Art Aldrich - AF100 Impressions in Real World Production

bgundu

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http://blog.p2pro.com/post/2135121533/af100-impressions-in-real-world-production

AF100 Impressions in Real World Production
Last weekend I had the opportunity to shoot with nearly finished Panasonic AF100 camera. Panasonic calls this a PL sample, the nearly finished and ready for mass production version.

The shoot was a series of holiday promo’s for the PBS/Sprout channel. We originally considered the Canon 5D for this shoot, due to time and budget constraints. I was hesitant to use the 5D for “on air” spots because of the technical problems like moire, aliasing, and judder.

The new plan was to use the HPX500 with a Pro35 adapter, and bring in some additional lighting and crew.

Luckily for me, Jan Crittenden was able to find an AF100 for me to use for the weekend.

Since the setups were fast and furious, and I did not have an AC on the crew, we decided to shoot with a combination of zoom and prime lenses. From Abel Cinetech in NYC, we rented a HotRod PL adapter, and an Angenieux 15-40 Optimo zoom and a 65mm Zeiss Super Speed prime. I also had the Lumix 14-140 zoom that came in my camera kit from Panasonic.

The Optimo is a big heavy zoom, and needed lens support. After a series of trials, the setup that worked the best was the Vocas DSLR riser in conjunction with a Red Rock Micro cheese plate and a Zacuto Zian lens support bracket. I also used a Red Rock Micro matte box in front since it had vertical adjustment unlike my Chrosziel.

Shooting with the AF100 was slightly different than a P2 camera in that the menu structure is different. Menus are easier to read, and more logically placed (imo).

I had an BT-LH80 monitor on the camera for focus and picture, and I used an BT-LH1700 for a client monitor. The LH80 I drove off the SDI output, and I used the HDMI output with an AJA HDMI-SDI converter to drive the 1700. The Video Out OSD works on all outputs via a menu setting.

We shot all the footage at 1080p24 at ISO800. Most images were clean in lit areas, with some grain in the shadows of dimly lit scenes. The grain was not objectionable.

The Optimo is fast for a zoom, at f2.6 all the way through, and looked great. Focus was not as shallow as I had hoped for some shots. The Zeiss Super Speeds are rated at f1.3 and looked great on the AF100, with lots of shallow focus when wide open.

The Lumix lens did not compare well to the Zeiss or Optimo lenses, as one would expect. The 14-140 is rated at f4 at the wide end, and slows to f5.8 at the long end.

Camera balance is going to be a challenge with heavy glass because the camera is so light. I am not sure what rig I will need to make this work with a variety of lenses. Maybe the new HotRod Cameras kit will work best.

I shot on 2 San Disk 8GB class 6 cards, which yielded about 45 minutes each, and one Panasonic 16GB class 10 card, which was good for about 100 minutes of recording in PH mode.

The footage was converted to ProRes LT in Final Cut Pro via the Log and Transfer. I would like to see more support for metadata in AVCCam in FCP. Actual, ANY support of metadata would be nice, as there is NO ACCCam metadata supported now.

There are a few things that I hope to see in a future version of the AF100, like dual HD-SDI outputs, and on board power, to drive a monitor. Neither of these are deal breakers, since there are work-arounds for both.

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Thank you for your operational review and congratulations on the job.

Please do share some footage or stills when you can.

Good shooting and best regards,

Leo
 
Oops. Just to be clear, I'm reposting this from his blog. Unfortunately I was nowhere near that camera or production :(
 
Thanx for review in the real world.

Thing that strikes me is how far off the sensor plane (film plane) the camera is set just to balance it on a head (as shown in your 2nd image).

This camera is going to require a counterbalance.

oooh ahhhhh... hmmmm!
 
Since the camera is so light compared to the weight of the lens/mattebox/FF/monitor in the 2nd photo, the center of gravity has moved forward of the camera several inches. Notice how the sliding bridge plate on the Sachtler tripod has been moved all the way back to help compensate and center that forward weight directly over the tripod head.
Once this balance is acheived, the operator should be able to unlock the head's tilt lever and the camera will stay level and not tilt up or down. Most professional tripod heads have sliding bridge plates for this purpose. For Bogen/Manfrotto heads w/o this adjustable bridge plate, they make an extra long camera plate that allows you to slide your camera back to achieve desired balance.

http://manfrotto.us/product/0/501PLONG/_/Video_Long_Rapid_Connect_Mounting_Plate


chris
 
That's a good argument for using an extra big battery with a D-tap, and a Nano mounted on the back end of the camera, which is what many people do on the EX1.
 
My initial thoughts were exactly that; mounting an Anton Bauer Hytron 140 on the rods behind the camera along with a recorder. After shooting for 5 hours on a single internal battery and hearing so many say the recorder adds little to the video quality, I'm undecided.

Balance is really not a problem, even with heavy lenses; a long base plate takes care of finding the center of mass, wherever it falls on the head. Perhaps that's an awkward construction: the words "falls" and "head" may obscure, if not actually suggest quite the opposite of what I intended.

After the camera arrives I'll play with it and see what configuration works best. I do like Anton Bauer, and since I shoot mainly off the dolly, weight is not a problem. Running all day on a single Hyton is a pretty thought, as is pulling out a CF card already in Pro Rez. Of course the file sizes are so small relative to shooting Red that ingest times are probably not significant.

Good shooting and best regards,

Leo
 
I am the creator of the original post, which was on my blog. I meant to cross post here, but someone beat me to the punch.

The AF100 will definitely need rigging to use with heavier glass. I am not sure how I would attempt to use this shoulder mounted.

With the Zeiss Super Speeds, the rig mounted fine with my Vocas riser from my HVX200 as you can see in this photo.
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That's a good argument for using an extra big battery with a D-tap, and a Nano mounted on the back end of the camera, which is what many people do on the EX1.

That's exactly what I plan on doing. Now, I just need to find batteries equivalent to the Swit ones I'm using for my ex1.
 
Matt,
Thanks for that zacuto tip. What are you using to support your lens in that photo? And what is the order of assembly for rigging these components together? Do you assemble in a more vertical position to relieve initial stress on the lens mount? That lens looks more than 2 lbs. : )

chris/ DC DP
 
The CamTram is great, especially if you travel. The Tram itself fits into a Pelican 2700 case, and I can walk into any home improvement center and get a ladder.

I have used ladders 20' long for shots. No slider can match that.
 
Thanx for review in the real world.

Thing that strikes me is how far off the sensor plane (film plane) the camera is set just to balance it on a head (as shown in your 2nd image).

This camera is going to require a counterbalance.

oooh ahhhhh... hmmmm!

Just a little point about my comment.

Its not about the ability to balance the camera (somehow). Its about the point of balance being so far off the "sensor plane" (What is called the film plane on a film camera). This is due to the light weight and ergonomics of the camera ( and many other video cameras).

It is ideal to pan around the "plane" and the plane is ideally set up as cloes as possible to 90 degrees vertical through the panning axis of the head. There are even heads (Ronfords etc) that allow the operator to achieve this for the tilt axis as well.

In table top / close work... if you pan / tilt with any off axis plane you get a "jib effect". ie a sweep". Not always a bad thing and some time done deliberately... but it needs a bit of compensating for if you are stuck with it and you dont want it.

Absolutely not a show stopper with this camera and easily enough rectified I think. I will be modifying my rods with a counterbalance weight and slinging all accesories rearward. Heavy rigs are better to operate in my experience.
 
Matt,
Thanks for that zacuto tip. What are you using to support your lens in that photo? And what is the order of assembly for rigging these components together? Do you assemble in a more vertical position to relieve initial stress on the lens mount? That lens looks more than 2 lbs. : )

chris/ DC DP

We are using the Zacuto Z-ZN-K Zian Lens Support Kit, which worked very well.

Assembly was Camera on Zacuto plate, then the Zacuto balance plate, mounted that on tripod, then put on the lens support, mounted the lens, and as someone took some of the weight off of the lens, we screwed the lens support into the lens.

Pretty simple.
 
Depending on what lens one uses, and I'm thinking about some 35 mm cine- zooms in particular, it night actually be easier to mount the lens and hang the camera off the back of the lens than the other way around.
 
Considering that you will most likely be using an adapter to mount the lens of your choice on this camera, I wouldn't recommend it.
 
You are not seriously suggesting mounting camera and lens to a head at a single point of contact are you?

Cameras with rods to support the entire rig of lens and camera and mattebox and accesories are designed to spread the load over a large foot print. Anything less will create instabilty and sensitivity to touch.

eg the focus puller would not even be able to touch the camera during operation .

Camera with a supported lens on rods is time proven to be the way to set up and it can be balanced out to the nodal point.
 
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