How do I get HD video of something like this with the T2i?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/461222094/in/set-72057594101162264/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/461222094/in/set-72057594101162264/
5:1 Macro
- Thread starter Speedstar
- Start date
ryanhargrave
Member
In my opinion outside of lens selection/lighting, etc it would almost impossible because of the movement in a macro shot. The still captures that moment in time at a probable high shutter speed. Even if you could capture that image in one frame of a 24fps shot, it would be indistinguishable. You would need to hold the waterdroplet in place and have everything frozen in time.
It would be easier to overcrank to 60fps slow it way down and add the refraction in post. Not what they did in that photo, however.
It would be easier to overcrank to 60fps slow it way down and add the refraction in post. Not what they did in that photo, however.
I don't really have much video experience, but I have lots of greater than 1:1 stills experience and regularly take handheld shots at up to 5:1, or even greats. So I can explain how this is shot from a stills point of view. Also Brian Valentine (LordV) who took this image, linked to a tutorial on how it is done in the comments.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/macroviewers/discuss/72157594313729574/
Brian used to use a Sigma 105mm macro lens with extension tubes for higher magnification. However, for a while he has been using the Canon MP-E 65mm, which gives native magnifications of between 1:1 - 5:1, without the need for attachments. I've been using this lens for a couple of years now. Although you need not go to the expense of the MP-E 65mm, as there are a number of ways of achieving magnifications in this range without the expense. The cheapest, and a very effective method, is just to reverse a standard or wide-angle lens (reversing adaptors are very cheap and freely available on eBay etc). The shorter the focal length, the greater the magnification when reversed. A reversed older manual focus 28mm or 24mm lens is good for higher magnification. Lenses with aperture rings are easiest to work with, and the lenses perform optically very well when reversed, in this magnification range. Other alternatives are extension, via a bellows or extension tubes. A macro lens is best as it has better optical correction and a greater native magnification range, which is useful for fine focus. Powerful close-up lenses such as the reasonably priced Raynox MSN-202 will get you in this magnification range if used on a medium telephoto macro lens from 90mm upwards.
However, there is a reason why this type of shot would be difficult to translate into video. "Focus stacking" is normally necessary for these dewdrop refractions. Essentially focus stacking involves taking a number of shots at different focus points across the subject, and then merging them all together in a single image for extended depth of field, normally using special software. The software automatically finds the sharpest detail from each frame and composites it into a single image. Focus stacking is necessary for dewdrop refraction type shots because generally the dewdrop and the refracted flower in the dewdrop are usually not on the same plane of focus i.e. if you focus on one the other will be slightly oof. I am not sure how this could be made to work with video. With a smaller sensor there would be more DOF, but I am still not sure if it would be enough. You could use the crop mode on the T2i, if you don't mind it just being SD video (this would also have the effect of increasing the DOF at the same aperture, and you would not need such a specialist lens).
Needless to say your technique will have to be good to get vibration and shake free video at these magnifications. The magnification also greatly magnifies and movement, and even lightly touching the camera will have everything bouncing around.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/macroviewers/discuss/72157594313729574/
Brian used to use a Sigma 105mm macro lens with extension tubes for higher magnification. However, for a while he has been using the Canon MP-E 65mm, which gives native magnifications of between 1:1 - 5:1, without the need for attachments. I've been using this lens for a couple of years now. Although you need not go to the expense of the MP-E 65mm, as there are a number of ways of achieving magnifications in this range without the expense. The cheapest, and a very effective method, is just to reverse a standard or wide-angle lens (reversing adaptors are very cheap and freely available on eBay etc). The shorter the focal length, the greater the magnification when reversed. A reversed older manual focus 28mm or 24mm lens is good for higher magnification. Lenses with aperture rings are easiest to work with, and the lenses perform optically very well when reversed, in this magnification range. Other alternatives are extension, via a bellows or extension tubes. A macro lens is best as it has better optical correction and a greater native magnification range, which is useful for fine focus. Powerful close-up lenses such as the reasonably priced Raynox MSN-202 will get you in this magnification range if used on a medium telephoto macro lens from 90mm upwards.
However, there is a reason why this type of shot would be difficult to translate into video. "Focus stacking" is normally necessary for these dewdrop refractions. Essentially focus stacking involves taking a number of shots at different focus points across the subject, and then merging them all together in a single image for extended depth of field, normally using special software. The software automatically finds the sharpest detail from each frame and composites it into a single image. Focus stacking is necessary for dewdrop refraction type shots because generally the dewdrop and the refracted flower in the dewdrop are usually not on the same plane of focus i.e. if you focus on one the other will be slightly oof. I am not sure how this could be made to work with video. With a smaller sensor there would be more DOF, but I am still not sure if it would be enough. You could use the crop mode on the T2i, if you don't mind it just being SD video (this would also have the effect of increasing the DOF at the same aperture, and you would not need such a specialist lens).
Needless to say your technique will have to be good to get vibration and shake free video at these magnifications. The magnification also greatly magnifies and movement, and even lightly touching the camera will have everything bouncing around.