DIY IndieSlider...

Spoke with the local IGUS supplier in Hong Kong. He said he'd have to order the product in, and usually needed at least 10 items on an order to make it price right.
Instead of going with the IGUS gear, he showed me some ROLLON stuff that looks pretty cool. the ROLLON slider and carriage uses an actual bearing instead of the plastic insides that IGUS seems to use (can anyone confirm there are no bearings in the drylin-w?).

The downside? I'll have to make and bolt on my own plate on the carriage to mount a tripod head. and the price tag is still about 160 USD, without the metal plate.

What do you guys reckon? Should I just get the IGUS US supplier to ship the drylin stuff to HK? Or should I give the ROLLON gear a go?
 
And now I join the fray.
So glad I found this thread...you da man Zaza.

I'm just starting a several month film project with a pair of 5D MKII's.
It will involve lot's of low shots and angles (puppy dog story) and was looking for a modular slider system.

I found this lengthy thread yesterday and just got off the phone with igus and everything will be here tomorrow. This may be the most productive indie thread I've seen here or at dvinfo...kudos dudes.

FWIW, I also ordered a 701hdv head so that I can have a two head system. I'll mount a quick release plate to the track and mount it directly to my Sachtler head and sticks. This seems the ideal way to dolly in and out with a little elevation to avoid the track in the shot and to get some interesting tilts and small crane moves...basically the Cinevate system without the crank.

And for anyone with a small camera like the 5DII, the 701hdv is really a great little head and every bit as smooth as my Sachtler on big cameras with a Letus in front (none of which I use anymore after getting the 5DII's).

Psyched now.
 
jongo said:
Spoke with the local IGUS supplier in Hong Kong. He said he'd have to order the product in, and usually needed at least 10 items on an order to make it price right.
Instead of going with the IGUS gear, he showed me some ROLLON stuff that looks pretty cool. the ROLLON slider and carriage uses an actual bearing instead of the plastic insides that IGUS seems to use (can anyone confirm there are no bearings in the drylin-w?).
Click to expand...
Seems Rollon makes a bunch of different systems....which one are you looking at? ...and YES the Drylin-W is a special self-lubricating 'bearing'...not ball-bearings.


What do you guys reckon? Should I just get the IGUS US supplier to ship the drylin stuff to HK? Or should I give the ROLLON gear a go?
Click to expand...
I'd stick with the igus stuff. There's really NO one in HK that can get it? How about looking in Germany, I know igus has a place there?
 
jimagine said:
And now I join the fray.
So glad I found this thread...you da man Zaza.

I'm just starting a several month film project with a pair of 5D MKII's.
It will involve lot's of low shots and angles (puppy dog story) and was looking for a modular slider system.

I found this lengthy thread yesterday and just got off the phone with igus and everything will be here tomorrow. This may be the most productive indie thread I've seen here or at dvinfo...kudos dudes.

FWIW, I also ordered a 701hdv head so that I can have a two head system. I'll mount a quick release plate to the track and mount it directly to my Sachtler head and sticks. This seems the ideal way to dolly in and out with a little elevation to avoid the track in the shot and to get some interesting tilts and small crane moves...basically the Cinevate system without the crank.

And for anyone with a small camera like the 5DII, the 701hdv is really a great little head and every bit as smooth as my Sachtler on big cameras with a Letus in front (none of which I use anymore after getting the 5DII's).

Psyched now.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Please let us see some of the footage when you're done....sounds interesting. Best of luck!
 
A question to everyone who has made these​

How did you manage to fit a tripod in the centre with a 1/4" thread? I can't believe that everyone who has made one all have a 3/8" tripod. I have seen some pics of a couple of velbons which i know have a 1/4" thread, so my question: Did you drill a new whole to cater for this (perhaps a little off centre) or did you somehow tap the original hole (which i think is too big for a 1/4" tap) or did you do it some otherway?

I was thinking of buying the rail with an extra 60mm of length, so all the holes would be offset so i could drill my own hole in the middle. What do you guys think? Oh and i have a velbon dv7000

Cheers​
 
Zaza, the ROLLON rail is part number TLC28-1040 and is about 50-60 cm long, while the carriage is part NTE28. Those two pieces are coming in at 160 USD, so I'd still have to get some metal for a plate and find some stoppers.

I'm tempted to go ahead and buy the ROLLON, as I feel this might allow smoother starts (some have mentioned in the thread that they are buying longer rails because the beginning of the movement is not smooth enough to use).

Has anyone ordered IGUS stuff internationally?
 
andrew, i have a Velbon with 1/4" thread. explaining how i made mine work will only make sense/benefit you if you own one. but i made it work very well, no issues.
 
skinny! said:
andrew, i have a Velbon with 1/4" thread. explaining how i made mine work will only make sense/benefit you if you own one. but i made it work very well, no issues.
Click to expand...

Try and explain how you did it and i'll try and understand you. :). I just want to know how to do it before i take the plunge and buy one
 
igus rocks. Ordered my setup yesterday, arrived today. Just got back from the store with taps and hardware for both 3/8" and 1'4". I'm attaching a quick release plate to the rail which are 20-1/4" threads. I've also come up with a new design for feet/stops that takes a different approach to what I've seen so far.

I'm tapping the 4 holes in the rail ends (very glad to see that they were already hollow and didn't also need drilling.) then I'm putting a much smaller block than I've seen here, screwed through and into the rail ends. It will serve as both a platform for table top and ground level tracking and as a stop all the way out to the get a full 39" travel.
 
jimagine said:
igus rocks. Ordered my setup yesterday, arrived today. Just got back from the store with taps and hardware for both 3/8" and 1'4". I'm attaching a quick release plate to the rail which are 20-1/4" threads. I've also come up with a new design for feet/stops that takes a different approach to what I've seen so far.

I'm tapping the 4 holes in the rail ends (very glad to see that they were already hollow and didn't also need drilling.) then I'm putting a much smaller block than I've seen here, screwed through and into the rail ends. It will serve as both a platform for table top and ground level tracking and as a stop all the way out to the get a full 39" travel.
Click to expand...

Nice...show us pictures. It's kind of like this post on page 35 (my god, this thread has a life of it's own...LOL): http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=1586469&postcount=342
 
OK. Here are pics for my build. Now that I've actually had some sleep, here are the captions.
PortaDolly_1.jpg

ABOVE 1&2 : Instead of a rotation about a center attached swiveling 'joint' between the rail and a single tripod head (a good move for a certain dolly effect) . My logic here is to simply extend the length of a 4' rail by around 2' via a Dog-Leg section. The Main rail remains anchored to two tripods and the angled Dog-Leg is similarly bolted in place to the carriage beneath it. The fluid panning head attaches to the uppermost carriage and THAT rotates in pan as the Dog-Leg slides along the main rail from one end to the other. Once the terminus of the main rail is reached the upper carriage/head are then pushed further along with an added pan of the head, to result in the unique move that this arrangement produces.
The Dogleg can be oriented on either end of the rail simply by replacing the connecting 1/4-20 bolt.
PortaDolly_2.jpg

ABOVE 3, 4 & 5: 3) This simply shows the complete rail from below and please note the location of reinforcing plates that are not at the extreme terminus of the main rail but rather about 12" in from each end. I find that to be the optimal locations for a tripod supported rail. 4) Detail of the BEC plate. This plate was custom fabricated by the BEC Group for a Tekkeon Battery holder that we co-designed. I simply repurposed the plate. the logic is one of redundant support.5) Close Up of the juncture between the Dogleg section and the main rail's carriage. In retrospect a bigger bolt than 1/4-20 is recommended. NOTE unintentional rotation is prevented by the application of grip tape ( skateboard tape ) on the upper surface of the carriage plates.
PortaDolly_3.jpg

ABOVE 6,7,8,9,10 & 11 - 6&7) my idea of a simple and removeable stopper at all end points. Unscrewing the wingnut allows for carriages to be removed from rails but fully screwing them in prevents unintentional carraiges from escaping.
8&9) 3/8 bolt through the topmost carraige for attaching the fluid head. NOTE: rough Dremel work to cut a trough for the spring lock washer. NOTE: bottom view of my friction brake pad and spare felt dots parked on the underside of the carriage 10) detail of my Friction Brake. nothing more than a set screw with an allen top pushing down on a hacked plastic chair slider with a felt dot attached to it. This arrangement is calculated to keep the whole solution svelt and infinitely adjustable for friction. No lubricants are applied. Just the 'felt & slider' brake under pressure gets the job done of controlling slide speed.
11) A different POV
 
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oooooooo. me likey. i'd love to see some of your "wrap around" examples from your setup when you are able.
 
Hi.

I also want to make an IGUS slider.
My main cam is XM2 and the other setup is 2 HV10 (for 3D)
So the max. weight is about 1,6 kg.
Because this and for lighter setup i choose the 10-40 version.
Which carriage should i order? First i thinked the 10cm.
Or the 15cm one give me even better stability?

And the rail. It would be good a 1 m distance, but this is hard to carry when traveling in the mountain, etc. My idea is ordering first 50 cm, and when everything works well, i ordered the other 50cm and connect them at the bottom with some metal base. Somebody has such a setup?
It is possible to connect it without stick in the middle when sliding?

thx!
 
I don't think anyone has joined two pieces of track together yet. I don't know if that would work & still allow a smooth slide.

....guys? Ideas, thoughts...comments???
 
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