As a new visitor, I think it's a great idea and will help tremendously
I'm especially interested in 1-3.
It's never too early because it can always be edited later as new discoveries are made.
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The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....
- Thread starter Hunter Hampton
- Start date
As a new visitor, I think it's a great idea and will help tremendously
I'm especially interested in 1-3.
It's never too early because it can always be edited later as new discoveries are made.
As a new visitor, I think it's a great idea and will help tremendously
I'm especially interested in 1-3.
It's never too early because it can always be edited later as new discoveries are made.
ya this thread is getting way to big. Alot of good info gets lost within the pages making it difficult and over- whelming to follow along for new comers. I know this isn't D90user... but we should start another thread maybe to clear things up abit? maybe an official d90 category in other cameras?
technical d90 talk
pros and cons
etc...
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Hunter Hampton
Carbonite Member
We can never start a new thread! This is a legacy.
PappasArts
Veteran
Awesome drew!
What's obvious over and over is the latitude and dynamic range this large CMOS sensor delivers, images that can go into dark areas and bright areas without issues like the HVX or A1 etc do.
Large dense pixel sensors are the only way. No going back now. Think just how Generation 2 and 3 of HD DSLR's are going to perform.....
.
Michael Pappas
http://www.Myspace.com/PappasArts
Arrfilms@hotmail.com
PappasArts & Arrfilms Main site
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http://www.PappasArts.com
CONTACT VIA AOL INSTANT MESSENGER
AT { PAPPASARTS2 }
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Anhar_Miah
Veteran
With all due respect sir, I am fully aware of what feature correspondence is, I am aware of the literature on machine vision, and I'm personally writing code (backburner project) based on machine visison techniques.
Anyway bottom line, yes I agree with you that there are rolling shutter "correction" methods out there, but in terms of day to day production use, thats a level I feel has not been reached (yet) and in my humble view I do not think it can ever be reached because this is a case where the problem lies at the root. I would love to be proven wrong, someone may come up with a solution.
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
perhaps edit the first page with a tutorial for getting optimum quality using any techniques or strategies discovered thus far.
John Sandel
Active member
@ Ryan: that's the idea. A primer. It'll grow, obviously, & have to be refined.
Ultimately, users will supplement the "instructions" Nikon put in the box. For now, we can think of it as the list that will answer "What basics would Kholi have killed to know that night he stayed up punching buttons & being harrassed online?"
Ultimately, users will supplement the "instructions" Nikon put in the box. For now, we can think of it as the list that will answer "What basics would Kholi have killed to know that night he stayed up punching buttons & being harrassed online?"
Moses Chissel
Member
Greetings!
Greetings!
Hi All,
Been watchin', been learnin' and been deducin' .... I don't have a D90 but thanks to those who have been contributin'...
First thoughts are about exposure...
Since this is primarily a still camera with video tacked on, has anyone considered that the exposure model it operates on is the APEX system?
read more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value
it appears to me that the goal of the LV mode is to maintain constant correct exposure using the equation on that wiki page - this might explain a lot to those baffled by the expoisure workings of this cam.
Also, the Kholi hack might work with auto G lenses if you set the desired aperture in manual, put the lens cap on (yeah i know), then lock exposure take the cap off and adjust from there. This way - with the aperture fixed - you are tradin' shutter speed against ISO.
My thoughts so far
keep up the good work
Mo'
Greetings!
Hi All,
Been watchin', been learnin' and been deducin' .... I don't have a D90 but thanks to those who have been contributin'...
First thoughts are about exposure...
Since this is primarily a still camera with video tacked on, has anyone considered that the exposure model it operates on is the APEX system?
read more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value
it appears to me that the goal of the LV mode is to maintain constant correct exposure using the equation on that wiki page - this might explain a lot to those baffled by the expoisure workings of this cam.
Also, the Kholi hack might work with auto G lenses if you set the desired aperture in manual, put the lens cap on (yeah i know), then lock exposure take the cap off and adjust from there. This way - with the aperture fixed - you are tradin' shutter speed against ISO.
My thoughts so far
keep up the good work
Mo'
Drew Ott
Wish I were banned.
For those saying that the steadicam footage looks good, I recommend that you download the file and watch it in its native 24p. I'm satisfied with everything but the resolution. There just isn't much detail and it's too compressed.
The lens was the kit lens 18mm f/3.5. I didn't change focus at all during the clip.
I need to figure out how to do what somebody did earlier when they converted to 1080p with grain added then recompressed. That frame looked good.
The lens was the kit lens 18mm f/3.5. I didn't change focus at all during the clip.
I need to figure out how to do what somebody did earlier when they converted to 1080p with grain added then recompressed. That frame looked good.
It's not even G lenses that are necessarily the problem. The AF lenses that still have an aperture ring (like my 50mm 1.8D) also won't work because there's no way to stop down the lens with the ring unless you physically decouple the lever from the camera. The lens is at F/22 and locked when you put it on the camera, yet when you rotate it in the flange, it opens to 1.8. That's how they work on auto aperture control cameras.
Moses Chissel
Member
Hmmm,
So the only way to hold aperture in video mode is to keep the DOF preview lever pressed?
Actually, you don't have to do much at all. Upsampling and adding fine grain helps give the impression of high res footage (because the grain is so fine + hides small compression artifacts).
I did the exact same thing back when the penguin clip was posted on DPreview, and the footage came out plenty good.
Edit: BTW, it wasn't me who posted that frame, just to clear this up.
buy an AI or AIS manual lens.. you will never go back to AF lenses (unless doing photojournalism or sports).
Yeah the data dump could be problematic but if we could get Component or HDMI out we could deal with it with perhaps a Blackmagic Intensity or something along that line. Once we have a good capture we can probably fix most weirdness in software.
Who knows what's possible with this thing? I suspect we will find out.
Helooka Likeaman
Member
I like the idea of the lens cap on to lock exposure, it would be something of a baseline that eveyone could do and give a "constant" result every time. Good thinking! Not sure if it will work but thank you for that.
Kholi, Zak or other owners have you given this a try yet?
John Caballero
Veteran
This seems to be a 320 ISO camera like the HVX 200. The trick for ISO seems to be to : go to Shooting Menu> ISO SENSITIVITY SETTINGS>Set The ISO>Disable ISO Sensitivity Auto Control. The Auto ISO is disabled and you set the ISO manually. I shot at 320, 200, and Lo ).3 and the awful grain I was seeing earlier was much better. The only way to figure out the change of ISO was to see the difference in grain. When ISO was auto at 3200 the grain was horrendus.
Also those yellow stripes started appearing in my footage when I turn on the workbench floorescent lights in my kithchen and started shooting. The flourescent light in the apartment entrance was ok, maybe because I took it from a flourescent video lighting kit I purchased. I don't know if somebody else posted this info but those are my findings so far. The stills look great.
Also those yellow stripes started appearing in my footage when I turn on the workbench floorescent lights in my kithchen and started shooting. The flourescent light in the apartment entrance was ok, maybe because I took it from a flourescent video lighting kit I purchased. I don't know if somebody else posted this info but those are my findings so far. The stills look great.
Thanks for finding this method Kholi. I've been thinking about what happens in the camera. My theory is that when camera sees black it increases shutter to 1/24 and ISO to the max value. Then, when Easy Exposure is decreased, ISO is decreasing as well. If max is ISO6400, then -5.0 would put it down to ISO200. So, after using your method Kholi the settings will be 1/24 shutter and ISO200.
That was just a thought and may be all wrong. To know and be able to test other theories, it's necessary to do measurements. A tool that can be used to measure exposure time is described in this post and this post.
If the right theory is made and measurements prove that theory then you may be able to do something like Barry Green did on the HV20, see this article. Every Easy exposure step may have a predictable ISO and shutter when the lens cap is on or when a controllable light source is put in front of the lens.
So, if you cap the lens in CINE mode (using both HDV 24P recording and the CINE exposure mode), and then lock exposure, you’ll be presented with a range from +3 to –11. The actual settings the camera chooses look like this:
EXP Shutter Iris Gain
+3 1/8 f/1.8 10.5dB
+2 1/15 f/1.8 10.5dB
+1 1/15 f/1.8 9dB
0 1/24 f/1.8 9dB
-1 1/24 f/1.8 7.5dB
-2 1/24 f/1.8 6dB
-3 1/24 f/1.8 4.5dB
-4 1/24 f/1.8 3dB
-5 1/24 f/1.8 1.5dB
-6 1/24 f/1.8 0dB
-7 1/24 f/1.8 0dB
-8 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-9 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-10 1/30 f/1.8 0dB
-11 1/48 f/1.8 0dB
So, in all humbleness I say this is wrong, you can make measurements of the shutter time and may be able to draw conclusion about the ISO. It would be great if you tried measuring it.
This is great, then the only variable that is unknown when using a manual lens is the shutter time, and that can be measured. Can you do the measurements i described in previous posts?
Drew Ott
Wish I were banned.
What program is best for adding "fine grain" to video? I don't really ever add grain to videos, because it usually looks really obvious when I do it.