FS7: Another Baseplate/Shoulder pad/Rig thread for FS7 thread

Frankly when i am using it for any length of time I offset the front heaviness of this and other cameras with a monopod to a fanny pack. That's more stable and comfortable even than perfectly balanced cameras on the shoulder and I used to do it with classic B4 2/3" inch cameras as well. Everybody picks their own poison and those calling others unprofessional should check the mirror.
 
The problem with trying to balance a camera is that the length and weight of each lens is unique. My solution is a vertical cheese plate mounted on rear rails that you can slide forward or back to bbalance. Batteries and Mic receivers can be mounted on the cheese plate. Balance adjustments are done in seconds.
 
My solution is that my Zacuto QR shoulder pad has the rails adapter and can be positioned along about 10cm of space under the camera in 5secs depending On the lens.
 
VinceinLA said:
This is 100% useless, with all due respect. If you use this in a professional environment you will end up in serious trouble. It may be fine for a few minutes here and there but that pad is WAY off from where it needs to be.

For any of you who don't do this stuff often, here is a piece of pro advice for you:

Any camera that is being set up for handheld use MUST be able to sit on your shoulder with NO support of any kind from your arms in testing for balance. The balance point MUST be directly over your shoulder, no exceptions. If you dont follow this, you are killing yourself, your shoot and making yourself look about as expereinced as a first year cinematography student. It amazes me how many people on these forums make life hell for no reason other than ego.
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GOD has spoken.
 
Just took delivery of the Shape hand grip replacement for the FS7. I am thrilled at the form factor. It brings the grip about an inch from the camera body so it no longer interferes with the camera or rail devices but the big deal is it has a spring loaded adjustment so you can eliminate the pesky screw when needing to adjust on the fly or bring the grip around for tripod use.
Can't recommend it highly enough and Shape ain't paying me squat for the endorsement.

I'd add a picture but I find this site difficult to navigate and haven't figured out how to post a jpg as yet.
 
B&H now sells it with free shipping. It doesn't interfere with my tilts rig like the regular arm. Fast and easy, awesome.
 
What is everyone doing for lens support? I see some EF lenses on metabones adapters without any support...I love my Canon 70-200, but I don't trust an e-mount (or the adapter).

I don't have a higher end tripod, just a Cartoni F101 (3/8 and 1/4 20). I'd love to have a minimal rail system so I can get a lens support. Anyone have a good option? To me, the Denz plate looks like the best option.
 
bnaro said:
What is everyone doing for lens support? I see some EF lenses on metabones adapters without any support...I love my Canon 70-200, but I don't trust an e-mount (or the adapter).

I don't have a higher end tripod, just a Cartoni F101 (3/8 and 1/4 20). I'd love to have a minimal rail system so I can get a lens support. Anyone have a good option? To me, the Denz plate looks like the best option.
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Check out my system, it is affordable and very rugged but light. I make a special Metabones support and it also works for long lens support:
http://www.westsideavstore.com/index.php?p=product&id=97

FS7Lenssupport5.jpg

FS7MattBox.jpg

sony fs7 lens support and metabones support.jpg
 
bnaro said:
What is everyone doing for lens support? I see some EF lenses on metabones adapters without any support...I love my Canon 70-200, but I don't trust an e-mount (or the adapter).

I don't have a higher end tripod, just a Cartoni F101 (3/8 and 1/4 20). I'd love to have a minimal rail system so I can get a lens support. Anyone have a good option? To me, the Denz plate looks like the best option.
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Shape also has a lightweight baseplate that is similar to the Denz but with rosettes on either side (which makes it a bit thicker as well). I have one on order from Adorama, am hoping that this will be a good solution to add a handle on the left side and a rod system for ff/mattebox and still be able to use the built in shoulder pad. Really all I think I need is something on the left so I can rest the damn thing on the ground and some rods up front for hand held work. For now.

http://www.shapewlb.com/en/product/...lightweight-plate_585.aspx?id_page_parent=603
 
A truly epic thread. Some extremely useful information. Thank you.
It would take an age to go through all these responses, so if you will forgive me if this has already been asked and answered.

We have decided to get the Zacuto Z-VCT Universal Plate as the prefered handheld baseplate for the FS7 which suits our style of work. But just wanted to know if it is still possible with the baseplate attached we can still use the remote arm in the normal FS7 rosette position? We use the arm parallel (horizontal) with the lens.
Or do we need to order the additional rosette for attachment to the Zacuto baseplate?

Claire
 
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With the Zacuto plate, you can't use the FS7 arm on the Sony rosette. Zacuto sells a rod-mounted rosette. The problem is the baseplate protrudes too far. I understand they are also working on a piece for the original rosette to extend past the baseplate protrusion.

Best to check with Zacuto before ordering.

Ned Soltz
 
nsoltz said:
With the Zacuto plate, you can't use the FS7 arm on the Sony rosette. Zacuto sells a rod-mounted rosette. The problem is the baseplate protrudes too far. I understand they are also working on a piece for the original rosette to extend past the baseplate protrusion.

Best to check with Zacuto before ordering.

Ned Soltz
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Thanks Ned, but I've just had a look at the logistics of their rod-mounted rosette and it would not work for us - it extends the remote arm way to far ahead and would cause the right arm to be extended far too much.

I've dropped Zacuto an email but quite honestly, it's looking like the Z VCT baseplate might not be the solution after all. I know all of you have had a good go at this, but it's looking like if you push the centre of balance to the lens mount position, you loose ready access to the Gain/WB toggles and the ND filter wheel as your head is right up against them.

But yes, others' solutions may not be someone else's.

Claire
 
Hi Ned,

I had a reply from Zacuto and according to them you CAN fix the remote arm to the camera body rosette in the manner I want - that is, with the arm horizontal/parallel to the lens. Yes. I can see you can't angle it down, but it will (according to them) fix level to the lens assembly. So that's good news for us.

Thank you for your suggestion to drop them an email.

Claire
 
Glad that Zacuto had an answer. I really like them and their products but definitely from the description of the complete FS7 recoil rig, it seemed that you needed the rod mounted assembly. Personally, I want the arm down. Juan Martinez showed me that a comfortable position for holding the camera is to have your right arm at a 90 degree angle.

I am personally tending toward buying the Shape replacement handle to make it easier to adjust handle angle and length.

Anyway, glad that they gave you a suggestion that works for you.

Ned
 
Hi Claire - Mandy here from Zacuto. If you balance the camera that moves the camera back on your shoulder requiring the FS7 arm to move forward. The Rosette Minimount where you attach the FS7 arm, is never too far forward because you can collapse the FS7 arm and slide the Rosette Minimount where you need it on along the rods. Check out this balance video here- https://vimeo.com/119890752. Please let me know if you have any questions- more than happy to help mandy@zacuto.com
 
That looks well balanced - but how do you operate the camera? All the buttons are back behind his ear.
 
On the subject of rigging (and I didn't want to start a new thread), I have been using Redrock Micro, Micro Ties to clamp down the viewfinder cable as I found it annoying to keep pushing it out of the way!

IMG_9511-1.jpg

IMG_9508-1.jpg
 
mrogers said:
Hi Claire - Mandy here from Zacuto. If you balance the camera that moves the camera back on your shoulder requiring the FS7 arm to move forward. The Rosette Minimount where you attach the FS7 arm, is never too far forward because you can collapse the FS7 arm and slide the Rosette Minimount where you need it on along the rods. Check out this balance video here- https://vimeo.com/119890752. Please let me know if you have any questions- more than happy to help mandy@zacuto.com
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Hi Mandy,

Yes thanks, we did exchange emails and we did purchase the (new) Zacuto Universal Plate (from CVP, London).

Just a little feedback:

First, the plate makes a vast difference in that the shoulder support point is much closer to the centre of balance on the camera (at the lens fixing position) and a lot more comfortable too. We also purchased the Zacuto VCT14 quick release tripod plate which works well. However, just a couple of small points. If like me you are a person of a certain age then the diopter is required. In fact I've fitted a cheap 52mm macro close-up +2 lens as the one Sony ship with the VF is +1 and not strong enough. You could leave the +1 in and use your "normal" reading glasses but it's another physical barrier etc. The lens easily screws out if you remove the rubber cushion and you can fit a +2 or stack with the original and have +3. These lenses come in a little kit with a variety of sizes and are fairly cheap - £10 or less.

What I have found is that with the new better-balanced shoulder position, the Sony VF/Diopter is too close to the eye forcing the head slightly back - this is asking for trouble as this eventually puts pressure on the upper part of the spine. Therefore we needed to get the VF/Diopter as far forward on the rig using Sony's existing fixings and angle it down slightly giving a few extra millimeters distance. Or the alternative as we see in the examples is to purchase another less chunky VF such as the Zacuto.

I don't want to get to the point of replacing the VF just yet and have more expense, as we are getting the results needed at this time albeit a little fine tuning is still needed.

The remote arm is horizontal/parallel to the lens (my preference) fixed to the original camera body rosette fixing point and with the correct angle of the hand grip the arm is comfortably tucked into the side and the elbow is almost at right angles. I am 5'6" tall and weigh about 120lbs and it works fine (for me), even though all told the rig on the shoulder weighs about 7.5Kg (with the Sony SEL 28-135mm lens and Matte Box). Likely we will fit extra short rails at the rear with weight and use this to counter balance the rig. So in total, the final weight will be about 8.5Kg.

To answer Joe's point, yes, there is the drawback in this position, you cannot easily get to the Gain or WB toggles as your head is well up against the camera body, although it's easy to operate the ND Filter wheel and the White Balance button. I suppose the answer is to put the Gain and WB select on the remote arm (dial and assignable button) should you need to change gain or colour balance during a shot or sequence.

We are not powering any third party device therefore do not require to fix V-Lock power at the rear, even though this probably will provide a useful counter balance. We use Sony BPU90s and 60s as standard.

I'll post up a picture once we have the counter balance on the rig (next week).

Claire
 
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IMO the length of the chimney and the shortness of the cable - limit the geometry that one is unlikely to make a balanced rig without a huge countermass or a replacement to the sony chimney (or an SDI EVF)

that is just basic phyics.

Mandy - we need a short clip on evf finder!

S
 
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