D-TAP adapter for Canon Cx00 cameras

Owning a £3g raw shooting nd included af camera with XLR and never overheats is a bit too good for most people to consider .. especially one with a lens mount that is flooded with used bargains.

looks bad on instagram being off the curve

the old alexa-lf/cine glass/hernia combination is much more fashionable.
 
norway said:
Does anyone here have any experience using a D-Tap to LEMO cables on Canon Cinema cameras? Should I be worried about power surges, which I know could happen with external monitors connected via HDMI?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...dtc300_d_tap_to_canon_c200_c300.html/overview
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If you're trying to be better safe than sorry then you should follow the right protocol for connecting and disconnecting accessories when using D-Tap. Most of what I've read on the topic involved SDI connections and not hdmi, but you never know.

Good info from RED on the topic here: https://support.red.com/hc/en-us/articles/360057166453-Preventing-Damage-to-SDI-Outputs

And additional info from ARRi here: https://www.arri.com/resource/blob/...39958/download-technical-information-data.pdf
 
DustinSchmidt said:
If you're trying to be better safe than sorry then you should follow the right protocol for connecting and disconnecting accessories when using D-Tap. Most of what I've read on the topic involved SDI connections and not hdmi, but you never know.

Good info from RED on the topic here: https://support.red.com/hc/en-us/articles/360057166453-Preventing-Damage-to-SDI-Outputs

And additional info from ARRi here: https://www.arri.com/resource/blob/...39958/download-technical-information-data.pdf
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Thanks, Dustin! I'll check it out.
 
morgan_moore said:
Owning a £3g raw shooting nd included af camera with XLR and never overheats is a bit too good for most people to consider .. especially one with a lens mount that is flooded with used bargains.

looks bad on instagram being off the curve

the old alexa-lf/cine glass/hernia combination is much more fashionable.
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I hear you. (I don't mind living with EF glass for a little while longer.)

 
to be fair Ive been struggling a little with the s35 non speedboosted look.. now got a nifty fifty, 18-35 1.8 stigma and will get a 85 1.8 that should bring a bit more mojo. probably the best $1k you can spend in s35?
 
morgan_moore said:
to be fair Ive been struggling a little with the s35 non speedboosted look.. now got a nifty fifty, 18-35 1.8 stigma and will get a 85 1.8 that should bring a bit more mojo. probably the best $1k you can spend in s35?
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The Sigma 18-35 is great. Did you a full-frame camera before S35?
 
Occasionally I have a larger set up for my c200. I have the shorter tilta cable, which seems fine so far - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...300_mk_ii.html

The increased and awkward footprint when using the DC in sort of sucks. It'd be much better if there was a right angle version. I hate being cautious of placing the camera on the ground or having the back close to my body. The times I have shot with external batteries, I've still left a canon battery in the camera just in case because the connection doesn't feel as reassuring as a 4 pin XLR for example.

Several times I've gone back and forth thinking about rigging and always end up concluding that the c200 is best as bare bones as possible. It is certainly capable of larger builds but you start moving away from its original set of strengths. This can't be a strict rule, only what's good for me. But when it comes to rigging, I keep the bare minimum on hand, for example a smallrig baseplate/rods and a battery plate and that's about it. Going down the bright tangerine path for a camera like this is a waste IMO, where as I wouldn't hesitate to add BT/Arri accessories to a c300 iii.

Instead of a wireless follow focus/battery plate on rods from a baseplate, I'd like to try something like this on the diagonal (front) of the top handle, with the follow focus on a rod from the top plate. It'd be a more congested yet compact set up, which would be nice to test for a day.
 
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rob norton said:
Several times I've gone back and forth thinking about rigging and always end up concluding that the c200 is best as bare bones as possible. It is certainly capable of larger builds but you start moving away from its original set of strengths. This can't be a strict rule, only what's good for me. But when it comes to rigging, I keep the bare minimum on hand, for example a smallrig baseplate/rods and a battery plate and that's about it. Going down the bright tangerine path for a camera like this is a waste IMO, where as I wouldn't hesitate to add BT/Arri accessories to a c300 iii.
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Thanks, Rob! I've come to the exact same conclusion. I am currently using the C200 with the smallest baseplate I could find, with rods for mounting follow-focus and handgrip.

rob norton said:
Occasionally I have a larger set up for my c200. I have the shorter tilta cable, which seems fine so far - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...300_mk_ii.html

The increased and awkward footprint when using the DC in sort of sucks. It'd be much better if there was a right angle version. I hate being cautious of placing the camera on the ground or having the back close to my body. The times I have shot with external batteries, I've still left a canon battery in the camera just in case because the connection doesn't feel as reassuring as a 4 pin XLR for example.
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This is good advice. I am only considering using an external battery in an on-shoulder situation.
 
norway said:
This is good advice. I am only considering using an external battery in an on-shoulder situation.
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Nice! I started looking into an "all day" rig, which would be as few card and battery changes as possible but always found it easier to carry several BP-A30 batteries vs. two larger gold mount batteries. Three BP-A30s fit perfectly in the Think Tank Photo Little Stuff It! Belt Pouch V3.0, which can be strapped to anything e.g. easyrig shoulder strap, tripod leg etc. With one battery already in the camera, this is about 8 hours of shooting. But with a shoulder rig I understand the benefit of larger batteries if only to assist in better balance.

What parts make up your shoulder rig?

I think it'd be fun to try a shoulder rig with two battery plates, one as close to the body as possible, and the other further back in a position that balances everything. The second battery wouldn't be connected, but would be available to swap positions when the first one runs out. Not for every single job but might work if you're 100% shoulder mounted for a full day of shooting.
 
Ive been on the fs7 with speedbooster all the time and many prime nikkors

i entered canon poorly with 70-200 f4 and 24-70f4 and 15-85 5.6
 
rob norton said:
Nice! I started looking into an "all day" rig, which would be as few card and battery changes as possible but always found it easier to carry several BP-A30 batteries vs. two larger gold mount batteries. Three BP-A30s fit perfectly in the Think Tank Photo Little Stuff It! Belt Pouch V3.0, which can be strapped to anything e.g. easyrig shoulder strap, tripod leg etc. With one battery already in the camera, this is about 8 hours of shooting. But with a shoulder rig I understand the benefit of larger batteries if only to assist in better balance.

What parts make up your shoulder rig?

I think it'd be fun to try a shoulder rig with two battery plates, one as close to the body as possible, and the other further back in a position that balances everything. The second battery wouldn't be connected, but would be available to swap positions when the first one runs out. Not for every single job but might work if you're 100% shoulder mounted for a full day of shooting.
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Buried in work right now. Let me see if I can share photos/details later.
 
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