Camera directly overhead actor spinning 360 degrees. How can i do this?
- Thread starter deadby23
- Start date
Moseph
Veteran
I really can't see any way of simply manipulating the tripod to rotate a camera 360 degrees directly over someone. The first thing that comes to mind would be to have a circular dolly track with a (rather long) jib arm, not cheap or practically DIYable. What's the surface of the ground for the scene? If you're using a light enough camera, maybe you could rig it up to a ceiling fan if there's one there? I say that partly joking, but as crazy of an idea as it is, it sounds like it's what you're going for.
LoganMackay
Well-known member
I seem to remember Matthew Bennett making something out of a ceiling fan... I think.
dcarstens
Well-known member
You need to be able to make the nodal point align with the lens to keep the center of frame constant. Best way to achieve this is with a Weaver-Steadman head on a jib. You may also be able to center the nodal point with an underslung head like a Varizoom zero gravity head by shimming the baseplate the correct distance.
S. Matthews
Well-known member
Attach a lazy Susan to the ceiling and mount a tripod head to that? I don't know first thing that came to mind was something with a lazy Susan but that is real low grade DIY. I like the ceiling fan idea though i would be sure to test how much weight it can take before doing a take with an actor underneath(obviously). though I guess that goes without saying that any set up for this needs to be thoroughly tested to ensure no surprise falls that could injure your camera and possibly the talent, and that would not be good.
good luck and have a good one!
p.s. If I had the resources I would make an articulating arm for monitors and such attached to a ceiling dolly track, with a 360 degree pivot where they attach, though you would most likely have to run it with motors as getting that 360 shot would be difficult to operate yourself, though without knowing the shot you have in mind it's hard to know, but I have been thinking of a kind of rig like that where it's a kind of universal steady cam but from a ceiling allowing nearly any move in a tight space or a set without wild walls. So that might not make sense to anyone but me (or be very pointless or exists already) but that's what I have had in the back of my mind for a bit.
good luck and have a good one!
p.s. If I had the resources I would make an articulating arm for monitors and such attached to a ceiling dolly track, with a 360 degree pivot where they attach, though you would most likely have to run it with motors as getting that 360 shot would be difficult to operate yourself, though without knowing the shot you have in mind it's hard to know, but I have been thinking of a kind of rig like that where it's a kind of universal steady cam but from a ceiling allowing nearly any move in a tight space or a set without wild walls. So that might not make sense to anyone but me (or be very pointless or exists already) but that's what I have had in the back of my mind for a bit.
2 quick thoughts on shooting locked off to achieve the effect:
1. Can you shoot locked off and zoom accordingly and spin in post...
2. Go the park and tell the actor to act on a merry-go-round, or better yet buy a blue one and key out the background
http://www.apark.com/product-details.php?prodid=1438
Sound like a fun shot, either way
clang
Veteran
Some sort of u-shaped rod and adjustable weight so that the camera can point directly down, while safely hanging from a cord attached to a stable point above. That's the cheapest and simplest I can think of, but actually spinning the camera will need to be done very carefully, without also wobbling the camera.
Spinning in post, as suggested above, is also a good idea, if you can shoot in higher def than you need for your project - the 'spinning' will need to be zoomed in to avoid the cropped corners being visible as the pic rotates.
Spinning in post, as suggested above, is also a good idea, if you can shoot in higher def than you need for your project - the 'spinning' will need to be zoomed in to avoid the cropped corners being visible as the pic rotates.
Al MacLeod
Well-known member
I've seen a mirror used on televised cooking shows to give an "above the preparation area" kind of shot. The mirror is suspended 6-8 feet above at a 45 degree angle allowing the camera to stay on the ground. They use a first surface mirror sized about 2 by four feet. You might not have to go that big though.
This should only be done with an underslung remote head. Someone inventive might use four grip heads, four grip arms, four baby-bolt-on-pins and a cheese plate to tripod head to a ceiling fan with the blades removed. But it really shouldn't be done this way.
j
Veteran
"L" bracket.
Attach it on to the tripod, then mount the camera at 90 degrees. You will have to spin it by hand, but it works. (as above, make sure you center the camera on the nodal point)
For smaller cameras, you can get an L bracket at Home Depot for ~$10. For larger cameras, take apart an old swivel chair. The part that mounts the back to the base is usually an L mount. I've use one to mount a fully loaded BL35.
Attach it on to the tripod, then mount the camera at 90 degrees. You will have to spin it by hand, but it works. (as above, make sure you center the camera on the nodal point)
For smaller cameras, you can get an L bracket at Home Depot for ~$10. For larger cameras, take apart an old swivel chair. The part that mounts the back to the base is usually an L mount. I've use one to mount a fully loaded BL35.
Michael Carter
Veteran
I've mounted my slider to the ceiling for several shots. Nodal point not centered, but I wasn't doing complete 180's. You could easily do this with a sturdy metal L-bracket that are commonly available as J said; getting the nodal point close would be fairly easy if your QR plate was of the longer sliding type - both my Manfrotto and Miller seem to have enough fore & aft range to do this.
Whatever you do, you probably want a decent fluid head to be the source of the motion vs. a bearing of some type (lazy susan, wheels, etc) - the drag and damping would make it a lot easier. Doing the ceiling shots I've done, it was very difficult to work the spin and not be in frame. And you will need an external monitor and a way to mount it that's off-frame as well.
Whatever you do, you probably want a decent fluid head to be the source of the motion vs. a bearing of some type (lazy susan, wheels, etc) - the drag and damping would make it a lot easier. Doing the ceiling shots I've done, it was very difficult to work the spin and not be in frame. And you will need an external monitor and a way to mount it that's off-frame as well.