De-clicking still lenses in Toronto

Nigel A said:
Thanks Steven. I actually also picked up a Tokina 24-70 as well, and waiting for my MTF adapter. I'm buying time to see what other lens options come up at NAB, and what Cine zooms I might dive into.
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Any time...
I was thinking: we should probably be fine with out declicking if the lens is used with MTF adapter. As per adapter construction, it regulates Fstop on newer "G" lenses with turning the part of adapter (still don't know how it looks in detail??) that means that iris is working smooth on older lenses as well while F ring is on full open (??). This is only "in theory" as MTF adapter is still not out. I saw before that you ordered it, let us know when it gets to you and your feedback with older Nikons regarding smooth iris...
I my self, I got two Tokinas (28-80, 20-35) and now waiting for camera first and than Birger EOS mount for F (confirmed over the phone by them, as soon as they finish with AF100) so I can use all my "L" primes...
 
I am with Hunter. I've de-clicked some lenses and there's nothing to it. If you have a clean environment (no, it doesn't require a certified clean-room, just not your barn) you can do it. For me, it's the risk/benefit ratio. If it's a $500 lens, sure I'll do it. If it's a Arri Super Speed, well then...I'd probably send it in.
Maybe I'll start a shop for this...I love lenses and working on them!
 
Wow, you guys have inspired me!
I'm off to attempt a de-click on my Nikon F mounts this weekend....

Any other advice .... take photos along the way so you can remember where to put everything back, etc..?

I'm also assuming I'll need some of those micro mini screwdrivers, right?
 
Matthew-

Its so easy bro- its something like this (sorry its been a few years but your a tinkerer, I know you can figure it out):

Look at the rear mount- note its position.

Remove rear mount screws (micro screwdriver), slowly pull the mount off (the aperture linkage that comes out the back may move out of position- dont worry, just remember what side its on)

Pull the actual aperture ring back- either balls will pop out or youll see a small brass thing with a screw or two in it- take that off.

Place the aperture ring back on in the position you found it.

Place the mount back the correct way (again, you may need to twist it a bit to get the aperture linkage to sit properly)

Put screws back in. DONE.

Sound scary (and it is the first time) but its really not complicated at all once you remove those screws. Please share your success once you try it! Everyone needs to know how easy this is.
 
Complete! Holy smokes it was simple!

The Nikon 50mm 1.8 e-series pancake I worked on had this little mini metal tab thing with the ball built into it, and you could see plastic grooves inside the lens where the click spots were. It was held on by little plastic tabs that weren't screws - so I just ripped it off, basically.

Very simple re-construction, a little cleaning of the sand and crap in the lens, and voila, non-clicked Nikon 50.

I'm off to do my other lenses!

Hunter you're a genius man!!! Thank you!
 
Now examining the lens again, there's one kind of weird thing, when I put it right at f1.8 wide open, it kind of bounces back a little to f2. I guess the hard click allowed it to sit there firmly, wide open, and now that it's gone, there is a little bounce. It sits at f22 solidly though...

Maybe god is telling me to shoot a little deeper from now on... :)
 
Yay! Glad it worked! The pull from f1.8 to 2 is probably from a small spring next to the aperture that you can take out, but if it doesn't bother you too much, just leave it- most lenses should be fine and not pull.
 
A lot of folks use a THICK/CLEAN grease (hi-temp) to dampen the aperture ring so that there's a little more resistance to it. It works like a charm!
 
monkeyking said:
Any experience de-clicking Canon FD lenses?
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It's probably the same type of operation..

So all in all this weekend I de-clicked a Nikon 50mm e-series f1.8, a Nikkor 105mm f2.5, a Kiron 28mm f2, and a FILTHY dirty Nikkor 50mm f1.4.

Each lens was REALLY different in it's construction, so I had to be patient and go on a little adventure with each one.

The Nikon 50mm and Nikkor 105mm were as smooth as pie to disassemble. The click mechanism was obvious and fairly easy to remove. It would be nice to dampen the action on the iris, as it is extremely loose and free-flowing now. And probably epoxy a gear on there as well, just for those moments when you want to throw the follow focus on the iris just for fun!

The Kiron 28mm f2, well the iris didn't work in the first place... it seems to only be controlled by the tab in the far rear... I can't make heads or tails of it but at least I managed to de-click it!

The awful dirty 50mm 1.4 Nikkor was very confusing, there were no obvious screws to take off the back, I eventually figured out the lens is it's own little unit unto itself and everything is threaded onto it like a nut to a big bolt. Very unusual given the other Nikkor had such easy access. I managed to declick but the lens itself, including all the interior, is a dirty mess. I think all the grease has been polluted and seized up somehow...
I guess that's for Hunter's advanced class to figure out!

I also tried to do a e-series Nikon 100mm f2.8, which has really hard clicky stops in it, but I stripped one of the tiny screws trying to get the back off. Don't know how to proceed... I'd imagine you'd have to drill the screw out completely and get surgical on it to continue.

Thanks again Hunter for the advice!
 
Lens repair/modification is steeped in mythology and voodoo much like violin-making. It's just a series of simple, yet demanding steps. My word of advice is to start on a cheap lens or three before your $$ glass and don't open-up a lens that you can't afford to be without.
 
Any links/recommendations on the grease, Hunter? I'm hearing you should always use the specified grease originally used on the lens. Not that I can find that info on old Nikkors...
 
I cant recommend a good grease, i heard of someone using the black component from jbweld, but that sounds sketchy to me. LeavingTheCandy above said he would recommend a hi-temp grease- maybe a good starting point. Maybe he will share a specific brand?
 
Guys I would be very cautious about what kind of grease you are using. They can emit harmful chemicals gases that can get in everywhere and fog every element and can react with the coating. You should just call are qualified lens repair shop and get real recommendations.
 
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