7D 7D + accessories or 5D Mark II without many acessories?

5D's super shallow DOF is not for movies, it's for stills. How many times you have watched hollywood (shot with super 35mm sensor) movie and thought there should be shallower DOF in the scene? I'm sure never.

TESTIFY!!! Seriously, I was getting tired of the super shallow DoF some time ago. People seemed to think that it was a holy grail of cinema largely because it was one of the more obvious limitations of HD cameras with 1/3 and 2/3 sensors. I thought that having cameras like the 5Dii and 7D available for cheap prices would get everyone to realize that DoF is just a tool like any other and not the end all/be all holy grail of cinema. Instead, it seems to have gotten worse as people see the shallower DoF of the 5Dii compared to traditional Super 35mm and say, "that looks every more film-like!" How can it be more film like than the actual FILMS you've seen?

Everyone is entitled to their opinion and their own way of shooting but I would MUCH rather shoot with the sensor size and lens choices of what movies have been shot with for the last 50 years or so. It's not just about the DoF (which takes into account aperture) but the lenses themselves. We've gotten used to how the human face looks with a certain focal length and how the perspective of a scene in compressed with certain lenses. I'm much more interested in working in those parameters as they are what cinematographers have done for years and what the pros still use as all the high-end HD cameras (Red, Alexa, Genisis, ect) are using sensors that size (because it's what DP's have been using for years).

I remember watching the extra features on the DVD for Ronin and they had an interview with John Frankenhiemer's DP who was describing how Frankenhiemer liked to work. He said, "John likes to be either very wide of very telaphoto. We start off using the 18mm or 28mm and then he like to just to the 85mm or 100mm." I had no freaking idea what that meant because I had been using the HVX200 which had a 4-55mm zoom. I like now that when i look up the lenses that were used on films that I find asthetically pleasing, I can keep that in mind for my own stuff.

I believe you're stuck with the red record dot,

Red dot? Pardon my ingoraunce but what is that?

and there are reports of artifacts on the 7D hdmi output too - which is why no-one uses an external recorder with them.

well that makes me feel better about getting a 60D instead of a 7D.

General concensus seems to put the full frame 5D ahead of the 7D on IQ if you're projecting onto a cinema screen.

Except the "general consensus" never seems to back this opinion up. I'm not trying to pick a fight or be condescending but I spent a lot of time talking to people who had worked with both cameras and looking at footage and I find this feeling that the 5Dii gives better image quality to never be supported with actual data. We know that it can achieve a shallower DoF (which doesn't matter to me) and we know that it's less noisy in low light (which is awesome and makes sense given the large sensor). When I'd ask, "is that the only difference?" I would usually be told "well, the 5Dii just looks a little better."

I would than say, "how so? Is it sharper?"
THEM: "No, they look about as sharp."
ME: "Is the codec better?"
THEM: "No, they both have about the same compression?"
ME: "Colors look any better?"
THEM: "No, about the same."
ME: "How about the form-factor?"
THEM: "No. Actually the LCD and extra frame-rates on the other cams are much nicer."

Finally, I would ask, "OK, not counting the shallower DoF and low light performance, HOW DOES THE 5DII LOOK BETTER THAN THE 7D?" They would then pause and say something like, "it just looks more FILMMLIKE." I would then ask again, "HOW SO?" Then they would say something like, "well, it's really cool how just the actor's eyes might be in focus but his ears are totally out of focus. More filmmlike to me."

Now, I'm not trying to pretend to be an expert on DSLRs. I've been shooting HD for years but I'm fairly knew to the DSLR game so I may be speaking out of my butt. I just grew surprised how many kept saying, "the 5Dii has better image quality" and then, when asked for how it was better aside from the DoF and low light, they kept responding "I don't know, it just is. I like the DoF!!!" I really wanted to make sure I got the best bang for my buck but I also didn't feel the need for a full frame sensor when I was going to mainly shoot films and I wanted my stuff to be intercut with cameras like The Red, Alexa, or F3 (all APS sized sensors). After looking at the two "Great Camera Shoot-Outs" as well as other tests, I've come to believe that the 5Dii having better image quality is a myth that comes from it being the first DSLR that was widely used on productions and because of its shallower DoF which so many HD DPs are nuts over. If for some reason you can't deal with a 1.6 crop (which would make sense if you came from a still photography background) or if you can't handle noisier low light performance (which also makes sense if you want to shoot a lot in dark locations), then the 5Dii is a better choice. I just find that a lot of people are kidding themselves into thinking it produces and over all better image when nothing seems to indicate that.

From the first installment, I can say the 5D handles the shadows better but the 7D handles the highlights better with a nice balance of light and dark exposures across the image. There's more difference to the two sensors besides dof.

That's true though that seemed to be the case based more off the internal processing as it seems that Canon, realizing that highlights were more of a problem in HD, pushed the lattitude towards the highlight end in order to compensate. What i found more revealing was how very similar the two looked. I couldn't tell ANY difference between them when the same lens was on except that the 7D was performing better in some of the latitude comparisons. Since blown out highlights can be a big deal for me, I found this pretty encouraging.

Just got done shooting a two day commercial in the middle of a natural disaster zone. For some reason the art department chose the Canon 5D and 7D to shoot the spot on. The 7D spent half of our exterior day and studio day overheated (yes firmware is up to date), and twice the camera completely quit and lost irreplaceable interview footage. The 5D didn't overheat nearly as bad, but using it in conjunction with an external monitor drove me crazy... having to pull the cable to focus assist, bizarre disconnections for no reason...

I believe the 7D overheats more because it has two processors for shooting faster burst stills but these are of no use in video. I know the 60D (and T3/2i) overheat much less than the 7D and I have been told they overheat less than the 5Dii as well.
 
I will repeat myself: How many times you have watched hollywood (shot with super 35mm sensor) movie and thought there should be shallower DOF in the scene? I'm sure never. Super shallow DOF is for stills and even with portrait photography you rarely use f1.2-1.8 because a) the DOF is so shallow the persons nose and hair will be out of focus and b) the lenses are way sharper on 2.8->.

Also when thinking the future, it's better to use camera with similar sensor size to super 35 in case you one day have change to work with one (Film, Arri, RED, whatever). You know exactly what mm will give what FOV and DOF and you don't have to use calculator to find what lens to use with super 35 camera so it looks like *mm in 5D.
Repeat again if you want to.Clearly you dont get it and i dont blame you.Dont have time to explain.Im aware of crop factor having APS-C and i would be aware having full frame so this work with film cam in the future reason is not good enough, for me f2.8 on 35, 28, 24 have too much in focus, 28mm on APS-C is like regular lens with regular perspective and ive seen in movies shots with similar FOV and they have much more blur in the background than f2.8 on 28mm.Not all movies were shot with the same lenses and same speeds, i see footage from RED and i see that its a bit wider, this matters for me cause i see the difference of few milimeters on sensor of canon and red one.
 
Just got done shooting a two day commercial in the middle of a natural disaster zone. For some reason the art department chose the Canon 5D and 7D to shoot the spot on. The 7D spent half of our exterior day and studio day overheated

I've had many overheating problems with the 5D, 7D, and 550D, but not once (yet) with the 60D. The view screen creates a lot of it's own heat and moving it away from the body seems to relieve the heating problem.
I do agree though with a revolution of new cameras and codecs looming as soon as a few months from now, it may be wise to buy a used 550D along with some first class lenses and audio equipment. Then if you simply upgrade the used body you don't stand to loose much. All these cameras can produce a similar look and resolution for post.
As far a DOF goes the 5D is tricky to keep all facial features in focus shooting close up portrait shots in low light wide open.
It's easy to achieve shallow DOF with any of these cameras simply by moving your focus point closer to the camera and separating it further from it's background. I'm more concerned with keeping things in focus then throwing them out. Out of focus shots usually get thrown out as well
 
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You guys aren't making this any easier! haha.

How about this.. I'll give you a scenario and you tell me what you'd do..
You've got $2500 bucks, a great tripod, an HD field monitor and a post-production editing suite. What camera and accessories do you buy with that $2500? It's use will be for short films. GO!
 
You guys aren't making this any easier! haha.How about this.. I'll give you a scenario and you tell me what you'd do..You've got $2500 bucks, a great tripod, an HD field monitor and a post-production editing suite. What camera and accessories do you buy with that $2500? It's use will be for short films. GO!
In all honesty rather than let that cash burn a hole in my pocket, I would save my money for something like the AF100 or FS100 which are much better cameras for shooting films. I'm not trying to poo poo the 7D or 5DmkII because I use them when the need arises, but if I were shopping for a camera to shoot films with it would not be a DSLR.
Good Luck!

Dave
 
In all honesty rather than let that cash burn a hole in my pocket, I would save my money for something like the AF100 or FS100 which are much better cameras for shooting films. I'm not trying to poo poo the 7D or 5DmkII because I use them when the need arises, but if I were shopping for a camera to shoot films with it would not be a DSLR.
Good Luck!

Dave

Unfortunately, I don't see myself having enough money for either one of those any time soon :(
 
Really, an AF100 just sold for $3950. You would have only had to save up $1450 over what you have now which is really very doable if you put your mind to it.
 
Really, an AF100 just sold for $3950. You would have only had to save up $1450 over what you have now which is really very doable if you put your mind to it.

Oh, it's completely doable. But then I'm left with $0 for anything else, you know? :\
 
You guys aren't making this any easier! haha.

How about this.. I'll give you a scenario and you tell me what you'd do..
You've got $2500 bucks, a great tripod, an HD field monitor and a post-production editing suite. What camera and accessories do you buy with that $2500? It's use will be for short films. GO!

So you don't have a decent mic? That should have been on your list with your old camera. If you don't have a mic, I would start with a decent boom (I like the AT4073 as the best bang for your buck) and then see what you have left.

If you do have a good mic, I would say grab the 60D for $900 and then spend the other $1600 on some nice lenses. I personally like having a good range zoom just so I can compose any shot I want and be flexible. Maybe grab a 18-135mm as your base zoom for all situations and then see how many nice primes you can afford. Going with vintage glass could save you some money though I havn't done this myself. If I had the cash (a spare $1300 after getting a zoom), I would try to get primes at f2 or less for 18mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, and 100mm. Since this may be too expensive, you can probably lose the 35mm and the 85mm if you're on a tight budget (or lose the 50mm and 100mm). The only one that I NEED is an 18mm or shorter when I want to do a nice wide shot (and I like a lot of those).
 
Well, I had access to audio equipment before through school, but now I've moved and no longer have that luxury.
 
To me the major advantages of the 5d compared to APS-C is the better handling of high ISOs and mostly the ability to use lenses at their intended (photographic) focal lengths. On the 5d I can use an 85 a 100 a 135mm lens much more than on crop sensor (unless I am shooting from kilometers away). Consider also that you can use these long lenses for excellent stills and that gives me a reason to go full frame.
However, in your case I would start with a crop sensor plus all the extra equipment needed to film. The quality is already excellent for filming. Then at a second stage if you discover that you need wider fast lenses or better ISO handling you may get a used 5d at a good price. Making short films is not just about the camera. There are much important things to consider (light, sound, camera stabilization, acting, script). So go get an APS-C plus accessories and start shooting.
 
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If I had $2500 to spend, I would go for the 60D, a Zoom H4n audio recorder, and a couple of 3rd Party Lenses (these would vary depending on your needs, but a good starting point is the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8).

And the last couple of hundred dollars I would spend on things like batteries, SD cards, ND filters etc.

You don't need a matte box and cage and follow focus and all that other stuff. Most of the time a tripod or a monopod will be far more practical than most of the other support gear that people are using. It might not look as 'cool' but I'd rather use a monopod for fast, mobile stuff than fork out $1000 on a shoulder rig.
 
If I had $2500 to spend, I would go for the 60D, a Zoom H4n audio recorder, and a couple of 3rd Party Lenses (these would vary depending on your needs, but a good starting point is the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8).
I would buy a 600D/T3i instead. In fact I just did. It's cheaper & has the neat 3X HD crop mode that gives you a free telephoto lens.

You don't need a matte box and cage and follow focus and all that other stuff. Most of the time a tripod or a monopod will be far more practical than most of the other support gear that people are using. It might not look as 'cool' but I'd rather use a monopod for fast, mobile stuff than fork out $1000 on a shoulder rig.
I agree but think that if you have sufficient space to use one an ultra lightweight cheap tripod is even better than a monopod. Even in the best hands a monopod always sways a little plus you can take you hands off the tripod without it crashing to the floor.
 
Another good addition in 60D over 600D is that you can save your user settings. With 600D you have to always do the correct settings when changing from stills to video, but with user setting option you just dial it and you will have all the settings ready in a second.

Also, from the test videos I've watched it seems that 5D seems to have less noise at ISO 1250 than 7D at ISO 640.
 
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I agree but think that if you have sufficient space to use one an ultra lightweight cheap tripod is even better than a monopod. Even in the best hands a monopod always sways a little plus you can take you hands off the tripod without it crashing to the floor.

The benefit of a monopod over a tripod is not space/size/weight related, it is to do with mobility. If I need to quicly re-adjust height, it takes 1/3rd of the time with a monopod because you are only adjusting one leg.

I consider a monopod as an alternative to shoulder rigs rather than an alternative to a tripod. Sometimes at event like weddings you need to be fast, flexible and mobile and I tripod doesn't let you do that. So that's when I go to the monopod.

Tripod's and monopod's are complimentary, just like tridods and handholding, so it's no point argueing the benefits of one over the other. Monopods and shoulder rigs, however, are not necessarily complemantary - they're both doing the same job in different ways ie: assisting you to shoot handheld.
 
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The benefit of a monopod over a tripod is not space/size/weight related, it is to do with mobility. If I need to quicly re-adjust height, it takes 1/3rd of the time with a monopod because you are only adjusting one leg.
Who buys tripods that don't have adjustable center piece?
 
You guys aren't making this any easier! haha.

How about this.. I'll give you a scenario and you tell me what you'd do..
You've got $2500 bucks, a great tripod, an HD field monitor and a post-production editing suite. What camera and accessories do you buy with that $2500? It's use will be for short films. GO!

New 60D, Tamron 17-50 2.8 non VC,
Used Nikkor 50mm f1.4
Used Rode NTG-2 kit, Jucelink 2 channel with phantom power.
Probably have money left over for a cast party.
 
5d looks better, feels better, and actually overheats a bit less than the armored-tank 7d.

i used to preach about Canon hdslr's all having similar picture quality, and they do on the web, but there is something unique about the Mk2 footage.
 
for me f2.8 on 35, 28, 24 have too much in focus, 28mm on APS-C is like regular lens with regular perspective and ive seen in movies shots with similar FOV and they have much more blur in the background than f2.8 on 28mm.Not all movies were shot with the same lenses and same speeds, i see footage from RED and i see that its a bit wider, this matters for me cause i see the difference of few milimeters on sensor of canon and red one.
David Mullen said he shoots mostly f2.8-4. If hollywood DP are using that range I'm pretty sure it's more than enough for people at dvxuser too. There are tons of great movies shot with super 16 and DOF isn't nearly as shallow as with super 35 and still the super 16 movies look as good as movies shot with super 35. People who say they need super shallow DOF are probably lacking on all other aspects of film making and think the super shallow DOF will make their material better.
 
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