is a few millimeters away.
Makes you want to permanently glue a plate to the body of the camera but (sigh) there are no standards so I cannot think of doing that.
I am still drooling over Gap15's "articulating joint" - I expect he must work in the aerospace industry to make something that neat. The joint probably costs more to make that what we paid for the entire rig.