C100: Checking used camera condition on C100?
- Thread starter Iudex
- Start date
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Not a whole lot that goes wrong with C100. As far as recording hours, it doesn't really matter since there are no moving parts to the recording process like heads. But of course, hours give a good indication of how much the camera was actually used. I am pretty anally retentive about keeping the original box, packaging, accessories so if you were buying the camera from me, you would see that I baby my gear and take good care of it.
1. Make sure that the handgrip threads are not stripped
2. Make sure there are not any lit pixel clumps by recording with the body cap on and then examine footage on a large screen. A small one might be mapped out by black balance so if you see any, try black balance to see if they disappear. If not, pass on the camera.
3. Make sure the HDMI connection is reasonably tight so your HDMI cable to a monitor or recorder doesn't fall out.
4. Check the lens mount for excessive play or wear against it, could be an indicator that the camera had too heavy lenses mounted on it without support
5. Check the flip out LCD for function, look at it at an angle to check for any deep scratches or gouges
6. Go through the menus and check for various functions, like color profiles, etc.
7. The handle on the C100 has a tiny bit of play even when brand new and snugged down so that's normal. Examine the audio connection and cable to make sure it is in good condition
8. Are the audio controls cover, rubber connection covers on the rear still in place? Another good indication of abuse and carelessness. Easy to break off but I wouldn't buy a camera where any are missing personally as it gives an indication that this camera was probably ridden hard and put away wet.
9. Check function of the DPAF. Mine has been a bit inconsistent. It works 90% of the time but once in a while, it is non-responsive. I can fix it by turning the power on and off and or re-mounting the lens (18-135 STM IS), I should take it to Canon to get it fixed but it works 90% of the time and that other 10% of the time I can fix it quickly.
10. Check 1/4" 20 tripod mounting hole for stripped threads. Also ask if owner has 3/8" tripod plate that came withe camera, as well as manual, body cap, all of the other little accessories
Generally, the C100 is a damn reliable piece of gear so if it functions well for you during your check out, chances are it will function well going forward. You see very few malfunction or break downs here on DVXUser. They happen but are relatively rare.
1. Make sure that the handgrip threads are not stripped
2. Make sure there are not any lit pixel clumps by recording with the body cap on and then examine footage on a large screen. A small one might be mapped out by black balance so if you see any, try black balance to see if they disappear. If not, pass on the camera.
3. Make sure the HDMI connection is reasonably tight so your HDMI cable to a monitor or recorder doesn't fall out.
4. Check the lens mount for excessive play or wear against it, could be an indicator that the camera had too heavy lenses mounted on it without support
5. Check the flip out LCD for function, look at it at an angle to check for any deep scratches or gouges
6. Go through the menus and check for various functions, like color profiles, etc.
7. The handle on the C100 has a tiny bit of play even when brand new and snugged down so that's normal. Examine the audio connection and cable to make sure it is in good condition
8. Are the audio controls cover, rubber connection covers on the rear still in place? Another good indication of abuse and carelessness. Easy to break off but I wouldn't buy a camera where any are missing personally as it gives an indication that this camera was probably ridden hard and put away wet.
9. Check function of the DPAF. Mine has been a bit inconsistent. It works 90% of the time but once in a while, it is non-responsive. I can fix it by turning the power on and off and or re-mounting the lens (18-135 STM IS), I should take it to Canon to get it fixed but it works 90% of the time and that other 10% of the time I can fix it quickly.
10. Check 1/4" 20 tripod mounting hole for stripped threads. Also ask if owner has 3/8" tripod plate that came withe camera, as well as manual, body cap, all of the other little accessories
Generally, the C100 is a damn reliable piece of gear so if it functions well for you during your check out, chances are it will function well going forward. You see very few malfunction or break downs here on DVXUser. They happen but are relatively rare.
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You mention something I've always been curious about. How much weight is "too much" weight for a lens without support on the C100? I think my heaviest lens is probably my Tamron 70-200 at just under 3 pounds. I've never used any kind of support with it and never had any issues. What are the upper mounting limits of what you'd consider safe without additional support?
The front of my Canon 70-200mm 2.8 IS (3.28 lbs) will sag a tiny amount when mounted compared to my other lenses, so I use a lens support to counteract this. I figure if a lens comes with a tripod support ring it's probably a good idea to support it.
nedcam
Well-known member
Do you know the person selling it? Is it a dealer? Can you take it home for 24 hours and run it through it's paces?
Some things to consider:
• Make certain it wasn't a rental unit. People beat the hell out of rentals. Imagine a hood mount for a Jeep desert commercial. It's the rental they'll use.
• Canon in Argentina will be able to tell you if you provide the serial number if it had a major repair(s).
• Make certain it isn't hot. Check with the Buenos Aires police and local Canon office that it's serial number was never stolen. It's happened twice to me. If the seller won't give you a signed receipt with the serial number on it then that is always a bad sign. Oh! And do the transaction in a public space such as (my favorite) the police station parking lot:
http://www.cameratrace.com/trace
• Although there are no moving parts per se, if you opened it up you'd see it's made up of circuit boards and if there is a "cold solder break" the camera will malfunction if it's too hot, too cold, etc. I've had cameras that would work if they were on their left side but not on their right, etc. so shake it and torture test it. Pretend you're doing a sales video for a roller coaster manufacturer.
Good luck!
Some things to consider:
• Make certain it wasn't a rental unit. People beat the hell out of rentals. Imagine a hood mount for a Jeep desert commercial. It's the rental they'll use.
• Canon in Argentina will be able to tell you if you provide the serial number if it had a major repair(s).
• Make certain it isn't hot. Check with the Buenos Aires police and local Canon office that it's serial number was never stolen. It's happened twice to me. If the seller won't give you a signed receipt with the serial number on it then that is always a bad sign. Oh! And do the transaction in a public space such as (my favorite) the police station parking lot:
http://www.cameratrace.com/trace
• Although there are no moving parts per se, if you opened it up you'd see it's made up of circuit boards and if there is a "cold solder break" the camera will malfunction if it's too hot, too cold, etc. I've had cameras that would work if they were on their left side but not on their right, etc. so shake it and torture test it. Pretend you're doing a sales video for a roller coaster manufacturer.
Good luck!
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Matt Turner
Well-known member
From personal experience I'd also check the following:
I live by the beach so it's my go to location for playing with the camera, and even though the camera has never gotten wet the body screws and XLR connectors show a little corrosion from the salt air.
Also at one point I got some sand in the air intake which I could only faintly hear, so put your ear next to the exhaust with the fan on and make sure it's running smoothly.
I live by the beach so it's my go to location for playing with the camera, and even though the camera has never gotten wet the body screws and XLR connectors show a little corrosion from the salt air.
Also at one point I got some sand in the air intake which I could only faintly hear, so put your ear next to the exhaust with the fan on and make sure it's running smoothly.
Hmm. My Tamron 70-200 2.8 is about .75 pounds lighter than your Canon 70-200 2.8, but now you've got me paranoid. I'll have to dwell on this. I haven't had any issues so far, but I don't want my support ring snapping at a vital moment.
I found this thread from a while back about Canon support claiming it was okay to mount the 70-200 2.8 without support. But your experience would seem to claim otherwise.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/archive/index.php/t-309690.html
I started playing with my configuration when I got home last night. My Tamron 70-200 2.8 is 2.75 pounds while my C100 is only 2.25 pounds, so I opted to slap my spare Manfrotto base plate onto the support ring of my lens and mount it directly to the tripod with my (lighter) C100 hanging off. Seems to be a more balanced and safer configuration overall. For a little extra security I wedged some foam between the C100 and the tripod head for extra support. I'm lucky if I use my telephoto more than 10% of the time, so I think this will do me. A lot of my work is run and gun so investing in a full-on support plate that I need to constantly remove and reattach isn't really an option for me.
my plan is to get the zacuto gorilla plate for c100 and a lanparte lens support off amazon. i already have rods so that setup is about $250 and mounts on the bottom of the cam between cam and wedge plate. you can leave that and rods on all the time and just move support piece into place when needed. im sure the plate attached to the lens itself works but my experience on sets has been everyone is on such a hurry that no one takes the time to switch everything around every time you change lenses, so something you can leave in place and only have to make a quick minor adjustment to seems optimal.
Thanks guys the camera seemed OK but there's a little issue... the top handle with the mic and XLR inputs is missing!.. the seller is a company that apparently misplaced it.
What would you say the price of it to be without the top handle? 75%? 70%? I have an external recorder so it could still work out for me...
What would you say the price of it to be without the top handle? 75%? 70%? I have an external recorder so it could still work out for me...
True, but isn't there another mini jack mic input at the body? Isn't it usable with a small hotshoe microphone?
The seller has misplaced the top handle... he has no idea where it is and he won't lower the price accordingly.
Anyway, I'm going to Chicago and Miami in about two weeks. I guess I'll just get a new one there... unless someone knows someone trusty who's looking to sell his.
If you do, let me know.
Anyway, I'm going to Chicago and Miami in about two weeks. I guess I'll just get a new one there... unless someone knows someone trusty who's looking to sell his.
If you do, let me know.
nedcam
Well-known member
PM or call me tonight, I will give you the email of a buddy who wants to sell his and go FS5. I will be turning off my phone and disconnecting wifi for the next three days to enjoy the weekend and wean myself off being constantly connected.
I have had in your situation to contact repair facilities to buy parts. Sort of like going to a junkyard. That handle may have been salvaged from a wrecked C100.
ned (at) nedmiller.com
I have had in your situation to contact repair facilities to buy parts. Sort of like going to a junkyard. That handle may have been salvaged from a wrecked C100.
ned (at) nedmiller.com
Michael Thames
Carbonite Member
Duh.....!