C100: Custom Profile + Profile Test for Newbies

Victor[BC]

Member
Hello All,
One of the guys over in the FB Canon Eos group posted up a custom profile that we saw so i made a little video about it. Basically it's a customization done straight in camera based off of the Wide DR profile that reduces the amount of work you need to do in post.
I've also included comparisons of Eos std, Wide DR and Clog for anyone who's new to the camera.

The video isn't super great but it works!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52Cb2xceTtQ&feature=youtu.be

*edit*
i realize this is like (but not as great as) the cowpunk profile thread, but i couldn't get his to work so i was pumped when i found this one
 
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Thanks for sharing. A great nature shooter by the name of Paul Frederick created that profile years ago for the original C100. He called it "Wide PF" and I used it all the time back then. It did indeed look quite nice. Here's his original thread: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?315356-C100-Ninja-2-Nature-film-quot-Their-Last-Days-quot

Problem is that was designed using firmware that is several versions and years removed now, and on the C100 mkI, not the mkII. The color science has been continually tweaked on the C100 with each firmware, so the only way to really use that profile as it was designed, you have to be on older firmware--and you can't downgrade the firmware on a C100. Plus if you're on a C100 mkII, the color science is even more different. You can't even share picture profiles between the mkI and mkII.

You'll notice there's not much talk of custom picture profiles these days. Cowpunk's thread is dead. People mostly think these days the color science has been so honed, you're usually best to stick with C-Log or WIDE DR. I also switch to a Cine 1 or 2-based profile for high ISO shooting. The tweaks made in that profile are pretty easily made with a few click in your NLE (drop the blacks a bit, adjust saturation, etc.)
 
Thanks for sharing. A great nature shooter by the name of Paul Frederick created that profile years ago for the original C100. He called it "Wide PF" and I used it all the time back then. It did indeed look quite nice. Here's his original thread: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?315356-C100-Ninja-2-Nature-film-quot-Their-Last-Days-quot

Problem is that was designed using firmware that is several versions and years removed now, and on the C100 mkI, not the mkII. The color science has been continually tweaked on the C100 with each firmware, so the only way to really use that profile as it was designed, you have to be on older firmware--and you can't downgrade the firmware on a C100. Plus if you're on a C100 mkII, the color science is even more different. You can't even share picture profiles between the mkI and mkII.

You'll notice there's not much talk of custom picture profiles these days. Cowpunk's thread is dead. People mostly think these days the color science has been so honed, you're usually best to stick with C-Log or WIDE DR. I also switch to a Cine 1 or 2-based profile for high ISO shooting. The tweaks made in that profile are pretty easily made with a few click in your NLE (drop the blacks a bit, adjust saturation, etc.)

Wicked thanks!
I'm still pretty new to the C100mkii and it's a side business for me so i don't have a ton of time/projects to get used to the post.
 
Yeah, you don't want to use C100 profiles in a C100MK2. Abelcine has a free download of profiles just for the MK2. Here's a linky: https://www.abelcine.com/articles/b.../canon-c100-mark-ii-scene-files-from-abelcine

I've been using their low-light version for, err... low-light situations and it's the best for baked in. Very clean as long as you don't go too nuts with the gain. Same with their hi-lite and hi-contrast (though I did some tweaks on the hi-light to reduce contrast just a bit) these are becoming my go-to profiles for baked in colors. I've kind-of come to the conclusion that unless you are using an external recorder, the internal log just isn't robust enough for grading and just invites banding. The baked in profiles seem to work, and can withstand very minor grading though I usually just put it through Filmconvert and it comes out looking very nice indeed.
 
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