Anamorphic Shootout

Wait, so you can get true anamorphic by attaching an ag-7200(anamorphic adapater for the DVX??!?) via a step down ring to nikon/canon lenses? Is that for real?
 
Hello everyone! First post here on dvxuser :)

I`m really curious about these anamorphic adapters and what they are good for. Is there a great light loss involved here?
Most test footage I`ve seen is at the softer side. Is this due to the glass and/or the stretch-prosess in post?
Do you focus with the adapter or with the lense as normal?

Great thread!
 
Very good thread, here's my little contribution... 7D + Kowa 16H/8Z prominar anamorphic 2x (for scope format in between double side by side pictures).
http://www.vimeo.com/8700480

light loss is minimal from the glass really but i'd say the major issue is having to focus both the taking lens and the adapter to get enough sharpness you must stop down quite a bit.
 
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So let me get this Straight, These Adapters were not intended to be on cameras BUT Projectors instead! I see the videos and it looks like the isco 36 and 42 are popular and also the AF-7200 from panasonic.
 
So let me get this Straight, These Adapters were not intended to be on cameras BUT Projectors instead! I see the videos and it looks like the isco 36 and 42 are popular and also the AF-7200 from panasonic.
nope! most of them are for movie theatres right but some of them where designed for both shooting and projecting.
the panasonic AG7200 is a 4:3 to 16:9 conversion lens for shooting SD wide aspect ratio not meant to project anything and so is the optex and various generic screw on adapters.
 
nope! most of them are for movie theatres right but some of them where designed for both shooting and projecting.
the panasonic AG7200 is a 4:3 to 16:9 conversion lens for shooting SD wide aspect ratio not meant to project anything and so is the optex and various generic screw on adapters.


Ok... But the ISCO website most of those seemed for Projection.. IU Knew the Panasonic was for shooting at least .. So , Unless we can adapt a PL mount without Hacking the 7d in order to Use Anamorphic $$$$ lenses we can get close enough Using these Adapters.. I get it..

I am going to Shoot a Martial Arts Film In LA in about 3 months with the 7d and would love to Shoot 2.35:1
 
OK...a few basic for anamorphic newbs:

There are two types of anamorphic lenses. (From a focusing standpoint)
1. Focus through
2. Standard (I haven't heard this referred to with any particular name)

A focus through anamorphic lens (the Panasonic, Optex, Generic)...these are focus through lenses. This means that in order to focus, you only have to focus the lens closest to the camera, (connected to your camera). There is no method to focus on the anamorphic lens if you WANTED to. An interesting note about these lenses, (someone with a Panasonic or Optex or Century will have to test this also, I've only tested the Generic adapter)....if you are mounted to a zoom lens, you CANNOT zoom, then focus. In my opinion, it makes it easier to frame shots if you CAN zoom in and out and still focus.

A standard lens (as far as focus), requires that you focus BOTH lenses. The anamorphic lens, and the lens connected to the camera. I have heard some people suggest that you can focus the lens closest the camera first, set the distance on the anamorphic lens and that's it. I have NOT found that to be consistent across each of these lenses. I find it easier to set the distance, (this is the way these lenses focus), then focus the lens closest to the camera. So if I am 10 ft from the item that I want in focus, I rotate the anamorphic lens until it says 10ft, I attach it to the front of my lens, then I use the focus ring on the lens attached to my camera.

I hope this helps understand some basics.

Some other things to note (VERY IMPORTANT)....anamorphic lenses have different "minimum" focus distances. In other words, some lenses do NOT allow you to focus any object that is closer than 50 feet. If you are only shoot landscapes....fine. If you want to shoot subjects close up, this can be a problem. The current solution to this problem is to use diopters. (+1, +2, +4, +10) That's fine....just be aware that the focus distance on a lens with a 50ft focus distance with a +1 diopter (from preliminary tests) is some where around 3 feet. On small items that's fine...on anything else, that's not very usable. I'll do more tests and post footy in the future. (Kollmorgen 50-500ft focus distance.)

So remember....minimum focus distance is KEY. Don't expect a diopter to "fix" this. It will help, but only is very specific situations.
 
Ok... But the ISCO website most of those seemed for Projection.. IU Knew the Panasonic was for shooting at least .. So , Unless we can adapt a PL mount without Hacking the 7d in order to Use Anamorphic $$$$ lenses we can get close enough Using these Adapters.. I get it..

I am going to Shoot a Martial Arts Film In LA in about 3 months with the 7d and would love to Shoot 2.35:1

the current line of anamorphics are big top of the line expensive things to own and better be rented for the casual shooter.
here we're mostly discussing about re-purposing cheaper obsolete vintage glass that might be found in good condition despite age and still offer an alternative route to make a more filmic image.
some of such lenses are from the movies golden 50s, 60s, 70s etc.. while the panny / optex etc.. were developped for video and televison. the variety of construction and optics allow for a myriad of options to be experimented with. we're in an exciting phase right now as most of us are being empowered with interchangeable lenses on the cheap until the next big thing comes around the corner...
 
hhl ,did you tried to chop off half of anamorphic tube with front glass to make i possible to go closer to rear glass so you could focus on close objects ? you need to shorten the distance between rear and front anamorphic glass to focus closer,yo can chop off tube or move front glass deeper into tube.
 
hhl ,did you tried to chop off half of anamorphic tube with front glass to make i possible to go closer to rear glass so you could focus on close objects ? you need to shorten the distance between rear and front anamorphic glass to focus closer,yo can chop off tube or move front glass deeper into tube.

I'm open to trying new things to make it work better....or testing to see if it helps. Could you detail this a little clearer. I'm not sure I understand.

Are you saying to basically put "glass on glass", (not quite but almost) to improve its ability to focus? If so....I have several that I am doing that with. It doesn't see to help "specifically"....it may in some cases....in other cases, not so much. If you mean something else....please detail....I'll give it a try. :)
 
no , front and rear anamorphic glass must be closer to each other if you want to focus closer with SLR lens, so you have to move front glass closer or shorten tube which holds front glass, but you would have to disassemble anamorphic lenses to get a clue.Its not that complicated.
You would be able to focus closer if you could only move anamorphic front and rear glass closer to each other.
You can see on some anamorphic projector lenses that if you will turn focus on anamorphic then front anamorphic glass comes closer to rear anamorphic glass and then you can focus on closer subjects,you can disassemble your anamorphic lens and try if tube with fron glass would go deeper to be closer to rear glass. Front anamorphic element is on tube which can be sawed off , i didnt did that yet but i will when ill get DSLR again.
If only canon would have 3:2 ratio recording then it would be perfect.
 
the current line of anamorphics are big top of the line expensive things to own and better be rented for the casual shooter.
here we're mostly discussing about re-purposing cheaper obsolete vintage glass that might be found in good condition despite age and still offer an alternative route to make a more filmic image.
some of such lenses are from the movies golden 50s, 60s, 70s etc.. while the panny / optex etc.. were developped for video and televison. the variety of construction and optics allow for a myriad of options to be experimented with. we're in an exciting phase right now as most of us are being empowered with interchangeable lenses on the cheap until the next big thing comes around the corner...


Yes These are exciting Times!! I dove right In
 
no , front and rear anamorphic glass must be closer to each other if you want to focus closer with SLR lens, so you have to move front glass closer or shorten tube which holds front glass, but you would have to disassemble anamorphic lenses to get a clue.Its not that complicated.
You would be able to focus closer if you could only move anamorphic front and rear glass closer to each other.
You can see on some anamorphic projector lenses that if you will turn focus on anamorphic then front anamorphic glass comes closer to rear anamorphic glass and then you can focus on closer subjects,you can disassemble your anamorphic lens and try if tube with fron glass would go deeper to be closer to rear glass. Front anamorphic element is on tube which can be sawed off , i didnt did that yet but i will when ill get DSLR again.
If only canon would have 3:2 ratio recording then it would be perfect.

I see. I have a lens on the way that I'll have to investigate. Also...3:2 ratio....I believe that the Pentax Kx and the Canon something or other (DSLRs) also does it. :)
 
ISCO Ultra MC 2x 35mm Anamorphic Lens Adapter

Im thinking of Buying this Lense it has its own Focus ring .. What do you Guys think
 
ISCO Ultra MC 2x 35mm Anamorphic Lens Adapter

Im thinking of Buying this Lense it has its own Focus ring .. What do you Guys think

what about the Kollmorgen 2x ...

I'll let you know as soon I my freaking package arrives. (I order both of these 4 weeks ago...shipping was delayed.) So if you want to "hang out" for a while, I'll let you know as soon as I receive it and have a chance to shoot with it/them. :) Happy hunting!
 
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