Nirv
Carbonite Member
For example use the tonka 10-24 which wins no points on paper..
I would concentrate on lenses for film making not on lines per inch.
S
I have only ever noticed image artefacts like the purple fringing with modern lenses like the Nikkor 24-70 which aliases for fun on the FS7 so much so I only use it diffused down.
This very good Photo Blog explains why numbers are no measure of how 'good' a lens is. He has some excellent examples of the 3d pop in his gallery.
http://yannickkhong.com/blog/2016/2/23/the-problem-with-modern-optics
http://yannickkhong.com/blog/2015/10/4/the-flattening-of-modern-lenses-or-the-death-of-3d-pop
I wholeheartedly agree with the writer's conclusions and find the character and flaws of the Nikkor 28-85 and 80-200 f4 (30 yrs ago these were Nikons best ever zoom lenses) to be more than compensated by the depth the image has along with the detailed yet organic feel to the image. It's the same story with the Nikkor AI-S Primes I own, they all add something to the image.
If you want corner to corner sharpness, low CA and low vignetting then that comes at a cost and the image becomes a very flat surface. The very best cinema glass is sharp, has low CA etc but also retains the 3D pop, this is the difference between merely good glass and great but it doesn't come cheap.
With such high performing camera gear and lenses available to all in sundry I think it's important to try and find a differentiator and lenses offer that first contact with the incoming light to define your 'house look' and look beyond the numbers.