The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

Based on my unscientific method of pointing the camera at TV screens so I can see the scan lines crawling it seems like the camera automatically defaults at a certain shutter speed. The only time this changes is when I point it directly at a light source or when I am in bright daylight. Can anybody confirm or dispel this theory.
 
Kholi gave up on the D90?

Kholi gave up on the D90?

Kholi, have you given up on using the D90 in any way for filmmaking?
I'm curious as you were an early adapter and we are all reading about your experiments..

This camera is not an HV20. Buy a D90 and test it.
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Its not a concern of mines. From the get-go the camera requires too many hoop jumpin' skills, trying to meter proper shutters and ISOs and the like won't be my bag. Someone else can do it. As far as this goes I only care about what my eyes perceive to be in-line with what I'm used to.

Just another reason why it needs manual controls.
 
Also if I set the AE-L with the lens cap on then it always seems to default to the same setting. This isn't very useful because it seems to be like an ISO of 3200 with a 1/60 or so shutter.
 
Based on my unscientific method of pointing the camera at TV screens so I can see the scan lines crawling it seems like the camera automatically defaults at a certain shutter speed. The only time this changes is when I point it directly at a light source or when I am in bright daylight. Can anybody confirm or dispel this theory.

The camera, when pointed at a light or dark source I think, continues to adjust shutter and ISO values as it sees fit. There are many more shutter values in the DSLR than there are in say an HVX. So a certain range can look like 1/2000 to us.

I would be happy to see someone meterin' it. I don't have the means or enough patiences left to do so. lol
 
Sorry I meant that if you taped up the contacts of your 50mm f1.8 it should act like a non CPU lens and in turn would act like an AIS or manual focus lens. So it technically could do the exposure trick, unless there is something I'm missing. I just started using Nikon so please excuse me if I don't make sense.:)

It's a physical lens thing. When I mount my 50mm 1.8D the aperture lever gets pushed to wide open as I twist to lock the lens. The only thing I could do is cut off this lever, to my knowledge. With taped contacts, yes, it would then act like a non-CPU lens.
 
press "info" once,get blue screen,Keep "Iso" on the left pressed,turn the upper-back wheel to desired Iso

Keep the camera aimed at a wall or a corner exposed to about 50 percent.

Don't move it.

Change the ISO to 200.

Tell me if it looks like 200 or 3200.

I hope your method is right and I overlooked it!
 
Keep the camera aimed at a wall or a corner exposed to about 50 percent.

Don't move it.

Change the ISO to 200.

Tell me if it looks like 200 or 3200.

I hope your method is right and I overlooked it!

I went to extremes...Low end it has more noise than opposite.Also the contrast looks better on high end(doesn't really makes any sense)
 
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Kholi, have you given up on using the D90 in any way for filmmaking?
I'm curious as you were an early adapter and we are all reading about your experiments..

Nope! Absolutely not. Music videos? Hell yeah. Short narratives? Hell yeah.

Learn it, work around it, own it.
 
I went to extremes...Low end it has more noise than opposite.Also the contrast looks better on high end(doesn't really makes any sense)

Did you do just what I outlined and confirm that you're actually changing the ISO

You must keep the camera pointed at one area and have AE-L (LOCK) on to prove that it's actually changing. I did just what you said and no change what-soever.
 
for picture works as is supposed to...but try what I said in my last post...you`ll see a small difference(go to extremes and put it on LV).Iso is not adjusting,but something is changing for sure...or i`m to tired.
 
for picture works as is supposed to...but try what I said in my last post...you`ll see a small difference(go to extremes and put it on LV).Iso is not adjusting,but something is changing for sure...or i`m to tired.

What's adjusting is when you switch in and out of LV mode. The camera, for a split second, goes into auto mode before AE-L re-engages. That's why I told ya to keep it steady on a shadow when you do the adjustment.

And, why the 'trick' involves pointing the camera under the desk because the shadows don't change there and they're generally fifty percent exposed.

You got me all excited about ISO Being manual. =(
 
has anyone tried letting the camera adjust the iso automatically and then locking it? like how chase jarvis videos always had the flicker and locking it when the iso/exposure is right? i dunno, just throwing out some ideas here.
 
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