Bolt-head stripped on hand grip

little bobby

little bobby

Well-known member
As the title says, I've stripped the head of one of the 1/4 - 20 bolts that holds the side hand grip on. I've even tried a damaged screw remover, which has only carved an even larger hole into the bolt head.

As you can see from the photo, I think I'm screwed (terrible pun not intended).

Anyone have any ideas on how to get this out? I'd like to be able to continue to use the hand grip in the future, so not destroying it would be a plus (but not a requirement).

yQyYwS3.jpg
 
How about making a slot using a dremel cut-off wheel, then backing it out with a screwdriver?

Or perhaps drilling an 1/8 ish hole in the stem and trying your extractor again, giving it's flutes something to grab?

Gunna need to know how this turns out.
Craig
 
I was thinking of the dremel solution, unfortunately I don't think the cutoff wheel will go down into the hole of the hand grip.

I'll have to look at the different dremel attachments I have tonight when I get home.

I will definitely keep this post updated on what works...er...what happens.

Its too bad these bolts are made of such soft metal.
 
Those are my least favorite type. They tend not to grab the bolt well and you often end up unsuccesful. I suspect it will work ok in this case since that bolt is likely not on there very tight. This type works better as do the others below:

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-G...2441&sr=8-1&keywords=stripped+screw+extractor
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-952315?seid=srese1&gclid=CM7M1Za8ib8CFUhufgodEUcAJQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380544972904?lpid=82

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...__25122933424_c_S&026=-99&025=c&item=77270163
 
You can get a dremel cutter to it... there's nothing whatsoever vital in the side handle plastics, so cutting a slot into that by accident won't hurt anything but its vanity. Remember to use as tight-fitting a screwdriver as possible.

Of course if you want to keep it pretty, one alternate method:

First, squirt a very small amount of WD-40, PB Blaster, Break Free, or the like at the screw edge and let gravity and capillary action take it down behind the screw head to the stuck threads.

Next, get a small chisel, or sharpen the end of a flathead screwdriver. Give it a good smack to bite with a small hammer/mallet/whatever into one edge of the crater you've stripped. Tap it lightly counter-clockwise so you're only applying leverage to one outside edge of the screw (as in, you're only putting the turning pressure at 12-o'clock, not 12 o'clock and 6-o'clock). It should slowly back out.

Second alternate:
Drill the whole screw head off. Just use a slightly-larger-than 1/4" drill bit and drill unit you hit the screw shank - the head will pop off. Use pliers or the dremel-and-driver method to remove the remaining screw.

Once you remove it, make sure you check the threads in the body... the steel screw would only cling that tenaciously if it were cross-threaded, corroded, or overtightened and stripped the aluminum threads, and in any of those situations the threads will need some attention. Chasing them with a 1/4-20" tap will do.
 
Take it to a local machine shop/enginering shop and they can tap it and pull it out. Will take like 10 min. Probably wont even charge you for it.
 
After some CRC or similar..

Another way to consider if one has the gear. A drill press and sharp bits

Drill two holes (1/8'') opposing each other across the head diameter as far apart as possible ( leaving some "meat" in the wall) .

A steel nail of appropriate size in each hole (lightly tappped in) gives one some leverage to swing a decent spanner on.
 
Doing machine repair for a living I get to mess with a lot of frozen screws. My favorite, never fail method is a small chisel and hammer. Strike the head near the edge to make a V shaped notch straight on. Than at an angle strike the side of the V notch in the direction to unloosen the screw. My favorite chisel for this is only about a 1/4 inch wide. Any good hardware store should have one. And by far, the best penetrating lube is Kroil, made by Kano Labs. Very expensive but worth every penny.

BillWojo
 
No way I would use any impacting tool on the side of a camera or electronic device!

On my motorbikes yes...camera ..never.
 
Well, I'm not familiar with his setup so I may have spoken out of line. I agree that any sudden shock to a camera is not a good thing. To much electronics and delicate optical stuff to mess up.
My other favorite trick is to drill it out with a LEFT HAND drill bit. When the drill catches, it usually backs it right out. A combination of the torque, vibration and heat from drilling will back it out unless it's galled up or corroded badly. They can be had at any decent machinist industrial supply house. From the looks of it, that screw is a grade 3 or so, very soft.

BillWojo
 
Hers a possible solution:
1. take the handle off
2. Drill and tap a smaller thread from the other side into the sheared bolt.
3. Screw a bolt or screw into this new thread and just keep turning- this will unscrew the sheared thread from the other side.
Cheers!
Rod

Ah! I have just re-read the post- I thought it was the top handle- thought it was too easy! so the side handle is still attached?
 
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You can buy damaged bolt remover sockets for about $25. From Sears Craftsman. I would try these first before drilling or whacking with a chisel. Or bring it to a Snap-On distributor and see what they have to help you. Bring a six pack of beer too.
 
I picked up a screw-extractor set over the weekend from my local big-box home improvement store. I'm moving offices this week so I will try to remove the bolt later.

Thank everyone for the various ideas on how to get this bolt out. Once its out, I'll be replacing both of the bolts with higher-quality ones so that this doesn't happen again.
 
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