Greg Lowry
Carbonite Member
Useful info, Stephen. Thanks!stephen natanson said:Just to heip with the lens "conversions" (may be better to say equivelent lens angle) according to professional (and they get things wrong every now and then) tables and sticking to typical still camera range.
35 photo 21mm = s35 film 14mm = s16 7mm
35 photo 26mm = s35 film 17mm = s16 8mm
35 photo 31mm = s35 film 21mm = s16 10mm
35 photo 39mm = s35 film 26mm = s16 13mm
35 photo 50mm = s35 film 33mm = s16 16mm
35 photo 81mm = s35 film 54mm = s16 27mm
I think it's important to emphasize that this is a table of equivalent focal lengths for different formats based on angles of view. It's equally important to understand that a 21mm photo lens does not become a 14mm equivalent on an S35, nor a 7mm equivalent on an S16. This may be painfully, ridiculously obvious to most, but not to all.
I find that the super-wides for photo cameras have noticeable curvilinear distortion, a.k.a. barrelling (where the top and bottom of the image bulges outwards). They also vignette somewhat. Modern cine lenses don't suffer so much from these problems.stephen natanson said:I underlined the same (almost the same) focal length lens in each sensor size to make it clear that a wide angle photo lens becomes less wide in s35mm film format and is a portrait lens in s16mm. Looking at the table, if you are shooting with still camera lenses and using the whole s35 film sensor area, the only lens that you would be missing is the super wideangle 14mm, they are available for 35mm photo cameras but are expensive and worse very heavy with massive front elements. I think that the sensors which are slightly smaller than traditional 35mm used in the first batch of pro and semi pro still cameras such as the Canon Eos range are closer than to S35mm film size and they developed lenses for those cameras which could fit the wide angle spot. The lenses are however very "automatic" and would have to be modified and may also not be sharp enough.
Good point. Whenever the camera is smaller or lighter than the lens, that's really what happens anyway, isn't it? haha.stephen natanson said:I find the idea of using massive traditional cinema zooms on the red camera ridiculous, even cinema primes are larger and often heavier than the body. Instead of building a cage and fixing the camera to the tripod it would make more sense to figure out a way of fixing the lens to the tripod and just attaching the red sensor to that.
I think you mean depth of field rather than depth of focus.stephen natanson said:Actually I very rarely use zoom lenses to zoom in shot when I film so I think the idea of using small light photo zoom lenses very pleasent for situations where there is enough light and where a shallow depth of focus is not wanted. Who knows some genius may figure out a way of modifing them to make them behave better (smooth zooming, breathing focus problems etc.). I have an old cinema zoom and it is a horrible lens, one forgets at time how bad some of the old technology was, I am sure that photo zooms are better. May be fun to use on the red however.
I have recently been testing a variety of "stock" photo zooms for another use. Some exhibit noticeable focus drift through the zoom range (i.e. they don't hold focus) enough to be unuseable for actual zooming. And the degree of drift can vary between two otherwise identical lenses. But they're generally ok for use as vari-focal lenses if they're refocused after zooming to a different focal length. This problem is usually corrected when they are converted (at considerable expense) for cine use. Breathing can also be reduced, but not completely. And of course, lenses from different manufacturers exhibit different technical idiosyncracies. These lenses are, as you correctly observed, rather slow. The one I like best so far is the Leica (Leitz) Tri-Elmar M 28-35-50 f/4. From the name you can tell that it's intended to be a varifocal rather than a zoom. It's a Leica M rangefinder camera lens (non-retrofocus), surprisingly sharp with beautiful contrast. It's only about 68mm long.
Yes, this could be a problem as the image circle of all lenses is obviously larger than the rectangular active sensor area, and could be a big deal when using 35mm format lenses on a small sensor area. Some sort of physical mask of the sensor may be necessary in addition to any electronic windowing. It'll be interesting to see how RED addresses this issue or if it's even a problem.stephen natanson said:One issue which may be a problem is all the amout of extra light going into the sensor area as the lenses cover much more than necessary. In cine cameras stray light reflecting on the mirror mechanism etc. could be a big problem causing general fogging or strange light smears. I am sure the red team is spending time and attention to light baffles and anti reflective surfaces but just in case thought I would try and remind them.
Motion or the illusion of motion? Isn't that our business? hahastephen natanson said:I really enjoy reading these forums, makes me think that something is moving after all. Keep it up and hopefully Red, and the competition, will deliver wonderfull new, cheaper and lighter tools we can tell our stories with.
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