Anyone in NJ/NYC available to teach me how to get better footage?

S

sigamy

Well-known member
I've had my HMC40 for a few months. I'm still struggling to get footage that is as good as what I see others posting online.

I have Barry's book and I'm experimenting but I can't seem to get the clarity/resolution and the rich, vibrant colors that I want.

I'm a newbie when it comes to using manual controls but I'm willing to learn.

I'm wondering if anyone in northern NJ/NYC is available for some training?
 
sigamy- link us to some of your footage and let us know how you would like it to look. As opposed to what it looks like now.

I live in the city and would be willing to help, but there is a plethora of knowledge and advice on this board. You might not need any training.
 
Thanks very much guys. I'm looking for rich vibrant colors and a sharp detailed look.

I found this here at dvxuser, shot on HMC40 and the steadycam stuff starting around 50 sec mark looks amazing. I can't get anything this crisp, clear and detailed and with the "pop" in colors I see here:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=210652

Here is some footage, sorry this is home movie stuff:

Testing out scene files. Using cinema gamma makes the dog more red than he is in real life, but it does make other colors pop more in shrubs and flowers. Last clip shows the dog's real color. Sorry ,this is very shaky as I was looking for buttons, etc:
http://gallery.me.com/brian.andrews29#100477

Shot on a drizzly/cloudy day but colors are more "washed out" than I'd like:
http://gallery.me.com/brian.andrews29#100447

I think I shot this in auto mode, pretty happy with this. Good colors and good clarity
http://gallery.me.com/brian.andrews29#100435

Awakened: I'm in Essex Cty and pass Morristown every day to head to work in Bridgewater.
 
Sigamy,

Looking at the first few seconds of clip one, I think you are underexposed a little bit.

The second clip, during the first few seconds is a little under also. The next scene at 00:13 of the kids on the bench is well exposed. Do you notice how much more vivid it is than the first clip. Sorry I didn't have time for it all.

Chroma, gamma and matrix are the primary drivers of more saturation if that is what you are after. Increasing the contrast within reason will make the colors pop out more also. Lowering the pedestal will do that, but you can get some of the same effects with the gamma settings. I am not a fan of the cine-gamma settings and prefer bpress most of the time. Bpress will brighten your midtones and crush the blacks slightly, which for me is a good look.

For myself, I like things sharp, with medium saturation and medium contrast, and not the soft filmic look,...maybe someday. I don't do anything like movies anyway.

Living west of the Cascades in Washington the State, everything outdoors is pretty green to start with. In any event, here is a scene file I have been working on, and is still a work in progress:

detail +2
v-detail +2
coring +2
chroma +2
phase 0
color temp -1 or 0
pedestal -5
iris 0
gamma bpress
knee mid
matrix cine
skin on

Shoot 720/30pn

I have found this to be sharp, not much noise, somewhat saturated, some contrast, but the blacks are not totally crushed. I set my zebras at 90% and just barely kiss them.

If anyone wants to add or make a suggestion, I am all ears.....er eyes.

Grant
 
Part of the trick with getting a shot to look "right" really is the exposure. This is a concept that alot of people dont know how to do, and its the most essential, and basic function of cinematography/photography. Really nailing exposure gives footage a punch that it otherwise wouldnt have.

The thing about exposure is that you have to have experience to "get it right". Its strange actually, a half stop makes all the difference in the world, especially with the limited latitude we have in Video... so i say keep shooting, dont worry too much about your settings, and learn to use your Zebras, in the field, and how they corrolate to your recorded image back home at the edit bay.

When i was shooting on the HVX alot, i knew my camera inside out backwards, in the dark, in the rain, in the sun, and exactly how its chips exposed in all different conditions. Video sensors because of their electronic nature become more sensitive in higher ambient light, so what this means is, when its brighter outside, the image will burn out ot white faster than it will in a dimmer "lowlight" scenario, with controlled lighting. Learning how it will react will get you better images in camera everytime.

Keep practicing, and keep meticuous notes while running tests. and i dont mean, point the camera out the window. i mean, get a pretty girl, sit her in a chair, give her a Cosmo, and record in a given lighting scenario, how the image reacts when under exposed, over exposed, 1/2 stop over, 1/2stop under, and how eachone gives you freedoms, and limitations in post. when you find the right combination of how to expose vs how you treat your footage in post, you will wind up with amazing images.

-Timur
 
Grant and Timur: thank you very much for taking the time to give some tips and advice. It is really great that pros are williing to help out us newbie hobbists.
 
I also suggest using a tripod for some of your shots.

In addition, it appears you are using iMovie for editing.

I strongly suggest, if you are serious about this, a better editing app - either FCE, FCP, or Premiere Mac

At the very least, it will permit you to color correct the footage, which will greatly assist in what you want.
 
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