Got it; overcrank needs IF. This sounds like a good reason to spring for one soon. Do you find any IQ difference with the higher frame rate?
F35: A few questions from a new owner
- Thread starter MikalZ
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Got it; overcrank needs IF. This sounds like a good reason to spring for one soon. Do you find any IQ difference with the higher frame rate?
Boy the F65 is striking me as a stranger and stranger camera. First I find recording raw is the only option, and now I hear it only outputs PsF :-/ Why Sony why....
Viddovation
Veteran
Triggering the recorder from the camera is not possible without custom modification. Essentially, the camera ignores presses of the REC/RUN button if it does not detect a docked "VTR". To the camera a docked "IF BOX" is different than a docked "VTR". I have personally reverse engineered the dock vtr data protocol, and did a proof of concept connection between the camera and recorders like the Sony SR-R1 and the Atomos Samurai. Due to the very low number of potential users I never finished developing the project. I may revisit it.
Having the recorder trigger the camera is slightly more feasible. It still is only hypotethical. For the moment there is no way to do this.
Viddovation
Veteran
Because it's only meant to record raw - those output ports are for monitoring, not recording. And for monitoring PsF is a more compatible format.
Mitch Gross
Veteran
The camera doesn't send a trigger signal to the Odyssey over the SDI stream, so there's no way for us to trigger from it, at least without someone hacking the camera somehow.
We do have a remote trigger accessory for the Odyssey7Q+. It plugs into the RMT port on the side of the device and features a pushbutton on the end with an internal LED that illuminates when recording is underway. The cable is 6' long or you could order a custom length, so it is easy enough to mount it by the viewfinder to act as a tally as well as a trigger. If you prefer to make your own the wiring diagram is included in the manual (that large document I write knowing that no one ever reads it).
Viddovation
Veteran
F23/F35 have no internal timecode. Only have timecode if a recorder is docked. So no LTC/VITC rec/run trigger is possible.
Ah you went the Codex route, very nice. I'm going the other direction; attempting the most stripped down rig possible (~16lbs). I may start incrementally beefing it up, although having shot tests this weekend I'm really satisfied with what I'm seeing in the 10bit files. It's grainy, but in an "information rich" kind of way.
I'm using the Alexa lut at the moment, is there a better one for SLOG?
Yes, I was considering others but the Codex route. It has yet to arrive so I will see how big it all is when done, but I think it will be fairly compact since it attaches directly to the camera and no rigging or cables are needed. From what I have read the most recommended way of grading is using the slog-to-cineon lut developed by macgregor and then using a lut for Alexa LogC, I have not graded anything myself yet though.
Thanks, dhessel. I found this thread on grading the F35: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?318541-Color-grading-the-F35
I've been doing it wrong (and the footage still looks great).
Mitch Gross
Veteran
Someone on crack must have written that.
Ha, ok then.
Mitch Gross
Veteran
In all seriousness, the flange depth on your lenses should all be set to a standard zero point using a collimator. Then the camera should be set as well and you should not change it. Only in extreme temperature shifts or over long periods of time during which some screws may have backed off a micron or two should there ever be a change in FFD that would cause back focus issues. It's worth taking your gear to a proper cine camera rental house with a collimator and having it all checked and set properly. Then you're good to go.
Thanks, Mitch. I'll be renting some glass soon; this sounds like an opportune time to do what you suggested.
So the second camera connector port on both the top and back of my F35 look to be hosed.
The top one had a protective plate attached to it and when removed it revealed a hollow gap. The back one is missing half the pins. (see pics)
The manual says the second camera port is to transmit/receive power. Is it safe to say I won't be able to use an IF here unless this head and its connector ports are serviced?
The top one had a protective plate attached to it and when removed it revealed a hollow gap. The back one is missing half the pins. (see pics)
The manual says the second camera port is to transmit/receive power. Is it safe to say I won't be able to use an IF here unless this head and its connector ports are serviced?
You might be able to order this part through the sony parts/service site, I have bought the other side attempting to make my own power plate. I have taken apart both sides of the dock, it's not very hard.
It is also normal for the top dock not to have the power connection, only the back dock.
You can live without this connection however. The 4 pin of the IF box is what connects to this port. The IF box will still work fine for Dual Link the power isn't needed to power the IF box, it only sends it into the camera. Buy the Abelcine F65/35 plate with the main power lemo connector. I believe it is safer to use the main designed for power and also you have the benefit of the aux power outputs on the side of the camera working.
It is also normal for the top dock not to have the power connection, only the back dock.
You can live without this connection however. The 4 pin of the IF box is what connects to this port. The IF box will still work fine for Dual Link the power isn't needed to power the IF box, it only sends it into the camera. Buy the Abelcine F65/35 plate with the main power lemo connector. I believe it is safer to use the main designed for power and also you have the benefit of the aux power outputs on the side of the camera working.