Anamorphic Shootout

Yeah, I agree about Vimeo. That way folks could download the original material and watch at a much better quality.
 
Do you have any pictures of your rig? Which Lomo square front lens do you use on your sigma?

I will take some and post them. It will likely be this weekend.

Yeah, I agree about Vimeo. That way folks could download the original material and watch at a much better quality.

OK. I'll have to look into that. I have an account, but it's a freebie. I don't think I have that ability with a free one. Point well taken Ian-T. :)
 
Lomo (Square front) with Sigma 35-105 F2.8 and Nikon 50mm F2.0. It's mounted on a bracket that I bought from India. It works fine for this...not sure yet if I'd recommend it...I'll keep you all up to date on its performance/usefullness. Enjoy!

LomoA.jpg


LomoB.jpg


LomoC.jpg


LomoD.jpg


LomoE.JPG


LomoF.JPG
 
wow! great! really waiting for performance tests!

btw, the free vimeo account allows you to upload one HD footage every week.
 
I was just curious. When talking about diopters for closer focusing, you're just talking about the macro lens attachments, correct? like the +1 +2 +4 +10 sets. will those work, or are the diopters different.
 
I was just curious. When talking about diopters for closer focusing, you're just talking about the macro lens attachments, correct? like the +1 +2 +4 +10 sets. will those work, or are the diopters different.

Diopters are NOT different. It's just a different name for them. That is correct.
 
Some diopters are better because they are made of two glass elements. I think these are usually referred to as achromats. The image quality is better with these as there is less chormatic aberration.
 
Update on the Hypergonar.
a 69-77 step ring arrived today and floats over the hypergonar rear thread.
67mm too tight and this 69 is already too large... hmmhmh tricky !
adapter is so heavy i won't trust epoxying the ring.
so back to point zero waiting for a rail front support bracket to show up anyday now.
How's yours doing ??
 
Update on the Hypergonar.
a 69-77 step ring arrived today and floats over the hypergonar rear thread.
67mm too tight and this 69 is already too large... hmmhmh tricky !
adapter is so heavy i won't trust epoxying the ring.
so back to point zero waiting for a rail front support bracket to show up anyday now.
How's yours doing ??

I'm heading to work. Quick update: I found the same thing with rings...having said that, I think I have a solution. I have 3 support methods that I'm testing...I think I have a winner. I'll post pics later. I didn't get a chance to check late last night, but I may need one more ring before I can use this solution. I'll get back with you all later. Good news...I am gaining ground. Bad news...as rhervag has mentioned figuring this out for the first time is a little tricky.
 
Can someone explain the benefits of shooting anamorphic on the 7D?

I understand that you are using the entire 16x9 frame to get your 2.40:1, however the benefits seem to be countered by the softness the adapter produces in the end.
 
can't explain anything as it depends much more on what you want.
maybe consider the mild softness is a relative benefit to some of us too like the lower contrast and flare & streaks, all defects that are giving character to the image...
i mean some complain the 5D has too contrasty of an image and too much sharpening like watching the news on HDTV... so they will be using super flat picture styles and nudging down the presets and later on work that back in post and slap the latest plugins...
hmm
adding anamorphic adapters is another path of optical goodness to balance such issues and open a new world of pseudo vintage looks without too much of digital processing down the road.
it's amazing how soft the mastered version of famous blockbusters really is when put under close inspection. the image cadence makes it appear crisper but the paused image is not that sharp at all. so i would not worry over snapshots unless it detracts from the subject being depicted...
 
You guys rock, I have been really wanting to shoot Anamorphic with my 5d for a long time. Anyone shot an HDRI probe and tried to track any footage from these setups? I am an animator so tracking/integration is a big deal. I hear even pro anamorphics have high distortion that makes tracking/integration hard. Makes me wonder if I would be able to use any of these lenses for CG work.

If anyone wants to shoot something, post it to Vimeo, and provide an HDRI of the location I will track and composite some CG as a test.
 
Lomo (Square front) with Sigma 35-105 F2.8 and Nikon 50mm F2.0. It's mounted on a bracket that I bought from India. It works fine for this...not sure yet if I'd recommend it...I'll keep you all up to date on its performance/usefullness. Enjoy!


Can't wait to see what images this yields. Looks like a Russian battleship :shocked:
 
You guys rock, I have been really wanting to shoot Anamorphic with my 5d for a long time. Anyone shot an HDRI probe and tried to track any footage from these setups? I am an animator so tracking/integration is a big deal. I hear even pro anamorphics have high distortion that makes tracking/integration hard. Makes me wonder if I would be able to use any of these lenses for CG work.

If anyone wants to shoot something, post it to Vimeo, and provide an HDRI of the location I will track and composite some CG as a test.

Hey rbrady! I'll be glad to do this. PM me and we'll work out the details. I've never done any footy specifically for CG, so you'll need to tell me what to watch out for. I have a shoot today, so I might not get back to you until later today or tomorrow. It should be interesting to try.
 
how do i stretch anamorphic pics in lightroom?

i just need a 1.5x stretch. basically 4:3 to 16x9 cause thats what works in fcp for video but now i have raw photos i want to stretch.
 
how do i stretch anamorphic pics in lightroom?

i just need a 1.5x stretch. basically 4:3 to 16x9 cause thats what works in fcp for video but now i have raw photos i want to stretch.

I'm pretty sure you can't stretch in lightroom. That program was not designed for non square images. However, it doesn't mean you can't use it to do your grading and then stretch/crop in another program.
 
don't you have like photoshop or the gimp or some other picture editor ?
you'd just resize the picture on a single axis to obtain the right ratio.
create an action with the correct values to batch convert folders of pictures easily too.
 
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