AG-AC90 starts shipping tomorrow. How many have one on order?

Nope I never touched digital zoom in that sample video. It went wide, wide, medium, full tele. Never moved one inch towards the water. When I did a 2x digital zoom (not in the video), there was minimal quality loss and an amazing reach!
magicdavek said:
DannayZay,

Let me get this straight. The wide shot jumps to zoom. Then you hit the 2x digital zoom? If this is the case, that's an amazing shot. I've not seen digital zoom that good. I had it up on 1080p on YouTube and I was assuming that you had gotten closer to the water for that third shot of the boat!

Like Zim, I'm feeling confident this will be my replacement to my DVX100A.
Click to expand...
 
Digital zoom is like any other digital zoom -- big drop in resolution. Totally usable when shooting standard-def, but in HD, you'll notice the softness.

AC90 is ridiculously sharp. It's hyper crisp. Arguably I'm gonna say it's sharper than the AC130/AC160/HPX250. Not tremendously, but a little.

And reviewing my footage, it's no longer recommended to get a 3-stop (or at least a 2-stop) filter, it's mandatory. The shutter goes too short when shooting in daylight, and it makes the motion too choppy. Variable ND's are useless, especially on a camera this sharp, so just get a good fixed 2-stop or 3-stop Heliopan or Schneider and call it good.

The biggest surprise is DRS. It's always been an interesting technology that has been useful only in emergencies, because the boosting of the shadows caused too much noise. And it does still cause more noise, but -- not much more. I used DRS 3 in broad daylight and was quite surprised at just how usable the shot is... the noise reduction in the AC90 is quite amazing.

Overall, I really like this camera. The sharpness performance is simply top notch, and the weight and size are comfortable in a pro camcorder (a bit large for a travel camcorder, but very much DVX-sized which is a great size for a handheld camera). The image stabilizer and automatic settings are really effective. Only real flaw is the lack of a strong-enough ND filter; I would not recommend using the AC90 for shooting outdoors in broad daylight without it. I've got some really amazing shots that are (IMO) not usable because of the choppiness of the shutter... I specifically wanted to test the camera as-is, without having to involve additional accessories, and as such it's okay, this was just test footage, but -- man is it incredibly sharp and just lovely. If I'd had the ND filter in, so the shutter speed was more reasonable (1/60 to 1/120) it would have been stellar. I'll try to post some stills when I get back. Palm trees, Caribbean sea, pristine white sand, brilliant blue sky, and puffy white clouds... the AC90 just ate it up.

For the price, this camera is really great deal.
 
Hello there,
i followed this thread and i may (literally) bring some light into the darkness. The fact that the AG-AC90 is really doing good at low light is no miracle. It's because the sensor is not a 1/4.7". In fact its the same sensor thats working in the Z10000. => 1/4.1". A german video magazine (videoaktiv) couldn't believe that the sensor should be 1/4.7" because Panasonic don't have any sensor this size in their portfolio. So they asked Panasonic Germany. And according to Panasonic Germany it's indeed a mistake. It's a 1/4.1" sensor. The whole cam is a 2d version of the Z10000. In Germany and Austria they are promoting the Z10000 and the AG-AC90 to be the exact same cameras apart from the 3d feature.
Greetings from germany.
P.S. (I apologize for my grammar, i hope i could make myself understandable)

Dennis
 
dartheasyliving said:
It's because the sensor is not a 1/4.7". In fact its the same sensor thats working in the Z10000. => 1/4.1". A german video magazine (videoaktiv) couldn't believe that the sensor should be 1/4.7" because Panasonic don't have any sensor this size in their portfolio. So they asked Panasonic Germany. And according to Panasonic Germany it's indeed a mistake. It's a 1/4.1" sensor. The whole cam is a 2d version of the Z10000. In Germany and Austria they are promoting the Z10000 and the AG-AC90 to be the exact same cameras apart from the 3d feature.
Click to expand...

That would certainly be welcome news. It would be nice to have Jan or Barry report on that too.
 
Barry is 100% correct as it relates to the ND filters. I figured that out the first sunny day. My shutter was too high for my liking and the Iris too high. I believe it has something to do with the chips vs. contrast.

I purchased the TIFFEN ND filter kit as part of my arsenal. Worth the money and it works in tandem with the camera. Easy to screw on...BUT.....WARNING.....do not over-tighten the filters because the lens hood is NOT removable and you will not be able to use the PALM METHOD to loosen the filters.

As a side note: This camera is SHARP in picture quality and low grain in the higher GAIN settings. This is something we will have to get accustomed to vs. our past experience. The Intelligent Auto is awesome but less saturation. As I have written, the scene files from my 130 work but the saturation has to be lowered somewhat. The form factor of this camera is nothing short of comfortable-VERY comfortable and NOT front heavy for shoulder mounts.
 
Agree with Barry, I did use a .6 ND filter, perhaps not quite enough, but mostly sufficient. At 1080/p60, you can get away with a little higher shutter (1/120) than the usual 1/60 sec, while maintaining natural motion smoothness. DRS...try DRS 2, slightly moderated look, very natural, and usually enough for high contrast scenes, like sun and snow. The DRS implementation is stellar because with very little noise added it spans a broad enough range of contrast to be useful to cover practically any (or at least many) situation(s).

Pros:

Highlight handling, cloud detail excellent as noted.
Shadow detail also excellent, acceptable low noise.
Low light, 1/4.7(4.1) inch chips should not be this good!
Flare control, nano coating...really has helped, high contrast is preserved, shooting toward the sun no problem.
Lens, sharp throughout the range, CA well controlled.
Zoom rocker is smooth, good slow speed zoom possible.
Solid build and construction, light weight.
AVCHD 2.0 h.264 codec, grades effectively.
Affordable Price!

The two Cons (and no camera is perfect) are:

1.) You can't have the EVF and LCD both on at the same time. It means you have to close the LCD (at least partially) before you can use the EVF.
2.) The focus is not parfocal, focus plane will shift as the zoom range changes. Auto focus is fast and non-hunting in good light, but tends to lock on the closest object to the lens. So for example, tall grasses in front of your subject will grab the attention of the auto focus. If you put the AC90 in manual focus mode, no problem unless you change the zoom. No zoom-to-focus, use the digital 10x digital magnification instead.
 
dartheasyliving said:
Hello there,
i followed this thread and i may (literally) bring some light into the darkness. The fact that the AG-AC90 is really doing good at low light is no miracle. It's because the sensor is not a 1/4.7". In fact its the same sensor thats working in the Z10000. => 1/4.1". A german video magazine (videoaktiv) couldn't believe that the sensor should be 1/4.7" because Panasonic don't have any sensor this size in their portfolio. So they asked Panasonic Germany. And according to Panasonic Germany it's indeed a mistake. It's a 1/4.1" sensor. The whole cam is a 2d version of the Z10000. In Germany and Austria they are promoting the Z10000 and the AG-AC90 to be the exact same cameras apart from the 3d feature.
Greetings from germany.
P.S. (I apologize for my grammar, i hope i could make myself understandable)

Dennis
Click to expand...

I'll have to research this myself by reading what you read but it wouldn't surprise me since I saw 2 different specs for the chips. Some specs shows 2.19 and other specs shows 2.6 something. Both specs are on official Panasonic sites. Knowing that, it's not surprising that they'd also be a mistake on the chip sizes.

I'm still hoping it'll be compared to the X900 soon from some place especially in the 1080 60p mode. I can care less about the comparisons of 24p because I already know it'll be much better on the AC90.
 
If I may add. I assigned USER#1 as a TURBO TYPE FOCUS BUTTON-PUSH AUTO. Not to be confused with the already assigned Push Focus Button-this is different and FAST to respond when in manual focus and you need just a little assist to get back on track. I use manual focus but the aforementioned button is super-fast when utilzed!
 
Barry_Green said:
And reviewing my footage, it's no longer recommended to get a 3-stop (or at least a 2-stop) filter, it's mandatory. The shutter goes too short when shooting in daylight, and it makes the motion too choppy. Variable ND's are useless, especially on a camera this sharp, so just get a good fixed 2-stop or 3-stop Heliopan or Schneider and call it good.
Click to expand...
I should be ordering tomorrow from B&H. I am now a bit more curious as with your experience with the beach and being Texas and lots of sun why you wouldn't be going with a 6ND (1.8) or even another higher one too. I am in Phoenix, Arizona and we have tons of light here in the desert.
BTW I am sure going to get your book when it comes out.

Edit 11-4-21: When I was going over my order with B&H the Video Pro associate I talked to talked me out of an ND filter and instead was recommending an circular polarizer. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/B-W-77mm-MRC-Circular-Polarizer-Filter-Review.aspx, because they have free shipping on most of their filters I delayed in purchasing one. I've read about this debate somewhere before and I remember NDs were a better option, I tried to argue for this, but he was insistent. What do you guys think? He was talking about the loss of depth of field with an ND. I told him I live in a sunny climate and that did not phase him either.
 
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Lou Bruno said:
If I may add. I assigned USER#1 as a TURBO TYPE FOCUS BUTTON-PUSH AUTO. Not to be confused with the already assigned Push Focus Button-this is different and FAST to respond when in manual focus and you need just a little assist to get back on track. I use manual focus but the aforementioned button is super-fast when utilzed!
Click to expand...

I don't see this option for "TURBO TYPE FOCUS BUTTON-PUSH AUTO," in my USER BUTTON SETUP for my NTSC version AC90, just the regular PUSH AF selection The already assigned FOCUS A/M/~ just gives a choice between full time auto focus, full time manual focus (with the focus ring on the lens), or push and hold for infinity focus. Now that I think about what you said, I think your vernacular "TURBO TYPE" is the regular PUSH AF selection from the USER BUTTON SETUP.

Camera Expert said:
I'm still hoping it'll be compared to the X900 soon from some place especially in the 1080 60p mode.
Click to expand...
While I haven't used the X900, I do currently own the TM900 which is the X900 predecessor. I only shoot 1080/p60 mode with both cameras. The image sharpness is the same as is the touch-LCD seems about the same, familiar menu layout although the more comprehensive adjustments with the AC90, but that's about it. The dynamic range, latitude, sensitivity, noise, color accuracy, white balance, black balance, control of flare, low light are a whole 'nuther matter. No comparison really. The AC90 is thoroughly professional in its image. The TM900 can be good (or even great), but the conditions and light have to cooperate. My frustration with it was not being able to use all the footage. The AC90 handles all the tough lighting situations about the same or better honestly than my Sony EX1 did (very good). My PMW350 shoulder cam is not threatened but c'mon, it's a F13 sensitivity 2/3's inch. That said, the AC90 footage will cut right with it and I doubt you could tell them apart except at the most extremes, (or if you used its shallow DOF potential).

I hope I'm not overstating with the EX1 comparison. One characteristic of the bigger sensor cameras is they are less fussy about capturing the scene's dynamic range. Small sensor cameras actually require more skill on your part to do the same, and I'm good at quickly fiddling the gammas, DRS, knee or whatever it takes to fit the available lighting conditions, and interpret the histogram. My point is, the AC90 gives you the tools needed to make that possible, but you still have to do your part. The big sensor cams, like the EX1 and PMW350 are the true 'point and shoot' because they inherently start with more dynamic range. The TM900 and probably X900 don't.
 
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Tom Roper said:
2.) The focus is not parfocal, focus plane will shift as the zoom range changes... If you put the AC90 in manual focus mode, no problem unless you change the zoom. No zoom-to-focus, use the digital 10x digital magnification instead.
Click to expand...

Is this lens truly not parfocal? Are there other camcorders that are not? Is it possibly an issue with your copy? It just doesn't seem practical to not be able to set a focus plane that you can zoom around because it would seem make zooming very impractical. Specifically, how is it possible to use a simple zoom shot if you can't predict what the focus plane shifts to as you zoom? Do you have to be dynamically focusing as you zoom for every shot? And how do you predict what influence over your manual focusing is being wrought by the ever-shifting focus plane while zooming? Of course, I don't have the cam in my hands, but without parfocal lens, the whole process of holding focus while zooming seems to be a moving target.

Even my DSLR lenses are parfocal (relatively).

[EDIT]: The question is also being asked about HMC40 in these threads:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?296312-Is-the-HMC40-lens-parfocal
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...-HMC40&p=1986235238&viewfull=1#post1986235238
 
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Tom Roper said:
Small sensor cameras actually require more skill on your part to do the same, and I'm good at quickly fiddling the gammas, DRS, knee or whatever it takes to fit the available lighting conditions, and interpret the histogram.
Click to expand...

I have little knowledge of this level of camera operation. I'm sure there's no shortcut, but can you please point to resources that might help me develop a workflow or an approach to using these tools? Thanks.
 
Lou Bruno said:
...

I purchased the TIFFEN ND filter kit as part of my arsenal. Worth the money and it works in tandem with the camera. Easy to screw on...BUT.....WARNING.....do not over-tighten the filters because the lens hood is NOT removable and you will not be able to use the PALM METHOD to loosen the filters...
Click to expand...


It may be removable. Panasonic Germany says you have to loosen a screw to remove the lenshood. They were not 100% sure about this method but it may work. If so you have to have a screwdriver at hand wherever you go. Not very practically but at least you have the possibility if it's true.
 
Tom Roper,
Thanks for your comparison. I did read in someone's review possibly on Amazon that when shooting outdoors, the X900 was doing a bit better than his former TM900. If I get a bit more gigs any time soon, I might have my eye on the AC90 because it has a ton of features over the X900 but I'm a little nervous of the prospect that B&H and Amazon may lower the price of the X900 to $600 one day like they did to the TM900 and it also wouldn't surprise me if the auto mode in broad daylight between the X900 and the AC90 would be about the same. With all that said, the AC90 is using newer components so it wouldn't surprise me if the AC90 was a bit better. I basically wouldn't be surprised either way. Still, I don't always shoot in 60p since when I do music videos, it's usually 24p and that's when the AC90 will shine over the X900. I definitely prefer to own the AC90. Currently I use a GH1, GH2 and SD600. I've become increasingly bothered by the SD600 because of no viewfinder, no traditional manual focusing ring and a 24p mode that is within 60i. It's about time I upgrade.
 
bluesgeek said:
Is this lens truly not parfocal? Are there other camcorders that are not? Is it possibly an issue with your copy? It just doesn't seem practical to not be able to set a focus plane that you can zoom around because it would seem make zooming very impractical. Specifically, how is it possible to use a simple zoom shot if you can't predict what the focus plane shifts to as you zoom? Do you have to be dynamically focusing as you zoom for every shot? And how do you predict what influence over your manual focusing is being wrought by the ever-shifting focus plane while zooming? Of course, I don't have the cam in my hands, but without parfocal lens, the whole process of holding focus while zooming seems to be a moving target.

Even my DSLR lenses are parfocal (relatively).

[EDIT]: The question is also being asked about HMC40 in these threads:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?296312-Is-the-HMC40-lens-parfocal
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...-HMC40&p=1986235238&viewfull=1#post1986235238
Click to expand...

Inherently, servo controlled electronic rear focus lenses are not parfocal, so a flangeback adjustment is a calibration that maps the focus plane to track the zoom range. On the EX1, you could do this within the service menu. On the PMW350 and other 2/3 inch cams, it's an expected adjustment so it's a menu or even external switch driven adjustment. You focus on a star chart put on the wall at each end of the zoom range. On the AC90, HMC40 et all, I have no idea. I just know that when I zoomed in on my neighbor's tree across the street and focused, after I zoomed back out it was out of focus enough to notice on the pc, although not bad enough to see on the LCD.

If you zoom with auto focus, obviously you won't see this problem. And it may not be wholly obvious unless you zoom from one end to the other with the focus near infinity. And I did notice on one particular zoom, the subject went out of focus as I was zooming, manual focus mode of course. Whether it's an issue with just my copy? I can't answer that. I doubt it but I would just be speculating. Ideally, mfrs need to make the flangeback adjustment available to the operator just like they do on pro cams like the EX and PMW.
 
Gruesse aus New York.
Koennten sie mir bitte den WEB-Link mitteilen, der mir die Groesse des Sensors angiebt?
Vielen Dank
Lou Bruno





dartheasyliving said:
Hello there,
i followed this thread and i may (literally) bring some light into the darkness. The fact that the AG-AC90 is really doing good at low light is no miracle. It's because the sensor is not a 1/4.7". In fact its the same sensor thats working in the Z10000. => 1/4.1". A german video magazine (videoaktiv) couldn't believe that the sensor should be 1/4.7" because Panasonic don't have any sensor this size in their portfolio. So they asked Panasonic Germany. And according to Panasonic Germany it's indeed a mistake. It's a 1/4.1" sensor. The whole cam is a 2d version of the Z10000. In Germany and Austria they are promoting the Z10000 and the AG-AC90 to be the exact same cameras apart from the 3d feature.
Greetings from germany.
P.S. (I apologize for my grammar, i hope i could make myself understandable)

Dennis
Click to expand...
 
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