They're not really gonna match well out of camera. You can do some grading in post and match a CineStyle EOS camera to WDR pretty well though. That's how I use my 70D as a b-cam for my C100.
The limiting factor is going to be the 6d, so not much luck there. You could try the EOS profile on the c100 to match, but that's just ripping information away from the c100.
It's basically like starting without a picture profile at all, i.e, no contrast curve or saturation boost. Soyou can then apply a luma curve in your NLE that exactly replicates the contrast/waveform of the C100 footage, and boost saturation to the sams level.
I shot with a 60D as B cam for C300 and that's what I found most suitable because no there are no profiles that replicate WDR contrast and saturation of the C100. So you do it in boost starting from the flatest image possible (no curve, cinestyle)
Just make sure you understand you will only be able to match the contrast level, and saturation amount, but not the actual image of the C100 (much sharper, no aliasing, etc).
I also shot with Sharpness on the 60D at +1, it helped match the c300 (and also applied a sharpening filter in post)
So Cinestyle (+2 sharpness, -5 contrast, -5 saturation, 0 Colour tone) then apply S curve in post trying to replicate WDR and apply a saturation boost to WDR level, and add an additional sharpening filter. There's a big difference between the two images but to the normal untrained eye I got them pretty close.
Forget cinestyle you will wreck the image and have a hard time matching skintones.
The best way i found how to do it is with the "prolost" profile.
And here's the trick.
Although you can match the C100 and almost any dslr with the combination of WDR and "Prolost" the contrast will be an issue.
So i turn on highlight tone priority on the dslr which is a great tool as long as you ALWAYS overexpose at least half to 2/3 of a stop.
You need to do this so you can bring back the pushed shadows wthout noise.
That creates a gamma curve more akin to WDR which you can finetune and match to the C100
In that regard HTP gives dynamic range to the dslr so that it can compete with the C100.
I've always shot with canon DSLRs in cinestyle and I've never had a problem getting good skin tones. A good shortcut for matching a DSLR to a C100 is a plugin like film convert.
I always used a Prolost style with dslrs (1DM4, 5DM3, 1DX). I would never leave highlight tone priority on or anything that was doing an auto move in the background (I think there was a similar setting to HTP that was best left off.)
I've had good luck matching between a 1DX shot with the Prolost settings and the C300 set to c-log. I haven't tried this with Wide DR but I would guess that it would work well, too.
Wide two-person shot is a 1DX, everything else is C300.
My method has always been to try to match the C100 to the DSLR. I created a C100 profile that is very close to directly matching the camera profile on neutral with the the contrast turned all the way down. I think I started with WDR profile, adjusted the curve a bit so it was a little less flat, made sure sharpening was all the way down, and added 7 pts or so to the saturation. This was with the 1DC in S35 mode, though. In general, I can directly cut between the cameras now without noticing a change. I used to have a 6D and that required adding blur or desharpening in post to get a similar picture. Or I would just output the video and 720p and the detail would look about the same. While the color space between the C100 and DSLR's is very similar, the DSLR's seem to have a problem picking up shades of green as compared to the cinema cameras based on comparisons with a color chart. At least in the neutral settings.
In this video the bride's camera is the C100 with the Canon 24-105 f/4 in Wide DR and the groom's camera is the 70D with the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 with the Video X picture profile. I used the Video X profile for about 25 weddings last year and we had a very easy time matching the color of the two cameras. Of course you won't be able to match the detail of the C100 but it certainly helps if the colors of the two cameras are very close.