DIY IndieSlider...

I see a drill press on sale at Home Depot, it's $149 down to $89, I may just buy this to do the drilling.

anyone know if I can use the drill press to tap the hole ? or would this be the wrong way to go.

I'm still on the fence about the tapping.

The drill press won't help on the ends of the rail however, - Not sure how to get a 1000 mm piece of rail under a drill press.... isn't possible.

ah well, maybe some responses will come on, on the advantages to tapping vs not tapping.

Dave.
 
I see a drill press on sale at Home Depot, it's $149 down to $89, I may just buy this to do the drilling.

anyone know if I can use the drill press to tap the hole ? or would this be the wrong way to go.

I'm still on the fence about the tapping.

The drill press won't help on the ends of the rail however, - Not sure how to get a 1000 mm piece of rail under a drill press.... isn't possible.

ah well, maybe some responses will come on, on the advantages to tapping vs not tapping.

Dave.

IMHO you're putting WAY too much thought into this. It's really not a big deal to drill and tap a hole. Hundreds of us have done it with complete success... all over the world....have a little faith! If you can turn a door knob, you can tap a hole.

You said you were tight on funds...so why would you buy a drill press to drill a couple holes? You said you don't know if you want to tap the carriage hole? You don't have to...it's up to you. Just follow the instructions in the first post and you'll be shooting in 20 minutes instead of waffling back & forth on how to build it.:thumbsup:

It couldn't be easier!
 
Yes, crazy to buy the press for an hour, I was thinking that is indeed dumb, but I do believe they can do it for me, maybe for $10.

Yes, too much thought going into it, I'm leaving soon to go there and see the tap, and drill. I guess I'm just scared to drill into the $65 carriage.

When I finish the project I'll post a picture or 4.

Thanks for responding, I appreciate it Joe.


IMHO you're putting WAY too much thought into this. It's really not a big deal to drill and tap a hole. Hundreds of us have done it with complete success... all over the world....have a little faith! If you can turn a door knob, you can tap a hole.

You said you were tight on funds...so why would you buy a drill press to drill a couple holes? You said you don't know if you want to tap the carriage hole? You don't have to...it's up to you. Just follow the instructions in the first post and you'll be shooting in 20 minutes instead of waffling back & forth on how to build it.:thumbsup:

It couldn't be easier!
 
Hi Joe,

one last question before I leave....

that bolt that goes into the carriage, all I need to do
is look for a 3/8" bolt ? ... do I need any specific info
on the thread count on that bolt ?


thanks


Hi guys,
So I'm going to Home Depot today,

I'll get the following:

3/8" - 16 thread tap and handle set
5/16 metal drill
3/8" hex head bolt
 
To tap or not to tap the hole...

I didn't tap the hole in my carriage and I find it really difficult if I want to remove the tripod head from the carriage for transport as the bolt falls through... once the carriage is on the rail and aligned, you don't really want to take it off. The advantage is, it took about 10 minutes less time opposed to tapping the hole and putting a bolt in the carriage with loctite.

Do you need a drill press? No. Once you start tapping the hole you can make it straight with the tap... it doesn't have to be perfect, it will work and mount well.

Should you use a tap with a drill press? Not recommended. You should tap the hole slowly with a drop of oil (any kind). I usually go in about half a turn with the tap, then back it out... rinse and repeat. You don't want to break the tap or the threads on it.

For the ends of the rail I used a smaller tap and different size bolts so I wouldn't have to drill any holes.

I recommend drilling and tapping new holes on either side and in the middle of the rail to mount quick release plates or tripods. The holes that pre-exist on the bottom of the rail don't allow but 2-3 threads... it works, but you could make it much more robust with a new hole to give you more threads.

Here is the tap set I used:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45766


If you are this uncertain you should probably just buy a pre-built slider from glidetrack, dp slider, or kessler as they all make good products. OR take it somewhere and have someone unless drill and tap holes for you.
 
I tapped the center hole, and the end holes, by hand.

Just keep the tap parallel to the holes, don't let it get crooked at an angle, and go slow and easy. Mine took a little more effort on the end holes, I guess because the metal's thicker?

I just finished the feet, now I need some pix and vid!
icon10.gif
 
Recently finished my slider and have taken a couple of quick pics for reference. I opted not to tap the carriage, and instead used a 3/8" drill and 3/8" bolt to slide into the tripod head, or quick release adapter. The only place on the rail I tapped a 3/8" thread was at one of the ends of the rail to support counterweights for jib operation.

1266872645.jpg

Slider with quick release adapter mounted to carriage

1266872686.jpg

Manfrotto quick release adapter ($50 including camera plate)

1266872815.jpg

5/16" zinc stove bolt with zinc fender washer and nut attaching camera plate

1266872939.jpg

Clearance between carriage bolt and 5/16" camera plate bolt

1266872889.jpg

Dolly operation on left, and jib operation on right

1266873001.jpg

Side view showing tripod head clearance between two camera plates

1266873044.jpg

Closer shot of the above image

1266873292.jpg

Slider in jib mode with vinten pedestal counterweights

1266873351.jpg

Close up of vinten pedestal counterweights
 
I will ultimately end up adding a screw brake to each side of the carriage eventually, but since my hands are on the carriage assembly when using it as a jib, I haven't needed to rush and make that mod.
 
Hi guys,

are we supposed to drill the ends ( where the end caps go on ? )

I got my carriage threaded today, and bought the hex screws ( 3/8" by 1" , 16 thread ) but when I put them up against the end are too large for the hole, even threaded I'm thinking.

so I'm guessing we drill these holes out with the same drill we used for the carriage and THEN thread ?

ok thanks for any help.

Dave.
 
Hi guys,

are we supposed to drill the ends ( where the end caps go on ? )

I got my carriage threaded today, and bought the hex screws ( 3/8" by 1" , 16 thread ) but when I put them up against the end are too large for the hole, even threaded I'm thinking.

so I'm guessing we drill these holes out with the same drill we used for the carriage and THEN thread ?

ok thanks for any help.

Dave.

The holes in the end of the rail are 5/16"...that's the exact size hole you would drill to tap a 3/8"-16 thread. (Check to see if the 5/16" bit slides in the hole.)

So... all you have to do is tap the ends of the rail. You want to tap in about an inch or so and it a little harder going then the carriage. Remember, when tapping, it half a turn, then back it out....a little more then half a turn, back it out. Slow & steady (it is some work). Tap oil or a little WD40 on the tap (try not to get it on the rail) will help.

I put a tutorial on the new www.zazaslider.com site (under the instructions button)...check it out, might help. I will add video tutorials soon too.
 
ah perfect Joe, thanks for the help.

I'll try that tomorrow. I will really heed those instructions too, about the tapping. That's a lot of tapping to do. I must have WD40 somewhere, if not I'm going to buy some just for that job.

Good info on the website now.

sad thing - my Home Depot did NOT have those white spacers.. I looked for a good 20 minutes to find them, they had tons of different tiny ones, but nothing remotely resembling the ones everyone has found. I'll have to try another Home Depot.

thanks again.

Dave


The holes in the end of the rail are 5/16"...that's the exact size hole you would drill to tap a 3/8"-16 thread. (Check to see if the 5/16" bit slides in the hole.)

So... all you have to do is tap the ends of the rail. You want to tap in about an inch or so and it a little harder going then the carriage. Remember, when tapping, it half a turn, then back it out....a little more then half a turn, back it out. Slow & steady (it is some work). Tap oil or a little WD40 on the tap (try not to get it on the rail) will help.

I put a tutorial on the new www.zazaslider.com site (under the instructions button)...check it out, might help. I will add video tutorials soon too.
 
ah perfect Joe, thanks for the help.

I'll try that tomorrow. I will really heed those instructions too, about the tapping. That's a lot of tapping to do. I must have WD40 somewhere, if not I'm going to buy some just for that job.

Good info on the website now.

sad thing - my Home Depot did NOT have those white spacers.. I looked for a good 20 minutes to find them, they had tons of different tiny ones, but nothing remotely resembling the ones everyone has found. I'll have to try another Home Depot.

thanks again.

Dave

Take it slow & easy and you'll be fine.

Did you ask one of the helpful associates at Home Depot? :grin: They are in the fastner aisle in the slide-out drawers, not hanging with all the other stuff.
Ask, I've found them in a few different Home Depot's. You could have tem look up the UPC.
 
Hi Joe,

one last question before I leave....

that bolt that goes into the carriage, all I need to do
is look for a 3/8" bolt ? ... do I need any specific info
on the thread count on that bolt ?


thanks

Go to HOME DEPOT and gat a 3/8 1" long hax bolt, three 3/8 washers and 1 3/8 cut pressure washer. Take bolt, put in 1 washer, place cut pressure washer on top, then 2 more washers on top of the pressure washer. Screw bolt wit washers through bottom of carriage and tighten with a wrench. Will be super solid. the bolt and washers are 18 cents each at home depot
 
YOu guys are over-thinking the whole tapping part. I paced my tap into the drill and went all out trigger happy. I tapped the center hole quite rough and it stripper the first day but the tap is too weak for the pre-drilled holes and i wouldn't trust it. I drilled another hole next to the center hole and tapped that. Now the whole Hax bolt from tripod goes into it and its much sturdier. Keep in mind that I drilled and tapped that sucker with a power drill without any straight leveling and it came out fine.

Drill away, keep it slow. if you mess it up just drill another hole.
 
i want to order this but it's so confusing when i goes to igus website i don't know wat to order. and to ZAZA if i make one of this and can upgrade to the roller bearing later on??? i want to have the roller bearing please let me know
 
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