DIY IndieSlider...

I love seeing you guys run with this one....GREAT job. I can't wait to see some footage.
Hats off to 'CineGang' really nice clean build. Nice end caps.

'Duke', you got a good thing going there too! Do you have a really heavy rig? I don't know if you need the extra end support.... I put a DVX100b with RR M2, rod system, Nikon lenses and a FF and have no problem sliding end to end with no flex what-so-ever. BUT, then again, I screw mine right to the tripod, not onto a head (which is really cool cause you can use it like a mini-jib!).
 
I don't have a particularly heavy rig, an XH-A1 with a Brevis, rails and monitor, but I wanted to be able to do some diagonal movements too.

The holes in the rail are 3/8" while the studs are 1/4" and the tripod head swivels. I can angle the track about 25 degrees and still have everything stable. Imagine something like a mother and daughter holding hands, where you go sidewise and drop from the mother's face to the daughter's face.

I wanted to create the additional flexibility. For bigger movements I have a 16' crane that reduces to 12' or 8'. But without this thread I wouldn't have had this equipment. I think it gives a more 3D feel when there are multiple foreground and background objects. Thanks.

Duke
 
ZazaCast said:
I love seeing you guys run with this one....GREAT job. I can't wait to see some footage.
Hats off to 'CineGang' really nice clean build. Nice end caps.
Click to expand...

Thanks Zaza. This is the first time I ever tapped threads and I thought, why not make threads for end caps. Glad you noticed my only creative addition but I'm really proud of this contraption. Anyway, I'm going to shoot a music video with my 8 year old kid this weekend and will share what I come up with.
Ronnie
 
CineGang said:
Thanks Zaza. This is the first time I ever tapped threads and I thought, why not make threads for end caps. Glad you noticed my only creative addition but I'm really proud of this contraption. Anyway, I'm going to shoot a music video with my 8 year old kid this weekend and will share what I come up with.
Ronnie
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What did you use for the little white endcaps? What are those things...and where did you get them? It also looks like you used an allen head bolt...correct? Is it the same 3/8" thread tap? Do tell... in detail.

Inquiring minds want to know!:thumbsup:
 
ZazaCast said:
What did you use for the little white endcaps? What are those things...and where did you get them? It also looks like you used an allen head bolt...correct? Is it the same 3/8" thread tap? Do tell... in detail.
Inquiring minds want to know!:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Wow, I'm flattered with the small attention. Since the holes at the end already matched the drill bit we used - 5/16 I believe - what the heck, I used the same 3/8" thread tap to do the ends. I then went to home depot and in the hardware section, they have special bolts in trays. I got those allen head bolts there - 3/8" 16. I like it because it matches the allen head bolts on the carriage. Plus, they have grips so if you just hand tighten, you can twist it off also. The washers were thick plastic washers that fit like a glove with the bolts. They act as my stoppers for the carriage. I love that I can use the whole length of the rail. The rest are parts I got through amazon to mount the rail using a 75mm bowl adapter. For the carriage, I used a 75-100 bowl adapter that screws on the 3/8 thread of the carriage to fit a couple of fluid heads I have. This thing is so solid. Like you Zaza, I have a feeling it will be on my tripod most of the time. I can't wait for Saturday to try this out with my kid.
Ronnie
 
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nice Ronnie! i'm going to look for those plastic washers tomorrow...i did the same thing...tapped the ends with a 3/8-16, but instead of an allen bolt, i chose a hex...same effect, but i used a basic thin metal washer. i like the plastic better for some reason. great work, and thanks for the details on your mounting solutions!
 
Oeps.... your right :-)
I was mislead by the picture...looks much longer!
I wanted it to be 1000 mm so I did see 1000mm.

Their max travelrange is 300mm and thats stil to short...too bad
 
CineGang said:
Wow, I'm flattered with the small attention. Since the holes at the end already matched the drill bit we used - 5/16 I believe - what the heck, I used the same 3/8" thread tap to do the ends. I then went to home depot and in the hardware section, they have special bolts in trays. I got those allen head bolts there - 3/8" 16. I like it because it matches the allen head bolts on the carriage. Plus, they have grips so if you just hand tighten, you can twist it off also. The washers were thick plastic washers that fit like a glove with the bolts. They act as my stoppers for the carriage. I love that I can use the whole length of the rail. The rest are parts I got through amazon to mount the rail using a 75mm bowl adapter. For the carriage, I used a 75-100 bowl adapter that screws on the 3/8 thread of the carriage to fit a couple of fluid heads I have. 1 75mm Sachtler for the 5DMKII and 100mm Miller for the Red One (Not sure yet if I will mount the Red on this though). This thing is so solid. Like you Zaza, I have a feeling it will be on my tripod most of the time. I can't wait for Saturday to try this out with my kid.
Ronnie
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Thanks for sharing! Like Skinny, I'm going to head over to Home Depot and find this stuff. I think it's the cleanest, nicest looking solution for end stops. I hardly ever use the blocks, as this thing is ALWAYS on my tripod these days. Even if you're not sliding a shot, it allows you to get your framing right without having to move the tripod. You can also slide it right to the end and pan the camera straight down over your subject! A really handy piece.

I still want to experiment with tapping the second hole from the end, mounting it on a fluid head, get some of the locking bearing guides igus offers...and using one hand to control the head, the other as a counter weight...see if it can act as a mini-jib! :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
 
I'm all smiles to have any sort of influence even just for a plastic washer. BTW, I also saw it in Lowes, so it must be a common thing. Make sure you look in the special "shelf" stuff. There are several sizes. I went for the one that fits the 3/8 bolt perfectly. I like that it's plastic too. It's not like the metal to metal will cause a spark or anything. LOL! I like Zaza's point of being able to re-frame by sliding here and there rather than moving the tripod.

Question: Do you guys see a need for something to lock the carriage in place so we can control when it is slideable? I was just thinking about it to see if it's something we should consider in the evolution. It could even be just another bolt on the carriage that screws down and catches another hole in the rail to lock it in place. What do you guys think?

Ronnie
 
CineGang said:
Question: Do you guys see a need for something to lock the carriage in place so we can control when it is slideable? I was just thinking about it to see if it's something we should consider in the evolution. It could even be just another bolt on the carriage that screws down and catches another hole in the rail to lock it in place. What do you guys think?

Ronnie
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igus now makes a bearing guide (the things on the bottom of the carriage that hold the bearings) that has an adjustable 'brake' on it. It's basically a screw that squeezes the bearing against the rail...to slow it, or stop it completely. I was thinking of getting one to check it out.

It's called "turn-to-fit",adjustable linear guide. Video here, second one down titled, "DryLin® W linear guide with adjustable clearance "
http://www.igus.com/ApplicationCorner/DL_videos.asp
 
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Thanks for this. So - this would replace 1 of the 4 bearing modules? Would you only replace 1? The only thing I don't like is that we are squeezing the bearing which by definition should still try to slide - and if it doesn't, what wear is it causing. Also, that it requires a tool to adjust but I suppose we can be creative and put a knob there. I was thinking more of a bolt with knob that goes through the rail underneath that catches a thread on the carriage to lock it from movement. But I take it - it would be nice to have this feature - to avoid having a different setup by having to remove the slider when not needed. For now, I will enjoy trying it out this weekend. Thanks again.
Ronnie
 
skinny! said:
nice Ronnie! i'm going to look for those plastic washers tomorrow...i did the same thing...tapped the ends with a 3/8-16, but instead of an allen bolt, i chose a hex...same effect, but i used a basic thin metal washer. i like the plastic better for some reason. great work, and thanks for the details on your mounting solutions!
Click to expand...

Just went and got the parts....the plastic things are nylon spacers...and are found in the drawers right along with the bolts.

Here are the part numbers of the stuff I got at Home Depot:
(4) Cap Screw Socket 3/8" x 1 1/2" UPC# 30699 72218 - $3.25 each
(4) Spacer 3/8" long/nylon UPC# 30699 87368 - $.58 each

Total $16.55

Thanks to "CineGang" for this great end-stop solution!

(this information has been added to the first post)
 
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JOplinger said:
img02961.jpg


Still sticky in the center, not sure what's going on. Need to tighten the carriage bolts, and maybe mount it via light stands or tripods.
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Here's what I'm doing to fix that issue and why.

The big culprit in DyLin 'binding' turns out not to be poor tracking of the bearings but rather a 'braking' effect that results from pressure coming from the UNDERSIDES of the bearings on the UNDERSIDES of the rails. Yes. Shocking but true. Eventually, we'll have to come up with a top only riding bearing, very careful balancing and 100% hands on manipulation. In the meantime, I figured out some fixes .
1) I place a small shot bag ( any counterweight would work) on the pan handle to balance PRESSURE that's being exerted by the typically forward leaning rig. It really helps measurably- as in much fewer ruined shots from binding. centering weight dead in the middle of the carriage would be the same.
2) I push my carriage AT THE CARRIAGE, not by holding the camera. The slightest torque exerted by pushing above the axis of motion, will contribute to binding
3) I added friction brakes so as to deliberately slow the motion of the carriage, therefore causing me to push with more force, reducing the potential of jerking.:Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
 
ZazaCast said:
If you track him down, please post...I'd be interested in this! :beer:
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Here ya go Zaza! Jog his memory by saying.

"We heard you developed a step-motion computer controlled application in the 80's for cell animation. We need your help with something."

He's a genius actually- software and otherwise. He's not in that career any longer, but may still be willing to help out.
Bill Ferster
http://www.stagetools.com/bill/index.htm
 
Zephyrnoid said:
Here ya go Zaza! Jog his memory by saying.

"We heard you developed a step-motion computer controlled application in the 80's for cell animation. We need your help with something."

He's a genius actually- software and otherwise. He's not in that career any longer, but may still be willing to help out.
Bill Ferster
http://www.stagetools.com/bill/index.htm
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Cool! Thanks so much for the info Zeph. I work with a lot of educational publishers, their authors and subject matter experts. Sounds like he's the same deal. I'll get in touch with him.
 
ZazaCast said:
Cool! Thanks so much for the info Zeph. I work with a lot of educational publishers, their authors and subject matter experts. Sounds like he's the same deal. I'll get in touch with him.
Click to expand...
Bill's a real success story. Education is now just his 'avocation' . After he invented the CameraMan ( hacked Radio Shack computers- re-branded and resold) made his million on that and then went on to found West End Films, and then invented the first All purpose I/O converter box. Don't let his professorial candor fool you.
 
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