70D, best profile for resolution?

m43user

Active member
I noticed that with the standard settings video from the 70D is a little soft. What are the best profile and settings to get more resolution? Should I rely on sharpening in post instead?
 
Most of the pros I know use the neutral profile set at 0, -4, -2, 0. You're not going to get any more resolution by changing your picture profile. Sharpen in post if you need a sharper image but be careful not to overdo it.
 
I don't know anyone who shoots neutral 0, -4, -2, 0 unless they are trying to minimize moire and alliasing. I have found that technique produces near perfect mud on APS-C canon's. I'll suggest something like Flaat 10p with a slightly flatter gamma curve to be much easier to bring out the sharpness with. I've found that profile to be the easiest to bring out the best image of all canon profiles. It's super simple. Just add a touch of an s-curve to the color curves, a touch of saturation and a touch of sharpening and you're good to go. For some reason it produces and image that has better micro contrast (acutance) and color depth without all the fuss. The combination with just a touch of sharpening in post, just looks about as good as canon APS-C cams can get.
 
I don't know anyone who shoots neutral 0, -4, -2, 0

Except everyone. That is the "prolost neutral" and way more important than flaat or technicolor profiles. Your explanation of flaat10p having more "detail" sounds like placebo.
 
maarek, I've tried all the techniques Stu has mentioned and in my testing with a T3i, especially with the 3x zoom/crop function, his technique creates total mush. There is no amount of unsharp mask or sharpening that can bring back the image. I will admit I've never done the test with a full frame camera before, but with the crop cams like the T2i and T3i it doesn't work at all and I don't know anyone who uses that technique.

The combination of flattening the luma curve and keeping sharpness, contrast and saturation in the middle that Flaat10p uses, has proven over and over to create a significant increase in the perception of sharpness in my wildlife work. In my experience it produces way sharper images than what can be achieved by turning sharpness and contrast all the way down.

Curious where you get the notion that "everyone" is using that "prolost - never to be returned" technique :)

Cheers,
Pete
 
The combination of flattening the luma curve and keeping sharpness, contrast and saturation in the middle that Flaat10p uses, has proven over and over to create a significant increase in the perception of sharpness in my wildlife work. In my experience it produces way sharper images than what can be achieved by turning sharpness and contrast all the way down.

Cheers,
Pete

I've been shooting Cinestyle since it came out. I was interested in Flaat 10 so I tested it. Way too saturated reds for me. I could remove it in post but not what I'm after. I installed Super Flat and Marvel and did some side buy side tests. In my opinion the 3 produce similar images with different levels of flatness. Cinestyle being the flattest followed by Super Flatt 10 and then Marvals. Nutral contract and sharpness dialed all the way down was still substantually more contrasty than marvels. I did use Neutral flattened on a 5D fashion shoot where I had complete control of the lighting and it was good, but I switched to Neutral on a daylight race track shoot a few months ago and disaster would sum it up for that situation. I shot the previous event in Cinestyle and the following 2 shoots and I have 500GB of footage to compare.

I know everybody that shoots these styles has their own favorite and own opinion, but for those out there who don't know as well, load the picture styles and shoot your own side by side tests as apposed to relying on "expert" opinions.
What I found is Cinestyle is best for hot over exposed conditions, but as you loose light and have to push your ISO it becomes noisy in the shadows. I would switch to Superflat then possibly Marvels, but neutral will kill your DR
 
I have been using Cannon's "Video X" profile for the past few months on my 5D3 and it's a great starting place for CC and post processing. I like it better than all the above mentioned PP and have tried them all extensively on 7 and 5D models.
 
After reading this page, I decided to use Marvel's one. http://philipbloom.net/2011/09/18/pictureprofiles/

I like the look and feel without the color processing in post.

I'm not sure I get it. The reason you use flat picture styles is to lower the sharpness and add in post where necessary. Even the author of that post said he would never recommend sharping in camera that much.
In this case shooting with direct overhead sun and hard dark shadows there may not be much to work with in post.
Everyone has their own opinion many times drastically different from one and other. That's why I recommend installing all the possible picture styles and testing them yourself.
 
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