C100: 4.5 hrs recording C100 + Ninja Blade with SWIT 8082S V Lock battery

bengiles

Well-known member
We did a couple of stress/stamina tests yesterday with a pair of new SWIT V-Lock batteries (S-8082S), mounted on a Hawk-Woods regulated power distributor.

Having bought several SWIT batteries this last year, I like the quality of them - so I don't feel we are "cheaping out" too much with them.

We ran the C100, AF switched on, Ninja Blade running ProRes422, all powered from one battery. The Ninja stopped recording at just over 4.5 hours (timecode was run from 00:00:00:00.)

The whole thing is obviously a bit heavier than a naked C100 - but it's got that extra heft and balance that I want for the longer lenses. Previously, 400mm could be jittery on pans/tilts, as there wasn't enough inertia. It's quite manageable and still relatively agile and is quickly balanced on the Tilta shoulder mount when we change lenses.

My principle concern is the HDMI connection on the NB. The coiled cable (blackbox.co.uk - 3 metre version) is reassuringly chunky, while being flexible. However, that HDMI plug on the left side edge is an accident waiting to happen. I've ordered a longer 1 metre small head version, to see if that is a better compromise.

On the Edelkrone, I've used a Manfrotto adjustable locking bolt, so it can be quickly loosened and the NB swung in alongside the camera - to reduce risk and to make it easier to transport.

We're awaiting delivery of a Zacuto grip relocator - and my hope is that the whole package will be easier to operate hand-held than a naked C100, over the course of a day.

Ben.
 

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Hi Ben - can you talk us through that Edelkrone mounting solution?

Is there a way of swinging the NB to quickly face the front too?

I'm fascinated, and hovering over the 'buy' button. LOL
 
It's very well made - solid, crafted, definitely doesn't feel "cheap." Good value too - was £105 + VAT from proav.co.uk a few weeks ago.

I haven't directly compared it in the flesh with the Zacuto Axis - my original choice. The main difference (on paper) as far as I could tell was that the Axis has left/right adjustment, using a NATO rail. One thing about the Edlekrone on the C100 is that it won't spin 360 degrees. It's blocked by the flange on the front of the handle. This was my main concern when I agreed a sale or return with proav - I wasn't wedded to the idea of the Edelkrone and took the view that it would simply go back if I couldn't make it do exactly what I wanted.

However, it will freely spin upwards and gives me both positions that I'm after - rearward when I'm on sticks and further forward for handheld. I'm also getting a bit longsighted, and it gives me enough distance to view clearly, while scanning peripheral stuff - very similar to a C300, I'd say.

Swinging to the front - no problem, see pics. I think a less chunky HDMI plug will definitely help here too.

Overall, the principle weakness in all of this is the C100 handle, with just the one mounting point. Something Panasonic did much better with the AF101 (but that's about all that's better about the AF101...) But for an owner/op (be gentle - it's not a rental...) I think it's going to be fine. Ultimately, I'd much rather have a camera that had a purposely designed high quality EVF and shoulder mount (and NDs, Blackmagic and AJA!), but I'm confident this will do the trick for now.

Here are some more quick pics - hope they help. Sorry, light is lousy today, so DOF is quite shallow - but hopefully they illustrate what I'm talking about.

Ben.


SWIT V Locks 10.jpgSWIT V Locks 09.jpgSWIT V Locks 08.jpgSWIT V Locks 07.jpgSWIT V Locks 06.jpgSWIT V Locks 05.jpg
 
I have seen HDMI cables that have 90 degree connectors. That would be a solution to your present one sticking out so far.
 
I have seen HDMI cables that have 90 degree connectors. That would be a solution to your present one sticking out so far.

Yep - that's definitely a good option, but wasn't available on the coiled cable. I've got a couple of alternative head/cable configurations arriving in the next couple of days - will update.

Ben.
 
Hi Ben - can you talk us through that Edelkrone mounting solution?

Is there a way of swinging the NB to quickly face the front too?

I'm fascinated, and hovering over the 'buy' button. LOL

exactly my sentiments when looking at the photos
 
Ben, I too would be interested in what you find to be the "best" UK available HDMI cable option.

I've tried 3 now and I'm still not happy about the cable sticking out on the left-hand side. If it gets a knock (as it surely will) I can buy another cheap cable if it gets damaged, plus I will have the SDHC cards in Dual Slot Record mode as back-ups if the connection is lost.

However, my fear is this - that "knock" might break the Ninja Blades HDMI input port - so I am really looking for a right-angled solution at that end to minimise the vulnerability.
 
Yep, we've had a few different flavours of HDMI cable come through the letterbox in the past few weeks...

This is all based on the UK market, which is generally much more restricted than the USA:

The best quality I've found so far is the 3m coiled one from Black Box (http://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/si/1298/12493/HDMI-Coiled-Cable/S1.O3/HDMI+COILED+CABLE) - but the plugs are long and vulnerable, as you can see from the pics above.

I've also tried a locking cable (http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/71562-hdmi-lead-locking-0-9m-av19571.html), but this was too chunky and unwieldy. I think the locking HDMI facility on the C100 is a RED HERRING.

These locking adapters (http://www.futureshop.co.uk/oehlbach-pure-lock-hdmi-locking-caps-pack-of-4-p-8302.html#.U0b40a1dUkE) came and went back - just floppy bits of silicon.

I've used these (http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/0.5m-HDMI-Cable_Double-Right-Angle-p368.html) 90 degree ones in the past on a Zacuto EVF, but the NB has the HDMI port facing the wrong way - otherwise, they would be ideal, as they sit in to the port very securely.

These flat ones (http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/0.5m-HDMI-Cable_Premium-Flat-p218.html) are too chunky and unwieldy.

These (http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/0.5m-HDMI-Cable_Rotate-&-Swivel-p364.html) were cheap and nasty - not robust enough.

The most promising I've found so far are these (http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/1m-Smallest-Head-SUPREME-BLACK-HDMI-Cable-'In-The-World'-p763.html) - the heads are small and the cable very flexible and unobtrusive. Similar to the Apple cables, but shorter.

I think the optimum length for a C100 setup is around 90 cm.

I've found it tricky to find some middle ground - better quality than the cheapie stuff, but not dripping in hifi "ooh, sir, you can hear the difference - it's made from pure unobtainium" BS.

I'll keep looking at some other suppliers - something like the quality of the 90 degree flexing Zacuto one that comes with their EVF would be ideal - but needs to be full sized HDMi both ends, rather than mini HDMI at one end for DSLRs - looks like these might be worth a look (http://www.amazon.co.uk/HDMI-Adjust...397161442&sr=8-9&keywords=1+metre+swivel+hdmi)

I think I'm becoming an HDMI geek/nerd - it's not big and it's not clever.

Must get back to having a life...

Ben.
 
For those using a Ninja or similar, here are a couple more HDMI pics/tests:

1) http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005CWCK4K/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Made by ze Germans and the quality is good. It's worth noting that right-angled HDMI connectors can come in either a 90 degree or 270 degree - the Ninja needs a 90 degree connector, so that the cable exits backwards, rather than forwards, towards the screen. A lot of cables are mis-labelled 90 degrees when they're actually 270. Trust those crafty Germans...

The cable is fat yet soft (ahem), but my main concern is with that straight, long and solid connector at the C100 end - it does push out a little too far for comfort. My concern is that it could easily damage the C100 HDMI port/casing if (and, of course, when) it gets caught. Some pics here:

Matobo new HDMI 01.jpgMatobo new HDMI 03.jpgMatobo new HDMI 02.jpg


2) http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/1m-Smallest-Head-SUPREME-BLACK-HDMI-Cable-'In-The-World'-p763.html

This is my favourite so far and is what I'm going to go with for now. It wins for me because of a combination of small HDMI plugs and thin flexible cable - the low profile heads reduce snagging issues and the cable allows for a small radius, without threatening to break the copper within. Pics here:

Matobo new HDMI 04.jpgMatobo new HDMI 06.jpgMatobo new HDMI 05.jpg

The NB end could be reduced in profile a bit more with an inline 90 degree connector - but additional connectors add a degree of risk. I might try one out.

Ben.
 
Well, my best mate does own a 100 litre microbrewery (seriously good beer too!) and there are some excellent boozers within walking distance of my house selling mighty fine ales. I know because I visit regularly for "quality assurance" purposes...get yourself over here....:happy:

Back on thread, I ordered your most favoured HDMI cable from your link (and a 90 degree adapter from amazon) this afternoon to add to my "cable collection".
 
Hi ben,

What was the model of the Hawks Wood power distributor you are using for the C10? Does it need to be 8.4v?

I also like the sound, and smell, and taste of beer. :)
 
Hi Saf.

This is the one that HW recommend. It gives regulated 12 volt outputs, which are then stepped down via adapters (eg the LR-09 to power a C100/300 at 8.4v) to power the different units:

http://www.hawkwoods.com/products/d...mainMenuItemToSlide=16&asi=dc-5d1&asi2=dc-5d2

It can be mounted to 15mm rods with this:

http://www.hawkwoods.com/products/d...ainMenuItemToSlide=16&asi=vl-dc5&asi2=vl-dc5x

or 19mm rods with this:

http://www.hawkwoods.com/products/d...ainMenuItemToSlide=16&asi=vl-dc5&asi2=vl-dc5x

Yes. Beer. Mmmmm. Doom Bar from Sharps brewery in Cornwall is my current "go to" medicine.

Ben.
 
It was fine until you said "client stuff." :-)

Really, I think this kind of things is not worth cheaping on.

It will otherwise involve tears, gnashing of teeth and ultimately a trip back to the dealer to buy the more expensive but tried-and-tested item. This stuff should last you years and go from one camera to another - like glass and sticks.

See what I did there? I avoided the cliche, "Buy Cheap, Buy Twice.'

Doh! Couldn't do it...

Ben.
 
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