DIY IndieSlider...

skinny! said:
well, i didn't plan this purchase very well, as i didn't realize how burly this IGUS system is....my main tripod thusfar is the Velbon Videomate 607...i know, kind of sad...and without a detachable head, it's utterly useless for me and the zazaslider...

my budget is so small, and this thing has been lying on my living room floor for 2 days now...

i have a Canon XH-A1, no DOF adapter, no real add-ons....any recommendations for tripod legs that can support the full range of movement (39" rail) without going over $100? it's a stretch, if not impossible, but any advice would be appreciated. i can weigh the legs down, and am open to any modifications, as i have any tools i need at my disposal.

thanks all

Chris
www.vimeo.com/chrislight
Click to expand...

Hey Chris,

Why are you stressing over not being able to remove the head of your tripod? I know some of the guys are running their sliders with that setup ... However, did you see the pics from DM Rider's last setup? LINK This is the way to go IMO because you can keep the tripod's original configuration, and keep the center of gravity lower thereby giving you less camera wobble when you do your moves.

Attach the slider track to your existing tripod plate. Then all you need to pick up is an inexpensive Manfrotto universal sliding plate LINK Attach that to the slider's carriage and your camera and your good to go!
 
ZazaCast said:
You need to go back to the top of the posts and follow the instructions for adjusting the guides...these slide smooth as silk...something's not right.



EDIT... went and got it for you:

Additional Tech Notes: Aligning the carriage for a smooth slide

This is OFFICIAL igus procedure for "aligning" the carriage.
It only needs to be done once.

They say

1. Loosen all carriage bolts - (don't remove - just loosen a few turns)
2. slide carriage back and forth to allow bearings to align themselves)
3. (tech actually recommended "tapping" the center of the carriage to "bump" the bearings into place)
4. With downward pressure on carriage tighten the bolts again a few turns at a time (alternating them - i.e. do NOT crank one down and then do the other ones)
Click to expand...

Zaza, you actually sent me that procedure in a PM and I already did it but it still sticks somehow. Tracks are clean too. Maybe I just have higher standards. With 2 people works better.
 
Take_1 said:
Hey Chris,

Why are you stressing over not being able to remove the head of your tripod? I know some of the guys are running their sliders with that setup ... However, did you see the pics from DM Rider's last setup? LINK This is the way to go IMO because you can keep the tripod's original configuration, and keep the center of gravity lower thereby giving you less camera wobble when you do your moves.

Attach the slider track to your existing tripod plate. Then all you need to pick up is an inexpensive Manfrotto universal sliding plate LINK Attach that to the slider's carriage and your camera and your good to go!
Click to expand...

I think this is the worst way of using the slider. Doing the way you suggest you can't pan and tilt while you slide.
 
Sttratos said:
Zaza, you actually sent me that procedure in a PM and I already did it but it still sticks somehow. Tracks are clean too. Maybe I just have higher standards. With 2 people works better.
Click to expand...

No, there shouldn't be any sticking. I can slide mine with one finger and minimal effort, nice and smooth. Please give igus a call, maybe you have bad bearings or they gave you the wrong bearings. Something still doesn't sound right. They are a very customer oriented business, I'm sure they want you to be happy with their products.

PM me and let me know if I can help... this is weird??? I've built a few more of these and have never encountered this problem.
 
Quick question: as of now, is a pre-drilled rail kit/parts available for purchase from Igus? I don't have access to any tools, so a tool-less kit would be ideal.
 
actually, i thot it was not smooth enough but my friend thot it was. it doesnt bother me but that was just the thot.

it's not the bearing or spacing of it bc we got another set.
 
for the 16mm diameter rail, the opening is slightly smaller than 3/8". I was able to tap it and attach it to the tripods.

for the ends, I was also able to tap it w/ 3/8" w/o any problem.

check www.harborfreight.com for a set of taps. pretty cheap, 5-10bucks for standard unit. when you purchase these tap, get a proper handle for it.

tap set I got
handles i shouldve gotten

the stock handle is cheap, it doesnt grip well. i used it through out but I hated it bc it kept slipping off.
danjchoi said:
Quick question: as of now, is a pre-drilled rail kit/parts available for purchase from Igus? I don't have access to any tools, so a tool-less kit would be ideal.
Click to expand...
 
well, i figured it out...my tripod's head IS removable, they just glue the heck out of the threads where the head can be unscrewed...i took apart the head and found the best way to make it work. i just thought "if this was put together, it can be taken apart.".....i'll show you what i did in some photos later...it came out great and is plenty sturdy, yet i may get some weights for added stability...photos soon.

thanks everyone who posted suggestions for me.
 
Sttratos said:
I think this is the worst way of using the slider. Doing the way you suggest you can't pan and tilt while you slide.
Click to expand...
Of course you can. Why not? If you leave the tripod head where it belongs you can still pan and tilt. The only difference is that the whole track pans and tilts along with the camera. In the end you still get the same shot. The only drawbacks that I could see are if you have a really long track (might need an assistant then) or if you are in really tight quarters. Then it may not be a good thing to be swinging the track around like a samurai. But I bet most days your shots will be fairly subtle moves anyway so ... Actually ... now that I think about it ... in this config you could place your camera on the end of the slider and take advantage of the swinging arc for certain shots. Anyway, take it for what its worth. What works for some doesn't work for all.
 
well, i can't say i ever liked the idea of screwing the rail onto my tripod, as aluminum will not hold its thread for very long. so i just ran a screw long enough to facilitate the use of a 1/4-20 nut that i tighten down, sandwiching the rail nut-n-bolt style. assembly time is not an issue for me, as this is just my hobby. it's very strong.

mind you, my tripod system is not very heavy-duty, and the method Sttratos suggested would not work. i tried. i'm just glad i came up the solution, and i'll be posting pics probably tomorrow.

J DAVIS...thank you very much for your suggestions, they did not go unnoticed!
 
Last edited:
a few photos ...basically i made it work, and here's the result. iPhone photos, sorry.

Zaza2.jpg


notice the low profile nut securing the rail...

Zaza4.jpg


rubber bumpers i found at Home Depot for $1.81 each, secured with 8/32 screw and wingnut.

Zaza3.jpg


one last view. i think it looks pretty clean, and it is very strong...i will probably buy a couple of weights for the legs.

Zaza1.jpg
 
Sttratos said:
I think this is the worst way of using the slider. Doing the way you suggest you can't pan and tilt while you slide.
Click to expand...

It works better in my opinion. I mount my short track directly to my head, and it functions just as good as my long track setup, if not better.

Short Track
DSC_1615.jpg


Long track, with a permanent 75mm bowl on the bottom and a Bogen adapter so I can quickly pop on my 503 to the sled. The reason I don't mount my long track directly to my 503, is because when the camera gets to the end of the track, it's to much stress on the head for my liking.
DSC_1613.jpg
 
no, it's prolly not a good idea but I was willing to test it out to see how long it will last. if it doesnt last, I will just enlarge the hole to fit a 3/8" onto the tripod w/ a nut or bolt.
skinny! said:
well, i can't say i ever liked the idea of screwing the rail onto my tripod, as aluminum will not hold its thread for very long. so i just ran a screw long enough to facilitate the use of a 1/4-20 nut that i tighten down, sandwiching the rail nut-n-bolt style. assembly time is not an issue for me, as this is just my hobby. it's very strong.

mind you, my tripod system is not very heavy-duty, and the method Sttratos suggested would not work. i tried. i'm just glad i came up the solution, and i'll be posting pics probably tomorrow.

J DAVIS...thank you very much for your suggestions, they did not go unnoticed!
Click to expand...
 
I ended up bolting my Manfrotto quick release to the bottom of the slider. Now it is firmly attached and I don't have to worry that the threads will get stripped in time because it is affixed with a nut.
 
saw horses!

saw horses!

if your tripod is not strong enuf..... saw horses from the hardware store.

not as portable..... but cheep and VERY strong.


skinny! said:
well, i didn't plan this purchase very well, as i didn't realize how burly this IGUS system is....my main tripod thusfar is the Velbon Videomate 607...i know, kind of sad...and without a detachable head, it's utterly useless for me and the zazaslider...

my budget is so small, and this thing has been lying on my living room floor for 2 days now...

i have a Canon XH-A1, no DOF adapter, no real add-ons....any recommendations for tripod legs that can support the full range of movement (39" rail) without going over $100? it's a stretch, if not impossible, but any advice would be appreciated. i can weigh the legs down, and am open to any modifications, as i have any tools i need at my disposal.

thanks all

Chris
www.vimeo.com/chrislight
Click to expand...
 
Take_1 said:
Of course you can. Why not? If you leave the tripod head where it belongs you can still pan and tilt. The only difference is that the whole track pans and tilts along with the camera. In the end you still get the same shot. The only drawbacks that I could see are if you have a really long track (might need an assistant then) or if you are in really tight quarters. Then it may not be a good thing to be swinging the track around like a samurai. But I bet most days your shots will be fairly subtle moves anyway so ... Actually ... now that I think about it ... in this config you could place your camera on the end of the slider and take advantage of the swinging arc for certain shots. Anyway, take it for what its worth. What works for some doesn't work for all.
Click to expand...

Well, I agree, to which his own.
I agree that for very small tracks like DM_rider's, it works. But having to move the whole track makes it much more unstable and will really only work with extremely short tracks and with handheld type of cameras like a HVX. With bigger cameras or with tracks that need supports on the side it's impossible to swing the whole track along. The "right" way is to have a tripod head on the top of the slider. This is how is has been done for years now, this is how professional sliders used in motion pictures are. Now you could have 2 heads one on the bottom and one on the top. Then I could see the advantage, but having the head under the track only is handicapping the set up IMO.
 
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