Colortran lights: What do I need to know?

That looks like a Bates stage plug. Just take it apart and remove the wires from the terminals. Then, attach a regular Edison plug (make sure you get the ground wire right).
Stage to Edison adaptor cables are available, but they ain't cheap!
Hope this helps.
Ken
 
Regarding TVMP's - get the Avenger - the Matthews has a little thumbscrew that needs pliers to tighten - the Avenger has a very nice & ergonomic T-handle. Attach it with a lock washer to be safe. On some lights I've had to drill out the hole a little wider; use a step-drill for that (get one from Harbor freight - a set of 3 is like 1/4 the cost of one in the big box stores).

If you're unsure of wiring, google it - the ground, hot and neutral go on specific lugs! if you wire a switch, the ground usually passes through, unless the switch is metal and has a ground lug.
 
Thanks guys. I don't have a single wiring/electric credit to my name but there is always a first time. Just to be sure, all the components I need come separately correct? I need a cable, switch and the Edison plug correct? Do these components come separately to be wired together or can you find a cable with an in-line switch complete with the Edison plug ready so that all I have to do is wire the tail (did I use that term correctly?)?
 
Yes, all components are separate. In addition, if you get the cool lights switch, you'll need crimp terminals ($3 for a 10-pack at Home Depot).
 
It's best not to buy one of these wonderful old Colortran fresnels without barndoors because it can take some time and cost some dough to find a set, but if you don't, measure the diameter you need and save a search on eBay that keeps looking for you. They pop up pretty often. Instead of switches on the converted studio lights I use Harbor Freight router speed controls as they combine a switch with a dimmer up to 1K for about $20. I've never had to but I believe you can still get parts for these babies from their successor manufacturer, Leviton.
 
Has this mod been discussed here (or elsewhere) in detail before? If it has I would really appreciate a link that would save all you pros the basic noob questions I have.

If not, are there any specific things to keep in mind when doing this modification? Like:

- the type of cable I need to get and it's rating?

-Someone mentioned a switch from coollights that needs an extra component to work. Is there an alternative one that comes ready for use right out of the box?

-What exactly are "Harbor Freight router speed controls" and where can I find them? They incorporate both a switch and a dimmer right? Are dimmers recommended on tungsten fixtures given that the color temperature changes with the dimming?

-Can all the stuff I need be found at a home depot or equivalent?
 
For the cable I would use 12/3 SJ. Also check the socket for signs of corrosion and pitting, and if necessary clean or replace it. For cleaning try a piece of emory cloth wrapped around a dowl or pencil around the same diameter as the lamp pin. That can usually eliminate all but the most severe pitting. Depending on how the cable is attached to the socket you might need crimp on terminals for it.
 
dwiener said:
For the cable I would use 12/3 SJ.
Click to expand...

16/3 is fine for a 1k.

As far as the switch goes, anything that will be ready to use with no extra parts will most likely be much more expensive. You can get one from Arri, I think the one rated for 1k is $40.
 
So I finally decided to do the mod for the 1k Colortrans I bought but ran into a problem. These housing on these heads seem to be riveted together making it extremely difficult for me to open them and replace the cable. I need to replace the whole cable because the ones that came with the units are too short. I decided to search the web for stage to Edison adaptors and came across THIS POSTING ON EBAY. Can anyone knowledgable on this confirm that this is what I need?
 
That will work but not the most elegant solution. If the tail coming out of the lamp is ok (not brittle, insulation not cracked) then just replace the stage connector with an Edison connector. A lot cheaper than the adapter if you're never going to need the stage pin connector. You may wind up with a slightly shorter cable coming out of the lamp. If the tail is not in good condition than you need to find a way to replace it.
 
You can spend half as much money on switches from Cool Lights which actually have a functional purpose and will also let you wire on more cable.
 
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