Completely lost when it comes to lenses
- Thread starter Azmyth
- Start date
vcassel
Veteran
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length - down to the section titled 'In Photography' (this refers to focal length by the way).
On most cameras, a 50mm lens is known as a 'standard lens' because it's closest to what a human eye sees from whatever distance. The GH1 however has a 2x crop sensor, meaning that a 50mm becomes a 100mm. The majority of great historical camera work (Hitchcock, Kurosawa) was done mostly with a 50mm lens. On the GH1 a 24mm or 25mm lens becomes your standard lens. You might want to start with one of those.
The other option is to get a nice zoom lens and experiment with the focal lengths you like the most before investing in prime lenses (non zoom single focal length lens). The Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 is a widely respected lens with a good resale value. It's also pretty fast for a wide zoom. The f/2.8 stands for its speed, or how much light it's capable of letting in - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture. Most people value faster lenses - lower numbers - because they let more light in which is a boon if you don't have light or are working with a available lights.
On most cameras, a 50mm lens is known as a 'standard lens' because it's closest to what a human eye sees from whatever distance. The GH1 however has a 2x crop sensor, meaning that a 50mm becomes a 100mm. The majority of great historical camera work (Hitchcock, Kurosawa) was done mostly with a 50mm lens. On the GH1 a 24mm or 25mm lens becomes your standard lens. You might want to start with one of those.
The other option is to get a nice zoom lens and experiment with the focal lengths you like the most before investing in prime lenses (non zoom single focal length lens). The Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 is a widely respected lens with a good resale value. It's also pretty fast for a wide zoom. The f/2.8 stands for its speed, or how much light it's capable of letting in - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture. Most people value faster lenses - lower numbers - because they let more light in which is a boon if you don't have light or are working with a available lights.
vcassel
Veteran
This link - http://www.howitookit.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/crop_factor.jpg - shows the 2x crop factor of the GH1's micro 4/3 senser in relation to the standard 35mm frame. Take this into consideration when buying lenses!
stoneinapond
Veteran
Also remember that you can obviate some of the crop by standing further away from your subject. But in that case your subject will appear further away (smaller).
However, other than establishing shots (shots that show the general area where something is taking place), much of the work in video is done close up where the crop factor is not so important.
Still, it is something that you need to be aware of.
vcassel
Veteran
True! Reminds me: a great exercise for developing mind's eye focal length framing is picking an outdoor subject such as a tree in a park, frame it with plenty of negative space around it at 14mm (28mm on the GH1), focus, take your exposure, take 5 paces forward, repeat. Repeat process at 18mm (36mm on GH1), 24mm (48mm on GH1), 35mm (70mm on GH1), and 50mm (100mm on GH1). Try this on your knees and on your belly too. Do this exercise everyday for a month and you'll share a vision with fewer than 10% of photographers!