2.35:1@HV20's anamorphic lens test -- Michael Pappas' new HV20 tests

Emanuel

Emanuel

Cross-Examiner
Michael Pappas used to show us some of the best footage (and unique tests -- with guts to go with such as that last one between the Arri D20 vs. HV20) posted all over the web when a new camera is released.

He will post a new interesting test as it is possible to check from his website where there's this excert:

«•••••••• I have been considering Anamorphic lens testing on the HV20 and Canon A1 lately. Yeah I know that their both using 16x9 chips, however couple the two together and that 1:78:1 chip with a suitable anamorphic adapter like Century optics etc and you get a 2:35:1 scope image squeezed onto those 16x9 chips. When I get that adapter I will post footage from this here, that's for sure...»

http://pbase.com/arrfilms

We shall be waiting, Michael.

Here's our attention and gratitude.
 
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Im waiting for some chroma-key shots. I want to see how well it can be keyed.
 
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This is my first post... :)

Here is some HV20 Pal footage, with a few shots in 2.35:1 thanks to a Soligor anamorphic lens. It gives more image on the left - right corners, but with a slighty blur in them. As you can see on the sample, nothing to worry about.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=GJGETIG2

It's in 720p@25 (DIVX), and the 2.35:1 shots are corrected in premiere pro, so they have lost it's original size in order to present the correct A.R.

Plus, I have done massive color corrections with Cineform in Premiere Pro, but the images still look consistent (!).
 
Well, that was my first recording, so I haven't used to the controls and most of the shots were underexposed. That's the main reason of the massive color correcitions on most of the shots. Also i'd tried to be in a 1.8f all the time, but sometimes I will need a ND filter, so I forced to close a bit (and sometimes too much, producing underexposing).

That was the camera with nothing else for the 1.78:1 shots, and the anamorphic lens for the 2.35:1 shots. And of course, a cheap tripod.
 
Good question Ron... Javier, what's your thoughts on the wobble issue over the 25p mode?

Bienvenido + Gracias (I've been your reader @Chris_Hurd's website). Where did you buy the anamorphic adapter? And the HV20? Yo soy Meridional as well. ;-)
 
Norbert, there is no stabilization. Just the built-in Optical Image Stabilizator of the camera whilie trying to ride the bike on one hand without killing myself. Next time I want to try a digital stabilization with After Effects, and his motion track feature.

Emanuel, the "wobble isue" is on my footage if you look closely, but I don't think is something to worry about. I've seen other posted footages with a lot of wobble, and in my opinion, they are produced by a heavy camera movements that I never want in a footage. I have to admit that it could be a big problem when attaching the camera a car, or a bike, but in normal conditions the footage I have seen with the wobble isue is going to be unusable even without the wobble effect.

The HV20 was buyed at physical FNAC store.

The anamorphic lens was buyed on an german ebay store:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130050012741

(I don't exactly know if it is permitted to put this kind of links)
 
Hey Deimos, do you think it would be too much to ask for a short sample clip of the same subject, like with and without the anamorphic lens?
Very sharp footage BTW... :)
 
Ma dai, questo è pieno degli Meridionali !... :)

ShadeOfBlue said:
Hey Deimos, do you think it would be too much to ask for a short sample clip of the same subject, like with and without the anamorphic lens?
Very sharp footage BTW... :)
Click to expand...

A proposito, I second the plead. :thumbup:

Deimos said:
Norbert, there is no stabilization. Just the built-in Optical Image Stabilizator of the camera whilie trying to ride the bike on one hand without killing myself. Next time I want to try a digital stabilization with After Effects, and his motion track feature.

Emanuel, the "wobble isue" is on my footage if you look closely, but I don't think is something to worry about. I've seen other posted footages with a lot of wobble, and in my opinion, they are produced by a heavy camera movements that I never want in a footage. I have to admit that it could be a big problem when attaching the camera a car, or a bike, but in normal conditions the footage I have seen with the wobble isue is going to be unusable even without the wobble effect.

The HV20 was buyed at physical FNAC store.

The anamorphic lens was buyed on an german ebay store:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130050012741

(I don't exactly know if it is permitted to put this kind of links)
Click to expand...

Thank you (don't worry Javier... Jarred is the coolest webmaster all over the net... And) that was an useful link indeed!

How much did it cost @FNAC? Valencia?
 
Deimos said:
Norbert, there is no stabilization. Just the built-in Optical Image Stabilizator of the camera whilie trying to ride the bike on one hand without killing myself. ...
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you're handheld is brilliant (and it all looks great)

that anamorphic is insanely sharp for $50 euro

how much would've it been new -- and is it zoom through ?
 
Nice fast shutter speeds. I might add that this was also very well edited. I will post footage from my Optex 16:9 anamorphic lens coupled with the HV20 when the lens arrives. Good deal on the german lens.
 
ShadeOfBlue said:
Hey Deimos, do you think it would be too much to ask for a short sample clip of the same subject, like with and without the anamorphic lens?
Very sharp footage BTW... :)
Click to expand...
I'll try to get some time this weekend and do a good comparision.

how much would've it been new -- and is it zoom through ?
Click to expand...
The lens IS new. It's a german store who has also an ebay store.

When you use the zoom, the definition goes down and in full tele you can't focus anything. The same happens in a very close macro shooting (you can get focus on a flowe, but you can't on an ant). With this lens, you have to stay in wide for optimun sharpness. It makes you move a lot to get the right framing, but it worths it.

I will post footage from my Optex 16:9 anamorphic lens coupled with the HV20 when the lens arrives.
Click to expand...
Can't wait. :)

¿Can you give me some information about your lens? (price, store, links...) Thanks.
 
i dont quite understand this.

in theory it is great.. but

you cant open a 2.35:1 project in your NLE, you have 4x3, then 16x9, which brings me to the question. Why would anyone shoot for 2.35:1 instead of just cropping 16x9, in post, unless you were shooting on film?

please explain the gain of using such a contraption. because it does no make senes to me, even though its neat.

i would also suggest changing the format of your video to somethign a little more user friendly. asking people to download software to view your footage is a little out of the way.
 
please explain the gain of using such a contraption. because it does no make senes to me, even though its neat.
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The reason is exactly the same of the anamorphic film: You are using the entire negative (cmos), wich results in more detail and less grain (noise). Also, the deep of field is slighty reduced, wich is good for a cinematic look, and the defocused area tends to create ovals in the lights, exactly like the movies shot with this procedure.

I corrected the aspect ratio for the people, but I watch with the original uncorrected aspect ratio in my projector with the anamorphic lens to correct it, that let mi use all 1280x720 pixels of the projector's panel, and also, get a BIG 2.35:1 screen. Just like cinemas do.

Also, a cropped recording is easy to detect, because the framing is not 100% acurate. When you shot with anamorphic lens, you can compose the scene getting the most of a 2.35:1 aspect ratio.

i would also suggest changing the format of your video to somethign a little more user friendly. asking people to download software to view your footage is a little out of the way.
Click to expand...
?

It's plain DivX. The original file was almost 2GB. If you know other way, just tell me.
 
When you use the zoom, the definition goes down and in full tele you can't focus anything. The same happens in a very close macro shooting (you can get focus on a flowe, but you can't on an ant). With this lens, you have to stay in wide for optimun sharpness
Click to expand...
Try stopping down the Iris for those types of shots. I've noticed with the iris stopped down considerably, focusing is sharper for those situations. This is true with any Anamorphic lens.
 
how much was the lense in us dollars deimos ???? and what were your setting on the hv20 ???????????? did you shoot with the cinemamode ? its at 25p correct ? or 50i ??????? and thanx for sgharing great footage this little camera has a big kick

peace n luv

Mark Dog
 
I didn't shoot with cinemamode because I hate 1/25. In fact, film cameras never go so down wich reveals a weird setting for a mode called "cinema". In fact, they usually stay at 1/125 or 1/250. And it's a shame to not have real control of aperture and shutter in this camera, specially when we have pro features like zebra, guides, or audio level adjustment. ¡Even a cheap foto camera let's you control everything on manual!

I think is just a way to protect prosumer brand aginst the consumer one.

50 euros is about 40$... I think.
 
Emanuel said:
Ma dai, questo è pieno degli Meridionali !... :)
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Really? Who are the other ones?? :beer:


Deimos, do you think that the blur on the sides is given by the cheap lens or it's a side effect of any anamorphic one? Also, when you place it on the cam the image on display appear vertically stretched, right?
Sorry for the dumb questions ^_^;

--
Fra
 
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