A7S PicPro Settings

Kohli's slog 2 profile - Canon fd 50mm, wb 5600k, Genus Eclipse fader nd

View attachment 89632

FDs have such a distinct look. Like they auto-blue shadows and do their own thing to skin. I'm using Hunter's set on my 2.5K Blackmagic and it has this same general look.

Also noticing those greens look solid. Does the Fader have a color shift at all?

Thanks for posting up!
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Okay I'm alive now... got really sick last week and just kind of vanished.

I'm going to see if I can get ahold of another A7S to test/make adjustments to this profile. It's looking like the right kind of base (that I like, anyway) but I could probably make this a bit better.

I read in another thread that, with stills, boosting magenta's the only way to get a normalized image from the A7S where Skin's involved. I got this same impression when I picked the camera up for the first time, but I sincerely believe that I went too far in camera with the magenta.

So far everything you guys are posting looks pretty good, though, and again it's a base that I could personally get behind. Once I'm back on the camera and can tweak it a bit more, it should be something that you could pass off comfortably with a CONTRASTED version, or one where you do the contrast in camera and hand it off to someone.
 
Great results from that profile, Kholi. Just a quick screen test for an upcoming museum project. Hit it with my usual F55 Filmconvert recipe and it looks amazing. Some proper lighting and I'm set.
UCtdXIB.jpg

6J6Ui7r.jpg
 
Great results from that profile, Kholi. Just a quick screen test for an upcoming museum project. Hit it with my usual F55 Filmconvert recipe and it looks amazing. Some proper lighting and I'm set.
UCtdXIB.jpg

6J6Ui7r.jpg

Amazing look. A few questions, if you dont mind? Are you finding 1.0 - 1.7 EV the right spot? Are you relying on the camera MM readings?
 
Amazing look. A few questions, if you dont mind? Are you finding 1.0 - 1.7 EV the right spot? Are you relying on the camera MM readings?

I usually glance at the EV and try to peg in that general area between 1.0-2.0 but I just eyeballed it for the general exposure here. Probably was +0.5 from the looks of the original footage.
 
I read in another thread that, with stills, boosting magenta's the only way to get a normalized image from the A7S where Skin's involved. I got this same impression when I picked the camera up for the first time, but I sincerely believe that I went too far in camera with the magenta.

You can shift the color phase up quite a bit and it will hit magenta and skin tones much closer but then bright yellow turn into pastel yellows. I played for hours trying to see where the best balance was and just couldn't find a way to get all colors in line. It's a trade off, it seems.
 
Although I love Kholi's profile, I'm still trying to find the right settings with SGamut and Slog2. I have been doing so much testing, kinda driving myself crazy :) but so far this is the best I could get with SGamut.

6400ISO SLOG2 SGamut
Vanny3_1.2.1.jpg
 
Cyork - those stills look wonderful and rich (sort of reminds me of dvx colour), is making Film Convert hard to resist

Kohli - yes the Canon fd's certainly have their own thing going on - I quite like it but colour accuracy and contrast is not their strength.....the Genus Eclipse seems to give a very subtle warm cast to the image which I actually quite like. Am still playing around in Premiere with simple curves - Resolve is better but doesn't like xavc audio so for quick and dirty I'm trying to get the look in Premiere cs6. Got a lot to learn with colour correction and grading - you folks are inspiring, keep up the good work
 
I read in another thread that, with stills, boosting magenta's the only way to get a normalized image from the A7S where Skin's involved. I got this same impression when I picked the camera up for the first time, but I sincerely believe that I went too far in camera with the magenta.

It's way magenta. I've been trying to tweak it but I've got nothing so far.

This is just vanilla S-log with yellow down a notch & +8 saturation then Filmconvert Ari LogC. LogC keeps more DR than F55 S-Log but you can't expose as hot, +1 EV rather than +2.
X4j3JIb.png
 
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Squig, still looks great to me. I find the Alexa LUTS a little contrasty compared to the F55 but dialed, they produce really sweet results too. What I'm just now playing with is the OFX version of Filmconvert in R11 and man....the results are so much better! Sorry for the same stale still but check the difference.
FCPX version
ZQHmmZn.jpg

Resolve (with a few tweaks thanks to having access to the nicer controls. The skin was different right off the bat, though)
3puJldM.jpg

Much more photographic!
 
Squig, still looks great to me. I find the Alexa LUTS a little contrasty compared to the F55 but dialed, they produce really sweet results too. What I'm just now playing with is the OFX version of Filmconvert in R11 and man....the results are so much better! Sorry for the same stale still but check the difference.
FCPX version

Resolve (with a few tweaks thanks to having access to the nicer controls. The skin was different right off the bat, though)

Much more photographic!

Hehe. Told ya! Try shooting at around +1 EV and turn the contrast down with the Alexa LUT to between 840 and 900 to taste (that's with standard S-Log, I don't know if it will work right with Kholi's). Outputting to DPX will preserve the wide gamut image. I just have to figure out how to keep it looking good in quicktime.
 
Just curious what metering mode you guys are using to overexpose by +1 through +2 ev when shooting Vanilla S-Log and Kholis Profile, Multi-pattern, Center-Weighted or Spot? Are you using Spot to overexpose on your subject or is Multi-pattern overexposed nailing it pretty well?
 
Just curious what metering mode you guys are using to overexpose by +1 through +2 ev when shooting Vanilla S-Log and Kholis Profile, Multi-pattern, Center-Weighted or Spot? Are you using Spot to overexpose on your subject or is Multi-pattern overexposed nailing it pretty well?

I've tried all three. The multi metering seems to be doing for me enough to where I don't bother changing it. Maybe for really backlit shots but I'll just eyeball those anyway.
 
I've abandoned S-Gamut, the colours are really weak, especially the greens. I'm liking cinema a bit more than pro, deeper reds, not as bright.
The highlight aliasing is a real problem, I haven't found any way around it.
 
Squig, is it possible to refer me somewhere to see this highlight banding. I would like to see what it looks like so I can know what to look for. About to shoot a big music video that has a decent amount of on stage lighting, just want to make sure what my limitations are or if I need to substitute a different cam for the on stage shots.
 
Squig, is it possible to refer me somewhere to see this highlight banding. I would like to see what it looks like so I can know what to look for. About to shoot a big music video that has a decent amount of on stage lighting, just want to make sure what my limitations are or if I need to substitute a different cam for the on stage shots.

If you point it at a bright light source with a dark background you'll see it. I started a thread about it a while back (had dummies in the title) there's some examples there. At this point I wouldn't trust the A7s to fly solo on a shoot, I'll be using it in tandem with the 5D raw until we can persuade Sony to fix it. I have to do some more testing but when I'm done I'll report it to Sony.

See the blue edge around the sheet of paper, it's aliasing
N4rFBEt.png
 
Hallo

Please If anyone can help me with a color profile,that does not require post processing.especially for wedding..I tried all profiles on A7S

Thanks
 
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