DIY IndieSlider...

zaza - Many *thanks* for this DIY guide!!!!!!!

Classic! Someone needs to put together a "how to drill and tap" tutorial.. ;-)

I just called to order my rails and they are still back ordered, but they have some of the "none-drilled" rails available, so I went with those instead. I have a drill press, so it's all good.

Looking forward to slide, slide, slippy, sliding soon!
 
DCERVENKA said:
zaza - Many *thanks* for this DIY guide!!!!!!!

Classic! Someone needs to put together a "how to drill and tap" tutorial.. ;-)

I just called to order my rails and they are still back ordered, but they have some of the "none-drilled" rails available, so I went with those instead. I have a drill press, so it's all good.

Looking forward to slide, slide, slippy, sliding soon!
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Glad you like it...enjoy. As far as the tapping tutorial, just search YouTube, there are a bunch up there. Be sure to checkout the ZazaSlider Feet! :happy:
 
Sil3ntp8nd8 said:
I never drilled nor tapped any holes in my life. I screwed up the first time already :(
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Me neither! This was a first time. I just did a little googling to see what to do and followed Zaza's instructions. Anything thicker than the carriage I'd probably want to use a drill press for, but I hand did it and it worked well!
 
Sil3ntp8nd8 said:
I never drilled nor tapped any holes in my life. I screwed up the first time already :(
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give it another try....i know...the first few turns feel like nothing...next few turns feel like you're mangling something...and after a while, you feel like you're onto something...but it requires a slight bit of strength! I just described sex...you can manage that, right? Tap a hole dude...it's no biggie, unless you like that sorta thing.
 
Thanks Zaza!! Amazing!

Well, I'm planning to get a 10-40, it's not so strong as the 10-60, but I will use with the 5dMKII with rods and a Mattebox... I'm thinking on a 1400mm rail. Do you think it can hold on a single tripod firmly?
 
DangerzoneRJ said:
Thanks Zaza!! Amazing!

Well, I'm planning to get a 10-40, it's not so strong as the 10-60, but I will use with the 5dMKII with rods and a Mattebox... I'm thinking on a 1400mm rail. Do you think it can hold on a single tripod firmly?
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10-40 should work on a single tripod... but be sure to sandbag the legs!:happy:
 
Sorry I read this so late. Been buried lately. Will edit out e-mails. Where'd my manners go?!
tbanucci said:
Zephyrnoid, you should probably edit out Greg Bruno's email address. Kind of a no-no to post email on the web, especially of someone else unless you have a huge thing against them. He could get on a spambot list now as well as a lot of flaming from uneducated users in here (not that there are any!).

Also @ Zaza, I have loved this DIY from the beginning and have been helping other people in my video association create these. Can you add to the top post, post #1209: (http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=1846264&postcount=1209) regarding the WD-40 for tapping the end holes for the end-stop solution? This helped a lot.

Additionally, you should mention that instead of going ahead and tapping a 3/8 hole in the center, you could also tap a 1/4" 20 in the center if you wanted to attach a mounting plate instead for a quick release to your tripod head, rather than screwing directly to the tripod itself.

I recently found an old photographer head by Bogen that will allow me to adjust the rails to 90-degrees vertical, as well as a head for the slider carriage that will level out the camera to 90-degrees it's norm (perpendicular to the ground). Will take some shots to show it off soon....
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I see some newbie machinists need a hand.
My tips on taping:
1) Go slow, deliberate and straight! mount your tap in a drill press and turn the chuck by hand or with a vicegrip. Once you become good at the 'touch' then you can tap freehand without failing.
2) grease your tap threads with silicone, lithium grease or vaseline if it's all you've got.
3) be sure your pilot hole is the correct diameter for the tap that you've using. Too large and you will get partial threading, too small and you will have an impossible time getting through
4) champfer in a slight countersink before you start taping.
5) The biggest tip of all. Reverse your turn for every 1/2 turn of the tap to clear the threads
6) Use a bench vise or other device to hold your work for easier freehand taping.
7) Use quality taps and tap wrenches. Stuff from Harbour Freight or other generic imports are other subpar
 
Zephyrnoid said:
I see some newbie machinists need a hand.
My tips on taping:
1) Go slow, deliberate and straight! mount your tap in a drill press and turn the chuck by hand or with a vicegrip. Once you become good at the 'touch' then you can tap freehand without failing.
2) grease your tap threads with silicone, lithium grease or vaseline if it's all you've got.
3) be sure your pilot hole is the correct diameter for the tap that you've using. Too large and you will get partial threading, too small and you will have an impossible time getting through
4) champfer in a slight countersink before you start taping.
5) The biggest tip of all. Reverse your turn for every 1/2 turn of the tap to clear the threads
6) Use a bench vise or other device to hold your work for easier freehand taping.
7) Use quality taps and tap wrenches. Stuff from Harbour Freight or other generic imports are other subpar
Click to expand...
this should be added to Zaza's first post. My slider is a done deal, as i am good with tools, but this is a great simple breakdown of what is simple to us, but not so for the rest. :thumbsup:
 
Ok I've finally managed to put one of these babies together myself.
It's a 150cm rail with a larger cart for more stability and also I've got room to mount a monitor if I should get the desire.

For legs I'm using 10 dollar bike stands for now until I can get a better tripod. Works fine although it's a bit unstable since they're only fastened by one screw each instead of two. But it's okay for that money. You see the result for yourselves in the video.

I bought the IGUS from colly.se in Sweden, and the whole thing probably cost something like 3000 SEK (420 USD). That's including the locking mechanism.




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Current IGUS Inventory/Back order

Current IGUS Inventory/Back order

I just called IGUS and they are quoting a 6 week delivery time for the standard 16-60 rail. The rep said that they are waiting on a shipment from Germany and that there are a lot of back orders. They are also now out of 10-40 (with or without holes).

The rep called someone (the warehouse maybe) and as of today they do have 600mm left of the 16-60 rail without holes. Maybe that can help someone but it is too short for my needs.

So I ordered WS 10-80 and the compatible 100mm long carriage sled WW-10-80-10 which they do have in stock. The total was ~$130+shipping. In addition to being a bit less expensive and half a kilo lighter per meter than 16-60 this version is actually *available*. Also in the plus column the 10-80 rail might arguably be a bit more rigid in length and the sled more stable in width. However, it should be noted that the 10-40 and 10-80 rails do not have holes in the ends. You will need to drill these yourself or use another stopping mechanism. Also note that the 80 mm widths have two rows of holes down the middle instead of one row.

All in all I probably still would have preferred the 16-60 version if only because it has been battle tested by so many but when considering the 6 week delay switching to 10-80 seems worth it.

I will report when I receive the parts and get them assembled however I've never seen a 16-60 version so I won't be able to offer a comparison.
 
@MarkRand - I found the following image at http://canon-hf100.blogspot.com/ that shows the different rails sizes and widths.

My guess is that the first # (10, 16, 20) is the rail/tube size in mm AND the second # (40, 60, 80) is the width between the rails.

I hope that helps..


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... ends up I have a couple extra rail pieces of the WS-16-60 sort. Shoot me an email if you need one quick-like. (dave@savedeth.com)
 
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