GH5 100 ASA or 400 ASA in sunny days - video?

@Fox

Bassman told you everything you asked!


1-shoot 1/50 or 180degree shutter (for "accurate" motion Bluuuuuuuuuuurrrrrr)
2-use lowest possible iso ( or even better "native" iso) since thats where digital picture is least compromized with artefacts and infamous DR is maximized
3-to use f2.8-f8 iris is rule of thumb for pretty much every les with exeption oh HIIIIIIIGH END cinema lenses (because bellow F2.8 is ususaly soft and above F8 is so many problems wth aberrations-diffractions etc that it all varies from lens to lens and is subject too complicated to discuss here). This applies to all lenses and m43 "lenses" are not even lenses but rather "optical" add on to body (body controls iris. body determins sharpess corrections etc...)

4-use lens shade so u avoid flares especialy in backlight scenatrios

and because of alllthis its best to:

5- control exposure with ND filters (variables or not) like they do in proper Cinema....


SAvvy!?
 
Maest said:
Bassman told you everything you asked!!?
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Sure, he was always kind to reply every my question.

Maest said:
2-use lowest possible iso ( or even better "native" iso) since thats where digital picture is least compromized with artefacts and infamous DR is maximized
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Lowest ISO in my GH5 is 100 ISO and the native ISO is 400 ISO. They are very different. Do you think I can use often 100 ISO?

Maest said:
3-to use f2.8-f8 iris is rule of thumb for pretty much every les with exeption oh HIIIIIIIGH END cinema lenses (because bellow F2.8 is ususaly soft and above F8 is so many problems wth aberrations-diffractions etc
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Every day I uderstand more and more what I have to do. These days I'm making a lot of tests and "Natural" is the setting I like more. With "Natural" I can work enough in post. Now .... when I use my GH5 in manual I understand it is more important to choose a right Iris between f2.8-f8 than a rigth shutter speed as 1/100 if I want to shoot 50p. For example it is better to choose f8 and 1/250 than 1/100 and f16. Now I'm controlling the exposure with a fixed ND filter but I have just bought a good variable ND filter.

I can't follow a suggestion of some guys when they are suggesting to shoot 25p 10 bit. I'd like to do it but I reluctantly can't follow their suggestion because they don't understand well what I shoot in remote areas. I unfortunately have to shoot 50p 8 bit. I THANK YOU!
 
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As has been said before, don't shoot at ISO 100 unless in a low contrast situation without bright highlights, as 100 will definitely clip highlights sooner than at 200. Use 200 as your lowest ISO for general work, and "natural" or "standard" style for minimal PP needs.
 
Today I did so many tests and the profile I like more is "Like 709" profile. It seems incredible but I noticed that it gives an excellent color to the complexion better than "Natural". Can someone tell me what function "Like 709" profile exactly has?
 
Like 709 is setup to get close to what a HD camcorder would shoot to meet the HD rec709 standard. It has knee controls just a like a higher end camcorder. It likely has the smallest dynamic range of all the choices on the GH5 but is easy to use and will work directly from the camera to a standard HD TV without any grading. So coming from a camcorder its a good choice for you until you want to be more creative in your grading. It uses a gamma curve to roll off the highlights to avoid over exposure and stay within the narrow dynamic range of rec709 spec. GH5 can record detail greater than the spec for a TV so when recorded have to be graded to bring into a visible range to watch on the TV. Some new 4K TV's will allow this greater range ( HDR for luminance and colour to rec2020 ) but if not then the wider range recorded by the other choices will have to be graded to fit into the rec709 needed by most TV's. The other choices of the GH5 will allow recording of detail both in the shadows and highlights without overexposure but will need grading to use this detail in a finished file for rec709 viewing.
 
Ron Evans said:
The other choices of the GH5 will allow recording of detail both in the shadows and highlights without overexposure but will need grading to use this detail in a finished file for rec709 viewing.
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Dear Ron, it is a really good reply.

In your opinion does it make sense to prefer "Like 709" profile if I shoot UHD 25p 10bit ?
 
Ron Evans said:
No, if you are going to shoot 25P UHD I would use HLG and get the extra dynamic range.
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But there isn't HLG profile in the GH5. I meant if it make sense to prefer "Like 709" among those already pre-established profiles if I shoot UHD because you have just told me "Like 709" is setup for HD. I need to understand it.
 
like 709 meets the spec for normal HD TV colour etc. The GH5 can record much better dynamic range and colour than rec709. If you want to take advantage of that then you need to record with a profile that can use the range. However when you make a file to watch on your TV you will have to grade the file to meet rec709. If you have a very new UHD HDR TV that can show rec2020 then you can grade for that. My GH5 has HLG and so does my GH5S do you have your GH5 firmware up to date ? I think from the beginning the GH5 could record HLG but if one wanted 50P or 60P one had to record externally as the only way to get 10bit was this way. I think 25P and 30P 10 bit has been internal for a long time.

You really need to take a few courses on the GH5 and video in general so that you understand how all these parameters fit together.
 
Yes, I have the last firmware and only now I notice Hybrid Log Gamma in my GH5. Tomorrow I'd like to do some tests. I hope it is easy to work those clips in post with Edius 9.
 
I know you have EDIUS 9 so that will have a LUT to convert to rec709 for display or you could stay in a UHD HDR project rec2020.
 
Ron Evans said:
I know you have EDIUS 9 so that will have a LUT to convert to rec709 for display or you could stay in a UHD HDR project rec2020.
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I have Edius 9 with Magic Bullet "Looks". In "Looks" there is Film profile with "Lut" option. If I had to buy "vlog" for GH5 and then I add those clips on Edius 9 timeline, could I use that "Lut"? If it was possible, could you tell me if I add that "Lut"only on every clip I already can get a decent improvement in image quality?
 
You are making life far too complicated for yourself. You need to learn basic exposure control before venturing into grading and the look of your videos. I know you wanted to get an improvement with the GH5 from the AX100 that you have now. However with manual control of the GH5 you can make the output easily worse than in automatic with the AX100 if you are not careful. I do not have Magic Bullet and in fact do not use any of the plugins you can get for EDIUS so I may be the wrong person to ask. I think you need to focus on camera control ( movement, framing and exposure control ). EDIUS has lots of control to manage an image if it isn't overexposed and the GH5 files have lots of detail to play with. I think PCC in EDIUS 9 will be able to manage HLG without any plugin.
 
FoxAdriano said:
Sure, he was always kind to reply every my question.


Lowest ISO in my GH5 is 100 ISO and the native ISO is 400 ISO. They are very different. Do you think I can use often 100 ISO?


Every day I uderstand more and more what I have to do. These days I'm making a lot of tests and "Natural" is the setting I like more. With "Natural" I can work enough in post. Now .... when I use my GH5 in manual I understand it is more important to choose a right Iris between f2.8-f8 than a rigth shutter speed as 1/100 if I want to shoot 50p. For example it is better to choose f8 and 1/250 than 1/100 and f16. Now I'm controlling the exposure with a fixed ND filter but I have just bought a good variable ND filter.

I can't follow a suggestion of some guys when they are suggesting to shoot 25p 10 bit. I'd like to do it but I reluctantly can't follow their suggestion because they don't understand well what I shoot in remote areas. I unfortunately have to shoot 50p 8 bit. I THANK YOU!
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In photography yes it would be better to shoot 1/250th shutter. For video however the shutter speed directly affects the motion of each frame. If you end up shooting different shots with different shutter speeds the movement is going to look different between each shot. The ultimate advice is to use a variable ND filter and keep the lens no higher than f8 and keep your shutter speed at a constant value. You then use the ND filter to control how much light hits the sensor.

Exposure is about controlling the light. Aperture controls the light, shutter speed controls the light and ISO controls the light. In terms of video all three do control the light but can have negative impact on the look of the video.

Aperture can have diffraction if raised too high.
Shutter can create a strobe look in the movement.
ISO can only go down so far and when raised adds noise.
ND filtering is the forth option and when you have a good one there are really no negative side effects outside of inconvenience. Thats why Variable ND is a nice choice. A bad ND filter can impact the detail and color cast but a really good one like the SLR Magic will have minimal impact and greatly outweighs the impact of the other three exposure methods.

In an absolute pinch I would adjust the aperture before the shutter speed when shooting video. To me the shutter speed is absolutely untouchable and under no circumstances will I adjust it. If the aperture isn't enough and I'm too lazy to use a ND filter then I'm screwed because thats the laws of physics.
 
Mark Williams said:
Slap an ND filter on your lens and you will have more choice with shutter speed and desired aperture. I try to stay away from 100 because of loss of dynamic range.
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Mark, I watched some of your works and they are really amazing. I think you've spent a whole lifetime doing that kind of video and you have a lot of experience. Can I ask you a question? Beyond your need to make your videos with different ways, in general do you love more 25p 10bit or 50p 8bit? Repeat, I'm not talking about your videos but in general.
 
Out of curiosity: what could it happen if I shoot 50p 8bit and I make video editing at 25p?
Will my documentary look like as it was shot at 25p? Thanks.
 
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I accidentally did a test with the GH5 with the "Hybrid Log Gamma" profile. It's a very flat and faded profile that seems like vlog. Then I added the "Primary Color Correction" filter to the clip on Edius Timeline clip and the miracle appeared as if by magic. I got a very good, almost excellent image in a tenth of a second. Of course, then you can change the color as you wish on that image obtained. Have you ever made this test? Is it convenient to shoot with that profile? I could never imagine that I could get that quality with just one mouse move. I also tried to add "Primary Color Correction" to other clips I shot with other profiles, but nothing happened. They don't even see that filter. That filfer seems to have been procreated for the "Hybrid Log Gamma" profile.What do you think about it?
 
Yes that works well in Edius. Even better if you purchase the Leeming LUT from Paul who is a member of this forum. This is a large topic but it is the best way to get the best out of the GH5.
 
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