DIY IndieSlider...
- Thread starter ZazaCast
- Start date
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I think you're looking for a carriage brake? You can make the mod for about $5.00 (the link is in the first post): http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?145701-DIY-IndieSlider&p=1853241#post1853241
....or you can find instruction her too: http://www.zazaslider.com/instructions.html
I think this is a much better solution and doesn't require you to drill a bunch of holes along the rail....and you can lock tha carriage anywhere along it's length.
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
I had the opportunity to work with the Konova on the last shoot we did, and while it was VERY smooth, because the track and carriage are not very wide, if you tilt your camera up and down where your center of gravity moves a lot, it starts to flex the track. For a DSLR without anything hanging off of it you should be fine, but with the FS100, it was a bit of a problem I didn't like. Having also used the Kessler Pocket Dolly, it was superior in this regard.
I have an IGUS slider, and it works GREAT for my 7D. For my FS100, not so much. Because the length of the camera shifts the weight so much on tilts, the bearings start to bind a bit. Therefore if I need to tilt the camera, I'd have to constantly adjust the camera to keep the weight centered and this really wasn't practical for me. I tried to use some pledge to see if it helped but it didn't. Just beware of how your mass is distributed about your camera.
Still a GREAT affordable slider!
Mark Williams
Veteran
Unlike other Igus users I have had a difficult time achieving a consistent slide speed. I did a fair amount of research on DIY motorizing of Igus rails and came up with this design. Component information that I found here was very helpful
www.kokomonstrum.com/pages/igus_belt_driven_motorized_servo_slider_16.asp#
My version is not as elegant but it works fairly well. Since I have a shorter rail (28 inches) and didn’t want to loose any length on the slide, I opted to construct extensions on which to mount the motor, controller and idler pulley. The idler pulley is mounted in a slot so any slack in the timing belt can be tightened up. Since the AAA-4 battery holder I have has no way to mount it I affixed a cannibalized plastic D-cell battery holder which the AAA fits nicely inside. This was all built with hand tools but in retrospect having a drill press would had made fabrication easier and more accurate. A few other things I learned is to use rechargeable batteries as opposed to Alkaline which can sometimes have a slightly higher voltage which may burn out your servo. I also picked up a nice 40 inch padded gun case to protect/carry the slider. Here is my parts list and cost.
-Continuous rotation servo $44.99
http://servocity.com/html/hs-5485hb_servo.html
- Servo controller $49.00
http://servocity.com/html/dual_servo_driver.html
- Servo shaft extension $9.99 http://servocity.com/html/servo_shaft_attachment___250__.html
- AAA 4 battery tray $1.95
http://servocity.com/html/battery_trays.html
- Timing belt drive pulley $9.95
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1062/=gg49jo
- Timing Belt $9.61
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1060/=gg4aej
- Idler pulley $4.50
http://store.makerslide.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
3/16 x 2.5”x 12” Aluminum flat plate $3.72
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2236-8351-316-x-2-12-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx
- Miscellaneous bolts/nuts $2.50
- D cell battery holder $1.00
http://www.frys.com/product/2965355?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
- Padded gun case $34.00
http://www.blackhawk.com/product/Sportster-Tactical-Rifle-Case,1786,1549.htm
Total price excluding shipping and tax was $171.21
www.kokomonstrum.com/pages/igus_belt_driven_motorized_servo_slider_16.asp#
My version is not as elegant but it works fairly well. Since I have a shorter rail (28 inches) and didn’t want to loose any length on the slide, I opted to construct extensions on which to mount the motor, controller and idler pulley. The idler pulley is mounted in a slot so any slack in the timing belt can be tightened up. Since the AAA-4 battery holder I have has no way to mount it I affixed a cannibalized plastic D-cell battery holder which the AAA fits nicely inside. This was all built with hand tools but in retrospect having a drill press would had made fabrication easier and more accurate. A few other things I learned is to use rechargeable batteries as opposed to Alkaline which can sometimes have a slightly higher voltage which may burn out your servo. I also picked up a nice 40 inch padded gun case to protect/carry the slider. Here is my parts list and cost.
-Continuous rotation servo $44.99
http://servocity.com/html/hs-5485hb_servo.html
- Servo controller $49.00
http://servocity.com/html/dual_servo_driver.html
- Servo shaft extension $9.99 http://servocity.com/html/servo_shaft_attachment___250__.html
- AAA 4 battery tray $1.95
http://servocity.com/html/battery_trays.html
- Timing belt drive pulley $9.95
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1062/=gg49jo
- Timing Belt $9.61
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1060/=gg4aej
- Idler pulley $4.50
http://store.makerslide.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
3/16 x 2.5”x 12” Aluminum flat plate $3.72
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2236-8351-316-x-2-12-6061-t6511-aluminum-extruded.aspx
- Miscellaneous bolts/nuts $2.50
- D cell battery holder $1.00
http://www.frys.com/product/2965355?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
- Padded gun case $34.00
http://www.blackhawk.com/product/Sportster-Tactical-Rifle-Case,1786,1549.htm
Total price excluding shipping and tax was $171.21
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Mark Williams
Veteran
After talking to a tech from servocity it seems that the HS-5485HB servo, modified to continuous rotation, may be a better choice for a motorized slider. It is supposed to run smoother at variable speeds and is much more powerful. http://servocity.com/html/hs-5485hb_servo.html
Mark Williams
Veteran
Thanks sinapps. Your site was very helpful.
Last edited:
Mark Williams
Veteran
"After talking to a tech from servocity it seems that the HS-5485HB servo, modified to continuous rotation, may be a better choice for a motorized slider. It is supposed to run smoother at variable speeds and is much more powerful. http://servocity.com/html/hs-5485hb_servo.html"
Today I received the HS-5485HB servo mentioned above. It is sweet. You must get the "continuous" rotation modification for it to work properly in this application. I was able to get very slow speeds with no servo jitter at full telephoto. Since it is a digital servo you can also reprogram it with this http://servocity.com/html/hfp-25_servo_programmer.html
I have edited my earlier build post to reflect this.
Today I received the HS-5485HB servo mentioned above. It is sweet. You must get the "continuous" rotation modification for it to work properly in this application. I was able to get very slow speeds with no servo jitter at full telephoto. Since it is a digital servo you can also reprogram it with this http://servocity.com/html/hfp-25_servo_programmer.html
I have edited my earlier build post to reflect this.
Postmaster
Dark Side of the Camera
Operation Overload, pimp your Kessler PocketJib with an Igus slider
Frank
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
That's cool Frank... but what about turning your slider into a jib too!View attachment 49981View attachment 49982View attachment 49983
Operation Overload, pimp your Kessler PocketJib with an Igus slider
Frank
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...-slider-it-s-a-jib-It-s-both-at-the-same-time!
Much less to carry around... you can slide or jib. Goes together and comes apart in 1:20. (one knob & 3 thumbscrews) :thumbup:
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I've been playing around with building a hybrid carriage... here's the prototype:
It does have a brake thumbscrew (just not in this picture).
It's roughly the same size & shape as my Drylin carriage (100mm x 95mm).
There would be a single 3/8"-16 hole in the center (what you see here was for my testing).
Let me know what you think or if anyone's interested.... might be a nice add-on to your current slider.
Target price is $110.00 complete.
It does have a brake thumbscrew (just not in this picture).
It's roughly the same size & shape as my Drylin carriage (100mm x 95mm).
There would be a single 3/8"-16 hole in the center (what you see here was for my testing).
Let me know what you think or if anyone's interested.... might be a nice add-on to your current slider.
Target price is $110.00 complete.
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I've been playing around with building a hybrid carriage... here's the prototype:
It does have a brake thumbscrew (just not in this picture).
It's roughly the same size & shape as my Drylin carriage (100mm x 95mm).
There would be a single 3/8"-16 hole in the center (what you see here was for my testing).
Let me know what you think or if anyone's interested.... might be a nice add-on to your current slider.
Target price is $110.00 complete.
Hummm... no interest in the Hybrid carriage or jib...strange, everyone was all over this stuff not too long ago?
I like mine, although I still find myself using the original Drylin carriage most of the time. I think I'm just used to it's sliding motion & smoothness. :thumbsup:
Cheers!
Can we use the horizontal Hybrid bearing for 10-40 rail mod it and mount it vertically? According the data from the Igus web. it states that " This installation position is not possible for combination of WJRM-01-10 (Hybrid bearing) with rail WS-10/WS 10-40/WS-10-80 " Anybody know why?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Zephyrnoid
Veteran
Not sure if I have an answer for you but as I had the nutty idea of the canted and vertical slide method I can say that the hybrid bearing is too similar to the all friction bearing for it to matter much, except that I find the Hybrid to be a bumpier slide all around for some reason. As I see several others have adopted my passive friction brake discovery, that's where I recommend that people start in controlling sldes in any axis. I'm also working on an indirect system for controlling manual initiation of movement (push/pull) of the rigs as we all know that direct handling is prone to jerking. Haven't done anything with motors or pulleys yet.
Zephyrnoid
Veteran
+1 on the original bearings Zaza :thumbsup:
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I think what they are saying is that when you turn the Hybrid bearings (so the roller rides on top of the rail), it needs a custom carriage plate. Igus makes one now and it's really expensive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dX8wFX3V-M
One thing that gets me down in the linked video is how when you slide the whole camera rig back and forth (from about minute 2:29 or so), as you move away from the center where the slider is mounted to the tripod, the slider bends down as if made from wet spaghetti - watch the right side especially (toward the operator). It can't take the weight. I don't know if the problem is that the slider wasn't mounted tightly enough to the tripod so there is play, or if there is play in the tripod head itself, or if it's the slider itself that flexes. Either way, it's very, very depressing. Maybe the solution is to always have a tripod on either end of the slider, so it's a two tripod operation (or light stand or whatever) - kind of a downer if you can't just quickly mount the slider centrally on one tripod. I wonder if other sliders are more rigid, or it's a question of length. But flexing like that is not really acceptable.