Dino
Veteran
Segarza's test is very simple and effective. I have tried it with a Sachtler Video 20II, pan and tilt locked down, zoomed in. The side to side image shift is very evident and difficult to not introduce, especially with a fast rack. This is much more fluid head than most use with this class camera. The shift looks nothing like camera shake from a long lens.
On a larger fluid head, which has a large mounting sled, you cannot get your hand under the lens for focusing, ditto if using rods. Focusing from the top is problematic due to the built-in mic. That leaves focusing from the side, which, before reading some posts, I thought was how manual focusing was normally accomplished.
Jus gently brushing against the lens hood at a long focal length causes the side to side shift. Focusing requires the hands of a surgeon to ensure no image shift.
Forget 35mm adapters, follow focus, this is just normal manual focus. Happily, you wouldn't
shoot hand held on a long focal length too often, but the shift is noticeable at most focal lengths, just magnified zoomed in.
The only way I can imagine operating this camera on a long lens is with a remote focus and zoom control.
Non-issue indeed.
On a larger fluid head, which has a large mounting sled, you cannot get your hand under the lens for focusing, ditto if using rods. Focusing from the top is problematic due to the built-in mic. That leaves focusing from the side, which, before reading some posts, I thought was how manual focusing was normally accomplished.
Jus gently brushing against the lens hood at a long focal length causes the side to side shift. Focusing requires the hands of a surgeon to ensure no image shift.
Forget 35mm adapters, follow focus, this is just normal manual focus. Happily, you wouldn't
shoot hand held on a long focal length too often, but the shift is noticeable at most focal lengths, just magnified zoomed in.
The only way I can imagine operating this camera on a long lens is with a remote focus and zoom control.
Non-issue indeed.