AG-AC90 starts shipping tomorrow. How many have one on order?

Barry_Green said:
Working on it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the responses Barry. You are obviously more experienced with a variety of cameras and with different uses than I am and your experience is very helpful. I am trying to be a judge of this new camera because there are many functions I like and especially for the under $2000 price its amazing. I was looking at the 130/160s, then the BMCC, but at this time my video career seems to be more directed at event shooting which this little guy should excel at. IMO it is the best in its class at this price point for professionals just starting out or to replace something much older. Like Jan from Panasonic was saying this would be really good for schools too. Its not just the initial price the SD cards are a very inexpensive recording mechanism (and dual recording is very nice when you may need the extra safety). Its got the OIS, very fast Auto Focus, excellent low light characteristics (blacks are black without crazy grain), a very manageable and quality codex, XLRs in, a very high quality LED display monitor, 1080p/50/60, lots of pro style buttons for quick selection, like the auto/manual button, and manual dials for focus, zoom, and iris.

I thought of something else which would be interesting to test. Handheld in a car (as a passenger).
 
Looking forward to some comparisons to the 100b. I'm a rare bird who still shoots events with the 100b. This is mainly due to budget constraints. I can't afford to spend $3K+ on a new camera. I can probably swing $2K- though. Up until recently all of the sub $2K HD cameras were compromised. If the 90 can prove to be be as sensitive as the 100b then I'll be saving up my pennies for it.
 
The noise level on the 90 is truly amazing !! On my 80's I cannot really go any higher than 12db ..then a video light must go on!! This will be an amazing event camera for weddings in dim churches where lights are forbidden! At receptions I think one would still opt to use a video light on the camera ...I use a 6 x PowerLED light on the HMC's and lock iris at 12db...With the 90 it looks like one could go almost double that and then use the video light substantially dimmed to simply brighten up the subjects.

Chris
 
This initial feedback has me very intrigued. Looks like this camera will do what I need it to do, and for considerably less money than anything new I was looking at just a month ago! Thanks for the bleeding edge info guys.
 
I really "ripped" into the camera today. Most likely I will post more YOU TUBE videos as the stabilizer shots were made walking in 6-9 inches of slippery snow-on purpose.


I carried over my scene file settings from my 130 camera via writing down same because there is NO importation via a saved SD card or can you rename SCEN FILES. However, I noticed I had to bring the detail up a little and lowered the DETAIL Coring to about -3 to increase the sharpness.

Sadly, no TIME STAMP for the legal video people-at least I can't discover that function either in the menu or the instructions that I studied for weeks.

As stated in the other forum area, this is NOT a AG AC-130/160 but, I have to be honest, this camera will be the best "bang for the buck" for those looking for a prosumer style camera.

I am totally amazed at the result of the 30db in my YOU TUBE video using ONE candle. NO ELECTRONIC NOISE!!

I did discover today that using this camera outdoors requires the use of the auto-shutter or else the iris will be F11. I like a sweet spot of 5.6. I purchased a TIFFEN ND FILTER set from BH PHOTO. Using a strong ND filter, I am able to set the shutter @ 60 or 120 for 60i. I guess this is something to keep in mind.

The intelligent Auto is awesome albeit muted colors for my taste.

I would be happy top answer any questions.

===========================================================================================================================================================================
I just received the new AG AC-90 today from B&H PHOTO. This is ONLY a preliminary evaluation/review of the camera. Since we are getting hit with a second storm here in the Northeast and recovering from the Super Storm, I had some time to get a feel of this new camera. Most likely a new forum area will be started for the AC-90.


.WIDE-ANGLE: Seems wide enough BUT I will be purchasing the Panasonic Wide Angle made for this camera for GLIDECAM work when introduced in the USA.

.I know the first question will be from my colleagues who own the 130/160 as I do. The bottom line is that this camera is NOT a AG AC-130/160(A) by any means but the picture quality is not diminished with proper lighting. Unfortunetly, this is a very dreary day and I could do nothing but "shoot' some clips out a snowy window.

.I will "CUT TO THE CHASE" and am happy to inform all that the AUTO FOCUS is right on target. I even designated a USER button on the camera as a TURBO FOCUS BUTTON, as I am a manual shooter. This focus is faster than the instant focus used in my SONY G-10 HD camera.

.CAUTION: There is a pull-out LCD monitor which is 3.5 inches. The preview monitor is easy to pull out but CAUTION, CAUTION,CAUTION.........DO NOT push the monitor BACK with the palm of your hand. Use your two forefingers to lightly push the slide-in monitor back into place. If not, I see the 'handwriting on the wall' that Panasonic repair will see these units in the shop for repairs.

.NOTE: The Lens cap is pretty cheesy and doesn't seem to attach with a "clicK' as do other Panny cameras I own.


.NOTE: It is VERY important to read the Manual. The menu is not that intuitive but took me about 2 hours to really figure the ins and outs. It is essential to STUDY the manual. I can't wait for Barry Green's book which is available via mailing out an enclosed card.

.HINT: The menu is navigated by a touch screen. Don't attempt adjusting the menu screen after eating a greasy chicken leg :-) I discovered that the enclosed REMOTE actually emulates the external button of the 130/160(A) and I used that method to adjust the menu.

.HINT: If you are A 130/160 OWNER like myself, it is essential to copy (handwritten) on a piece of paper your current favorite SCENES. There is NO WAY to transfer your current scene files to this camera. So, I wrote down my favorites and entered them into the AC-90 via the CAMERA SETTING menu. SADLY, there is no way I can discover, to actually NAME each scene in the AC-90. SO, I wrote down the names of the scene files on a postie. Of course, there are default settings that are the same as the Scene Files in the 130/160(A) but, again, no designated file name such as "SPARKLE",etc.

.Intelligent AUTO: This feature is just short of remarkable. I have been a videographer since 1982 and do not use auto-functions, but this amazed me. Since I use the HD4000 Glidecam, this setting will be a godsend.

.STABILIZER: OK.... this is NOT a Steadycam or Glidecam etc. type of stabilizer....BUT.......it is awfully darn good and BETTER to me than a recent test with the new SONY. One must keep the camera in wideangle if there is any type of walking. However, this is the best stabilizer I have used for handheld shooting. I did notice when the I-Zoom was used, once the I-Zoom was in place and at the 25X mark, the stabilizer is not as good. A mono-pod or tripod will be needed as the angle of view is not that of the 130/160(A). For edification, I-Zoom allows a 25X magnification w/o degradation. I really did not test this at this time. However, the 12X optical worked well as stated-with the stabilizer setting.


.Playing back clips, both still and video are easy using the rear "PLAY" switch. DELETING clips is a bit of a challenge, so it is necessary to read the manual. The ZOOM/ROCKER actually changes the clip display from single to multiple. Who would have thought that! There are several functions that require changing menu settings and one can pre-study the VOLUME 2 manual on-line.

.ND filter: Cloudy and snowy....could not test. However, it is my opinion, that high contrast lighting will probably use an external ND filter. I currently have a clear filter that screwed int the non-removable lens hood....YES....non-removable.

.LOW LIGHT: The GAIN 'kicks-in" once the IRIS passes the "OPEN" display. In lowlight the gain went to 20db (can go higher plus AGC) and I did not notice any grain issues on my download. However, it appears at the higher gain, the picture is soft albeit a pleasant soft. For me. lowlight is not an issue as I would alway use lighting anyway. For others, Panasonic did a nice job here with the 1/4.7 chips.


In closing, the camera is a little brother to the 130/160(a) in every respect. I like the balance and feel of the camera and fits well on my shoulder mount. Handheld.... there is no fatigue. Of course, there is lots to discover and more testing of the actual picture quality.[i/]
 
Here is a quick and dirty test:
1080p60 - (30fps timeline, last clip is 50% speed), OIS, Shutter 1/120, Iris F9.0, auto-focus. Also has light color correction.
 
DannayZay said:
Here is a quick and dirty test:
1080p60 - (30fps timeline, last clip is 50% speed), OIS, Shutter 1/120, Iris F9.0, auto-focus. Also has light color correction.
Click to expand...


Oh my Goodness!! This is indeed gorgeous! The resolution still looks fantastic at f/9

How did you export this to YouTube? What were your settings? This is great looking quality for YouTube.
 
I exported from PP CS6 with H.264 -> HD 1080p 29.97 Preset (VBR, 1 Pass, Target Bitrate 32Mbps). Really loving the resolution as well!
LanceOregon said:
Oh my Goodness!! This is indeed gorgeous! The resolution still looks fantastic at f/9

How did you export this to YouTube? What were your settings? This is great looking quality for YouTube.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Lou

Just remember that the camera iris might show F11 but it is a pseudo reading as after F2.8 the auto ND starts to come in gradually so F11 is actually still the iris at maybe F3 PLUS most of the ND filter in. Barry pointed this out to me a while back on the HMC80 and said that any aperture smaller than around F3 would cause the image to turn to slush with the tiny chips. On a manual ND camera like the AC-130 with the much bigger 1/3" chips you start to get degradation anything from F8 so they always suggest F5.6 so you can halve that to the AC-90 chips....It's easier for Panasonic to show an "effective" F11 on the display than tell you it's "F2.8 with 89% ND"

Chris
 
ChrisHarding said:
Hi Lou

Just remember that the camera iris might show F11 but it is a pseudo reading as after F2.8 the auto ND starts to come in gradually so F11 is actually still the iris at maybe F3 PLUS most of the ND filter in. Barry pointed this out to me a while back on the HMC80 and said that any aperture smaller than around F3 would cause the image to turn to slush with the tiny chips. On a manual ND camera like the AC-130 with the much bigger 1/3" chips you start to get degradation anything from F8 so they always suggest F5.6 so you can halve that to the AC-90 chips....It's easier for Panasonic to show an "effective" F11 on the display than tell you it's "F2.8 with 89% ND"

Chris
Click to expand...

Thanks much for your detailed explanation of this Chris. Having never used any of the HMC models, this is all new to me.
 
That is something I didn't know. I was going by the F11 readout/display.

ChrisHarding said:
Hi Lou

Just remember that the camera iris might show F11 but it is a pseudo reading as after F2.8 the auto ND starts to come in gradually so F11 is actually still the iris at maybe F3 PLUS most of the ND filter in. Barry pointed this out to me a while back on the HMC80 and said that any aperture smaller than around F3 would cause the image to turn to slush with the tiny chips. On a manual ND camera like the AC-130 with the much bigger 1/3" chips you start to get degradation anything from F8 so they always suggest F5.6 so you can halve that to the AC-90 chips....It's easier for Panasonic to show an "effective" F11 on the display than tell you it's "F2.8 with 89% ND"

Chris
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, avoid f/11 if you can. F/8 is fine, I think f/6.4 is the last spot on the lens with diffraction-free resolution. You can stop down to f/8 with a minimal loss. F/11 is a little further than I would want to go personally.

You really need a 2-stop (or even 3-stop) ND filter if you're shooting a lot in bright daylight. I'm shooting beaches at noon and I have to use 1/1000 shutter and f/11. I am really wishing I had a good quality ND.9 right now!
 
Correct. I just purchased multiple ND filters...one is over 1. Also .09. It did seem weird that the shutter/Iris is like a PROGRAM mode in a DSLR. By using the ND filter during today's test, I was able to set the shutter at 1/120 for 60i w/o a problem an not work in the smaller iris settings while using an ND filter. It appears to me that an external ND filter on a bright day is essential for good exposure. If one utilizes the AUTO IRIS, I would recommend assigning the SPOTLIGHT mode to one of the USER buttons to use in tandem.

I am also discovering that the scene settings appear different in this camera even though they are the same from my 130. One has to lower the saturation a bit, increase detail and vertical detail as well as not letting the coring get too soft. I modified the STYLIN setting that Panasonic issued for the 130/160 on their website and placed same manually into the AC-90.


Barry_Green said:
Yeah, avoid f/11 if you can. F/8 is fine, I think f/6.4 is the last spot on the lens with diffraction-free resolution. You can stop down to f/8 with a minimal loss. F/11 is a little further than I would want to go personally.

You really need a 2-stop (or even 3-stop) ND filter if you're shooting a lot in bright daylight. I'm shooting beaches at noon and I have to use 1/1000 shutter and f/11. I am really wishing I had a good quality ND.9 right now!
Click to expand...
 
DannayZay,

Let me get this straight. The wide shot jumps to zoom. Then you hit the 2x digital zoom? If this is the case, that's an amazing shot. I've not seen digital zoom that good. I had it up on 1080p on YouTube and I was assuming that you had gotten closer to the water for that third shot of the boat!

Like Zim, I'm feeling confident this will be my replacement to my DVX100A.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top