-3 db

So i just learnt something in my photography class that i am trying to relate to my XL2. I recently was shooting a wedding where the for part of the time the bride was sitting in an area that had a harsh light hit her face in certain areas and leaving other areas of her face very dark. Obviosly adjusting shuter speeds or aperture would just expose for the highlights or the shodows not both. Even a ND would have the same results. Luckily i was able to find a decent exposure that both shodows and highlights looked decent.

I just learnt in my photo class that the benefit of pulling film isnt just an alternative for using an ND or a getting finer grain out of your film but rather it helps a lot of times in high cantrast situation where it can actually make the photo less contrasty because you are bassicaly making a thicker negative by underdevoloping.

Does lower the db level on a video camera relate to film speed? if i lowered the xl2 to -3 db would it act as if i were pulling the film under its intended "film" speed, 0 db, and make the image less contrasty (good for a sunrise or sunset shot)

what was the -3db made for i am asumming its not gonna make the niose level any less than it would be at 0 db and also it cant just be for making things darker in order to get the aperture and shutter speed you want in a bright enviornment.
 
it is to my understanding that a -3db gain will act somewhat the same as an nd filter.....i remeber in the past people being told to shoot at a -3 in very heavy sunlight....but im not sure that was the best case scenario....other then that im not sure
 
does -3 db reduce the noise even more? i mean the xl2 has a CLEAN pic anyway but just wondering.
 
I have heard to shoot -3 in heavy sunlight situations as well, but i am hypothesising that perhaps the reason isnt just to act as another ND but rather to compensate for the contrasty lighting that comes with shooting in very heavy sunlight situations.
 
egproductions said:
I have heard to shoot -3 in heavy sunlight situations as well, but i am hypothesising that perhaps the reason isnt just to act as another ND but rather to compensate for the contrasty lighting that comes with shooting in very heavy sunlight situations.

I don't know if that works or not but you might be better suited to raising the setup level and master pedestal, set the knee to low and black to stretch. That is probably the best latitude you will get for a difficult and contrasty sunny day. Even then it will iffy but you should get the flattest image possible to puul details out of darker area and possibly retain information in the brightest areas too.

This is a challenging lighting situation and cannot be easily handled without really preparing and even then you may just have to settle for what you can. Controlled lighting is ideal but not always practical.
 
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