GH2 320/640 bug fix. GH2 users attempting to use 320 and 640 please take a look at this

So to clarify - before power down, we should select a mid row iso - say 400 or 800. If we stay on 320 or 640 (or multiples of these) on power down - even though at that time they may be 'clean' - if we power up in these isos then we will have a noisy image?
 
I still fell the safest mode is to use a CUST.SET.MEM set at 800 or 1600 (if you're going to be using 1250), so that the camera always starts at a high, safe ISO. We had a shoot last week with two gh2s and kept them both with a custom setting at 400 as our goal was to always be running at 320 (studio thing), so at start up 320 was always just an easy click away.
 
A user at PV said, if I understood correctly, that the ISO bug wasn't occurring when selecting ISO from the touch screen menu... hmmm. Anyone else experience this?
 
Cosimo Bullo said:
A user at PV said, if I understood correctly, that the ISO bug wasn't occurring when selecting ISO from the touch screen menu... hmmm. Anyone else experience this?
Click to expand...
I think i was that, but you mis understood me.
In the touch screen menu, it works just the way as that you described it.
i notice this iso differences when i did choosing the iso throe the Q-Menu button, witch is always one step up or down.
And the touch screen, where i can choose any iso, without going throe all other iso's....

It is that i just finded out, why my iso button didn't work. (If "Direct focus area" is on, the iso and withballans button dont work)
but before that, that was the way i choose my iso setting...
 
color me retarded, because i'm still not following.

if I want ISO 320, I would have to start from 800, but skip 640 down to 400 then to 320? yes or no?

if I want ISO 640, I would have to start form 1600, but skip 1250 down to 800 then to 640? yes or no?

Why can't I just go from 400 to 320 or 800 to 640? why the additional steps?
 
Hi Car3o - no offence but I'll thank you in advance not to use the term retarded like that. I have family who have problems like that and it hurts a bit.

Re your point. No, you don't need to start at 1600 to get to 640. Like you said, you could start at 800 and go straight to 640. My point is that if you start at 1600 with on of the CUST. settings C1 C2 or C3 you can then easily choose 1250, 640, or 320 from there by clicking down the middle set of buttons (just avoid touching 1250 or 640 en route).

As I said, we had a shoot last week where we were using 320 for everything and so we set the CUST button to 400 so a clean 320 was just a click away. For running and gunning I keep it set at 1600 for the afor mentioned flexibility.
 
HVXguy said:
This is still not making any sense.
OK, I just turned on the camera and want to shoot
at 320 - what do I do?
Click to expand...

Set a CUST.SET.MEM preset to start the camera at 400ISO. Turn the camera off and then on again. Click the ISO to 320.

You're good to go.

All: this may not matter to many of you. 400 looks great. 800 looks great. For those of you not wanting to deal with this crap, just use 400 and 800. For tweakers like me who want every ounce of goodness they can squeeze out of the GH2, 320 and 640 may be the better option, with a slightly better signal to noise ratio. That's the point of dealing with this kludge.
 
I must have missed the post dealing with this issue as well. I'm glad I came across THIS post though. I hadn't heard of this. Just got my GH2 last week (I'm a late bloomer) So if I just use the Q menu. (touch screen) and click direct i'm ok, or if I avoid scrolling left and right on the top row listing of ISO's I won't have the 1250/640 noise remaining in the camera memory under lower ISO's?

Also, lets say I accidentally scroll across the 1250 ISO. I'd have to turn the camera off and back on to reset the noise locked into the camera memory?
 
I think the verdict is out of the Q menu. Needs more testing.

At this point, yes, I think if your desired setting is 320 and you accidentally click to 1250 en route, you probably want to turn off, turn on and start again to be safe. At least it's a very fast turn off, turn on!.
 
Here's a simple ISO-safe technique:

First navigate horizontally across the center row of standard ISO settings (200, 400, 800...).
Then click up to the top row to select the next lower ISO setting (160, 320, 640...).
Avoid the bottom row of ISO settings, they're noisier than the rest.
 
Hi Guys, just been reading this VERY informative post, great work !

Just wanted to ask, it seems a LOT of you are not using the 160 ISO, is this because its more prone to banding ?

I would have thought it would have the least noise of all the ISO settings, or is it just a 'fake' low ISO generated by camera with the same noise as higher ISOs ?
 
Mursh100 - That's right about 160 and banding. Not just banding though, also some loss of detail at times in out of focus areas. I liked 400, but in fact it's been a bit noisy for my taste, and thus the push to have a workable 320 mode, seemingly the sweet spot (for me) on this camera.

lpowell - Right on the money as always. That's very well put and, I think, the best way to think about this.
 
Cosimo Bullo said:
Mursh100 - That's right about 160 and banding. Not just banding though, also some loss of detail at times in out of focus areas. I liked 400, but in fact it's been a bit noisy for my taste, and thus the push to have a workable 320 mode, seemingly the sweet spot (for me) on this camera.

lpowell - Right on the money as always. That's very well put and, I think, the best way to think about this.
Click to expand...

IMO 160 is the worst. The problem is that the camera is pretty sensitive in Daylight, and adding more NDs (which is what I usually do) is kind of bad. I'm torn, but I'm also glad that you found this 320 fix. That could be a happy medium, rocking both a .9 and a Soft FX (or Black Pro Mist) full at all times during daylit hours.
 
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