GH2 ~$3000 to spend, what to get for a newbie?

Thanks Daihard, I will look into the Transcend memory cards. I will now look into the Flycam nano and the Gini Rig. Didn't know that there was such things!

However, would you mind providing me a link to the Gini Rig? I seem to end up at Gini-rig.com which are no where as close in price as DaiHard and Kubrick71 has stated.

Also thanks to Kubrick71 for mentioning the DIY Cineslider. That one actually seems very easily built.
 
Yer, thats the link @Kubrick71.
I got something similar to the - DSLR RIG EXTREME-1700 N+i focus(New Follow Focus)
There is also Indie systems, they make nice gear for a decent price - indiRAILSpro XVsm - is a nice model to start at.
http://www.indisystem.com/indirailspro-xvsm/
Read this forum for MUCH more advice when it comes to good buys, bad buys... I've learn a TON from doing my research on this forum.
 
I didn't read EVERY post, just making sure somebody noted that at least about 1/3 of that should go towards sound which will buy you a decent, not pro by a long shot, but decent, sound set up.
 
$90 - Z-96 : Another alternative to CN-100 or good to use them both together, again cheap, fast, bright light. Brighter than CN-160 but might not be worth the extra price.

I highly recommend the CoolLCD Z-Flash LED video lights. They are the same as the Z-96 lights, but have a "synch" cable that "flashes" the LEDs to give you an extra stop when shooting still photos. The $30 F550 battery and charger will run the light for 2 hours, and the $40 F970 battery and charger will run the light for 8 hours. The magnetic filters are a great feature too. Shipping from China to Canada took less than 1 week.

Z-Flash LED Video Light Plus Flash : $80 plus shipping

Sony-Batteries For Z-Flash Lights
 
Yes Gonzo_Entertainment, someone did suggest have 1/3 for Audio only.

Also, Thanks TheDingo for your recommendation on the Z-Flash but I dont think it is needed for me since I dont the strobe capability.
 
I'd probably forego the Panasonic lenses if I were you. There are much better choices out there for the money. I would seriously consider some older vintage lenses if I were you... especially if you were going to focus on video. The panny is nice for focus tracking...but it doesn't really do it all that well. Look into some Minolta Rokkors, Jupiter lenses, Canon FD, Nikkors... all cheaper and will really make the Gh2 shine beyond anything the Panasonic lenses would let you do. Nice thing about these older lenses is that you'll be able to control the aperture right on the lens and you won't need a special adapter to control the iris. At the end of the day, I think the overall look of a lot of vintage lenses will blow most everything out of the water until you start spending in the Voigtlander 25mm range. With that said... a VERY worth while lens to invest in, would be the Tokina 11-16mm, or the Hyperprime 12mm. Those 2, are seriously the best looking wides on the GH2 imo.
 
Hey fellow GH Users. I was suppose to get a FS100 earlier in the year but saw a drop in financials. Have decided to go with the GH2. I am coming from a Pentax K-X with a lot of older lens. I wanted to know what I can/should get with my budget. I am still very new and have just started recently.
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After buying a GH2 I would be seated around ~$2200. What are everyone's recommendation?

Just thoughts that have been going through my mind -

Steadicam Merlin?
Voigtlander 25mm f0.95?
- other lens? Something wider preferably?
DP6/ External monitor?
Shoulder mount?
Follow Focus?

Is a DP6/ external monitor needed? I find the Focus Assist and False Color really helpful for me but am not sure if it is something i should be getting with my initial budget.

I love the look of the steadicam (floating feel) which is why I am thinking about that over the Shoulder Mount.

Is there anything else I might be missing? I already have a tripod (Libec) and longer length lens, on Pentax of course.

Any advice and recommendations would be very helpful! Thank you!

5d mark ii
lol
 
I'd probably forego the Panasonic lenses if I were you. There are much better choices out there for the money. I would seriously consider some older vintage lenses if I were you... especially if you were going to focus on video. The panny is nice for focus tracking...but it doesn't really do it all that well. Look into some Minolta Rokkors, Jupiter lenses, Canon FD, Nikkors... all cheaper and will really make the Gh2 shine beyond anything the Panasonic lenses would let you do.

Ummm... There aren't many fast vintage lenses in the focal length range of these Panasonic lenses. The 20mm f/1.7 pancake costs about $330. A vintage 24mm f/2.0 will likely cost more than this if it's in good shape. The 25mm f/1.4 costs about $530, and there's nothing at this price range in the vintage lenses unless you can live with an f/2.0 lens stop.

I agree that vintage glass can be a great bargoon, but only when you're looking at 35mm focal lengths and longer. ( unless you're willing to live with a maximum f-stop of 2.8 or higher, which is fine for a zoom, but for primes I would try for at least f/2.0 )
 
Spent at lest $500 on tripod. No junk. Nd filter and battree. Get cowboy shoulder holder. Dont get study cam or slide. Also not fallow focus.
 
Ummm... There aren't many fast vintage lenses in the focal length range of these Panasonic lenses. The 20mm f/1.7 pancake costs about $330. A vintage 24mm f/2.0 will likely cost more than this if it's in good shape. The 25mm f/1.4 costs about $530, and there's nothing at this price range in the vintage lenses unless you can live with an f/2.0 lens stop.

I agree that vintage glass can be a great bargoon, but only when you're looking at 35mm focal lengths and longer. ( unless you're willing to live with a maximum f-stop of 2.8 or higher, which is fine for a zoom, but for primes I would try for at least f/2.0 )

Not a GH2 user, but just butting in.

I consider anything faster than 2.8 "gravy". They are nice, they have moments they are VERY useful, but you don't really NEED faster than 2.8. In fact I shoot on 3.5 max aperture primes all the time. NONE of my wide glass is faster than 2.8. Now I shoot on a camera with a bigger sensor, but still, don't discount a lens just because it's 2.8 or 3.5.
 
Fast glass does make a difference when shooting with M4/3 format.

Last week I shot a two person interview on a busy theatrical stage and used my 25mm f/0.95 Voightlander lens stopped down to f/2.0, which was enough DOF to get both people sharp and still blur the background enough to not be too distracting. Yes, I could have got the shot at f/2.8 or f/3.5, but the background would have distracted the viewer's eye from the people being interviewed.
 
5d mkii? Nah, tempting but nah.

Russiana007 - I already have a Libec Tripod that I have been using for video so far so I don't think I would need to throw money at another one just yet.

Pertaining to the Panasonic vs Vintage argument going on. I have a few vintage Pentax primes that I am thinking about using since I will still stick to Pentax bodies if I still do still photography.
They are all pretty fast lens too.

However, Considering Gonzo_Entertainment and TheDingo suggestion, it doesnt seem like anything faster than f/2.0 is needed. But I am guess that is more of an experimental game for me.
 
Don't spend it all at once. Take your time, shoot one thing then buy what you need then shoot another...
You will create the best rig like this.
 
+1 to taking your time. The 14-140mm panasonic represents the best all round lens for day exteriors. The canon fd range still represents good value for fast primes but as some have noted, there's nothing cheap in the wideangle department. I rely a lot on a shoulder rig, but you can use the gorrilla pod zoom perfectly well for this kind of work - bend one leg over your shoulder and the other 2 legs for for hands - works a treat. You won't survive without ND filters, but for the moment buy ND8 and ND4 screw ins - you can save for a heliopan, singh-ray or a tiffen variND later.

my 02
 
Not a GH2 user, but just butting in.

I consider anything faster than 2.8 "gravy". They are nice, they have moments they are VERY useful, but you don't really NEED faster than 2.8. In fact I shoot on 3.5 max aperture primes all the time. NONE of my wide glass is faster than 2.8. Now I shoot on a camera with a bigger sensor, but still, don't discount a lens just because it's 2.8 or 3.5.

Consider the fact that on a 5Dm2, a 50mm @ f2.8 has the same depth of field and field of view as the 25mm @ f1.4 on the GH2.
 
Consider the fact that on a 5Dm2, a 50mm @ f2.8 has the same depth of field and field of view as the 25mm @ f1.4 on the GH2.

...Let`s say you are shooting in a low-light situation ( one-man-band documentary work ) and you have to shoot at f/2.0 with your GH-2 at ISO 1600 in order to get a clean shot with sufficient depth of field. Now you decide to switch to a 5D MK2 and have to set your lens to f/4.0 in order to achieve the SAME DOF as the GH-2 and the ISO to 6400 in order to get the correct exposure.

Which camera would you rather shoot with? The GH-2 at f/2.0 and ISO 1600, or the 5D MK2 at f/4.0 and ISO 6400 ?
 
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