DIY IndieSlider...

For travel, wouldn't it be better a 750mm length?

Or is 1000mm better suitable for the purpose as the sweet point length?
 
For travel, wouldn't it be better a 750mm length?

Or is 1000mm better suitable for the purpose as the sweet point length?

Yes... I carry both a 1000mm and 700mm piece of rail to shoots. 1000mm give you a good 3' of slide, the 700mm 2'.
 
I am going to order a 2 feet rail myself. I love the 1000mm but i want something that would fit in my backpack. I also went with the w1040 for a light setup (t2i). Here
igus-zazaslider%202.jpg

more photos here
 
Finally finished reading all the 2.5k posts over a few long nights!
Congratulations Zaza for having established a big following! You deserve all the credit!

I am just a budding video enthusiast who has recently acquired a fair bit of gears.
Like your offerings. I will probably get a set from you once I consolidate my usage of recent purchases and give up on the diy route.

Merry Christmas!
 
Finally finished reading all the 2.5k posts over a few long nights!
Congratulations Zaza for having established a big following! You deserve all the credit!

I am just a budding video enthusiast who has recently acquired a fair bit of gears.
Like your offerings. I will probably get a set from you once I consolidate my usage of recent purchases and give up on the diy route.

Merry Christmas!
Cheers Lifeline...and Happy Holidaze to you too.

I see you're new here, so welcome. This is a great community and there's a TON of great information & people here.
Hope to see you entering one of the fests.
 
Okay so I bought an extra glideblock from a friend but forgot to tell me he glued a 3/8 16 screw in the center. My tripod head is 1/4 20 thread. Do they make 3/8 to 1/4 adaptors? I believe they make them the other way around.
 
Has anyone been able to sucessfully mount a jib arm to the slider yet? I got a 6 foot rail with 2 tripods and an 8 foot crane. Im going to "attempt" to attach the crane to the tripod head on the gliding block. Since there is weight on the back of the crane to counter-balance, hopefully this will help out with the gliding of the block while booming up or down.
 
Has anyone been able to sucessfully mount a jib arm to the slider yet? I got a 6 foot rail with 2 tripods and an 8 foot crane. Im going to "attempt" to attach the crane to the tripod head on the gliding block. Since there is weight on the back of the crane to counter-balance, hopefully this will help out with the gliding of the block while booming up or down.

Let us know how this goes... be careful. Personally, I use my crane (with dolly wheels & track) when I need a shot like that.
A tool for every job!
 
Seriously, it was a lot of reading, but well worth it. I feel like I've built seventeen of these already!

I totally agree! I just finished reading all 2500+ posts over the last couple weeks. I've learned SO much from everyone's experimentation . . . and it feels like I've already built one of these sliders! I really appreciate all the great information here.

I just placed my order with Igus:
WS-16-60S rail without holes in 700mm length (seems the best for portability, and will fit nicely in my tripod bag)
WW-16-60-10 100mm carriage

I also ordered the Manfrotto bowl adapters (520BALL and 325N) so I can mount the slider between the legs and head of my Sachtler FSB6 tripod with 75mm bowl. I'm looking forward to searching for all the other bolts and taps I need at Home Depot this weekend. I've never tapped any holes before, so I'm happy for the chance to learn something new. :)

Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences . . . especially Zaza for starting and maintaining this whole thread. After I get everything up and running, I just may have to pay you a visit for some feet . . .
 
Has anyone yet successfully joined two pieces of rail end-to-end? I've seen this question come up a number of times in this thread, but I don't think there was a definitive answer. Has anyone tried this and either succeeded or failed?

Ideally I'd like to end up with both a 700mm rail (for portability) and a 1000mm rail, PLUS a way to join them both together for a long 1700mm rail.

In theory this should be doable, by inserting dowels/rods/bolts between the ends and chamfering (beveling) the edges of the rail. But has anyone tried to do this yet? I'd like to figure out this strategy before I tap the ends for stoppers/feet.

Thanks!
 
Has anyone yet successfully joined two pieces of rail end-to-end? I've seen this question come up a number of times in this thread, but I don't think there was a definitive answer. Has anyone tried this and either succeeded or failed?

Ideally I'd like to end up with both a 700mm rail (for portability) and a 1000mm rail, PLUS a way to join them both together for a long 1700mm rail.

In theory this should be doable, by inserting dowels/rods/bolts between the ends and chamfering (beveling) the edges of the rail. But has anyone tried to do this yet? I'd like to figure out this strategy before I tap the ends for stoppers/feet.

Thanks!
This has been brought up MANY times (going back a few years)...simple answer...NO. But the bigger question is...why?
The whole idea of a slider is a nice, small, portable, easy to set-up tool that allows for some creative camera movement.
If you're looking to slide...or dolly for over 3 feet....I'd use a dolly. Again, a tool for every job...a slider isn't the end-all...it won't do everything (just most of it).

If you HAVE to do it, you're on the right track, but you will always get a visible 'bump' when you cross the joint. I've tried every way you mentioned above with no luck.

Hope that helps! Best of luck & please post if successful.

Happy New Year....and WOW...over 400,000 views...man, you'd think this would be a sticky thread?
Cheers!
 
Halloooo anf happy new year mates! zAZA i guess u r waiting to use the zazaslider with the new AF100 right? Or did u already tried it?
Question: Any ideas on any kind of motor. wheel to move the carriage?
It's long time i wasn't surfing here so...maybe i missed something!
Happy 2k11 guys!
 
Halloooo anf happy new year mates! zAZA i guess u r waiting to use the zazaslider with the new AF100 right? Or did u already tried it?
Question: Any ideas on any kind of motor. wheel to move the carriage?
It's long time i wasn't surfing here so...maybe i missed something!
Happy 2k11 guys!
Happy New Year to you too!
My AF100 is due Tuesday...and yes, I'll be sliding it.

There are a bunch of different methods out there for adding a motor or crank, just do a search.
I've personally never had a problem sliding smoothly by hand, but I guess some do.
 
Thanks Zaza. I agree that it's not ideal to join two sections together, but it might be easier to set up a long slider than a complete dolly rig. And if I can use my existing slider rather than renting a dolly, it might make sense. Of course it's not an end-all for every shoot.

I was just wondering if it was possible to join the track. Since your experience confirms it can't be done without a bump at the seam, it's probably not worth doing.

Brian
 
When I get some free time and another length of track, I plan on trying to extend it. The engineer in me says it is possible and easy to do once a few things are taken care of.

My feeling is that if the ends of the two tracks taper in slightly and in an amount of space that is less than the length of one bearing, that if the tracks are aligned well from something in the ends across the two, and between them underneath, there is no reason a smooth transition cannot occur. I've seen this done in other projects and it does allow you to spread out a tiny mismatch over a distance that makes in imperceptible.

Not just to find some free time! :)
 
Hello everybody!

I've read a lot about all of thoses sliders and now I'm just wondering which model I should buy on amazon!

I was really happy going with this one ( http://www.amazon.com/DryLin®-Linea...DIT8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1294186386&sr=8-3) because it's ready to go, already drilled etc...

But this one has an hand-clamp... (http://www.amazon.com/DryLin®-Linea...6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1294186464&sr=1-6)

I was just wondering because somewhere I saw someone say that it was better to go with the version that didn't give the possibility to play with the "bearings" to just go with the regular ones and that would be better!

Is is true? I would rather buy the already drilled one if it's working well and add an hand-clamp by myself if needed...than to receive it and to go to the shop to get it drilled.

What are you guys thinking ;0)?

Thanks a lot
 
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