The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

kevm14 said:
It's not even G lenses that are necessarily the problem. The AF lenses that still have an aperture ring (like my 50mm 1.8D) also won't work because there's no way to stop down the lens with the ring unless you physically decouple the lever from the camera. The lens is at F/22 and locked when you put it on the camera, yet when you rotate it in the flange, it opens to 1.8. That's how they work on auto aperture control cameras.
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Kev, have you tried taping down the contacts of the lens? I have a D700 and a 28-70mm and before it would give me an "FEE" error unless it was at the F22 locked position. But when I taped up the contacts on the lens I can now use it like an AIS lens and in LiveView you can control the aperture on the lens.

If you or anybody else can test this with their D90s it would be greatly appreciated. The 28-70mm is definitely a lens I want to try with movie mode.
 
John Caballero said:
This seems to be a 320 ISO camera like the HVX 200. The trick for ISO seems to be to : go to Shooting Menu> ISO SENSITIVITY SETTINGS>Set The ISO>Disable ISO Sensitivity Auto Control. The Auto ISO is disabled and you set the ISO manually. I shot at 320, 200, and Lo ).3 and the awful grain I was seeing earlier was much better. The only way to figure out the change of ISO was to see the difference in grain. When ISO was auto at 3200 the grain was horrendus.
Also those yellow stripes started appearing in my footage when I turn on the workbench floorescent lights in my kithchen and started shooting. The flourescent light in the apartment entrance was ok, maybe because I took it from a flourescent video lighting kit I purchased. I don't know if somebody else posted this info but those are my findings so far. The stills look great.
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I could have sworn that Kholi verified ISO cannot be controlled in this manner.
 
ekai said:
Kev, have you tried taping down the contacts of the lens? I have a D700 and a 28-70mm and before it would give me an "FEE" error unless it was at the F22 locked position. But when I taped up the contacts on the lens I can now use it like an AIS lens and in LiveView you can control the aperture on the lens.

If you or anybody else can test this with their D90s it would be greatly appreciated. The 28-70mm is definitely a lens I want to try with movie mode.
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The D700 is specifically configured by Nikon to be able to meter this way with manual lenses without CPUs. There should be something in the menu like "set aperture via the camera" or "set aperture on the lens." D90 has no such ability.
 
kevm14 said:
The D700 is specifically configured by Nikon to be able to meter this way with manual lenses without CPUs. There should be something in the menu like "set aperture via the camera" or "set aperture on the lens." D90 has no such ability.
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Sorry I meant that if you taped up the contacts of your 50mm f1.8 it should act like a non CPU lens and in turn would act like an AIS or manual focus lens. So it technically could do the exposure trick, unless there is something I'm missing. I just started using Nikon so please excuse me if I don't make sense.:)
 
bearing said:
Thanks for finding this method Kholi. I've been thinking about what happens in the camera. My theory is that when camera sees black it increases shutter to 1/24 and ISO to the max value. Then, when Easy Exposure is decreased, ISO is decreasing as well. If max is ISO6400, then -5.0 would put it down to ISO200. So, after using your method Kholi the settings will be 1/24 shutter and ISO200.

That was just a thought and may be all wrong. To know and be able to test other theories, it's necessary to do measurements. A tool that can be used to measure exposure time is described in this post and this post.

If the right theory is made and measurements prove that theory then you may be able to do something like Barry Green did on the HV20, see this article. Every Easy exposure step may have a predictable ISO and shutter when the lens cap is on or when a controllable light source is put in front of the lens.

So, if you cap the lens in CINE mode (using both HDV 24P recording and the CINE exposure mode), and then lock exposure, you’ll be presented with a range from +3 to –11. The actual settings the camera chooses look like this:
EXP Shutter Iris Gain
+3 1/8 f/1.8 10.5dB
+2 1/15 f/1.8 10.5dB
+1 1/15 f/1.8 9dB
0 1/24 f/1.8 9dB
-1 1/24 f/1.8 7.5dB
-2 1/24 f/1.8 6dB
-3 1/24 f/1.8 4.5dB
-4 1/24 f/1.8 3dB
-5 1/24 f/1.8 1.5dB
-6 1/24 f/1.8 0dB
-7 1/24 f/1.8 0dB
-8 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-9 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-10 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-11 1/48 f/1.8 0dB
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This camera is not an HV20. Buy a D90 and test it.

So, in all humbleness I say this is wrong, you can make measurements of the shutter time and may be able to draw conclusion about the ISO. It would be great if you tried measuring it.
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Its not a concern of mines. From the get-go the camera requires too many hoop jumpin' skills, trying to meter proper shutters and ISOs and the like won't be my bag. Someone else can do it. As far as this goes I only care about what my eyes perceive to be in-line with what I'm used to.

Just another reason why it needs manual controls.
 
Anhar Miah said:
With all due respect sir, I am fully aware of what feature correspondence is, I am aware of the literature on machine vision, and I'm personally writing code (backburner project) based on machine visison techniques.

Anyway bottom line, yes I agree with you that there are rolling shutter "correction" methods out there, but in terms of day to day production use, thats a level I feel has not been reached (yet) and in my humble view I do not think it can ever be reached because this is a case where the problem lies at the root. I would love to be proven wrong, someone may come up with a solution.
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Really not my intention to get into a discussion about this on this board (and this thread), as I've said before; I merely pointed out a tool that can perhaps help some people out (I now regret talking from my personal experience on emerging technology). I'm not sure why you would suddenly understand feature correspondence in my subsequent post when you didn't originally - but this isn't worth pursuing. I do this for a living as well, while I leave the artistic nuances to more learned (and creative) individuals- certain technical details I feel I'm an authority to speak of.

I do a agree, rolling shutter prediction algorithms are not the be-all-end-all of correcting the short-comings of CMOS sensors. Far from it. As I've said originally, there are hardware as well software solutions; neither are an absolute nor automatic solution. If it was easy it would have been done already. . .

However, I implore you to examine what advancements that have been accomplished recently. I would be more then happy to share some information via PM that isn't suitable for public discussion, however, I would say in the near-term, a lot of the concerns that many express are already being addressed. Its not like these obvisous issues are being ignored by companies.
 
stoiqa said:
Just got mine.....I`ll post some asap.Kholi,your trick works wonders :)
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Excellente! I'm still exploring what the "trick", which isn't really a trick the more I do it, seriously does but the clean footage is nice. Again, it makes me feel better about the camera.

Does using a lens cap do anything?
 
Kholi said:
Its not a concern of mines. From the get-go the camera requires too many hoop jumpin' skills, trying to meter proper shutters and ISOs and the like won't be my bag. Someone else can do it. As far as this goes I only care about what my eyes perceive to be in-line with what I'm used to.
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I understand your attitude and that's OK.
Kholi said:
This camera is not an HV20. Buy a D90 and test it.
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I will! =) The 19th it's in Sweden.
 
Just was messing around with bumping the samples down to letterboxed SD, looks really nice a lot of it. Except of course for the wides with detail, which fall apart a bit. All shallow organic stuff looks great. Brought it into AE, added some noise in a 720 comp, downrezzed, sharpened, all the usual enhancement tricks.
 
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