Zuiko/Lumix glass + Manfrotto 521PFI remote (focusing test)

nugat

Well-known member
I did a quick test of my photographic Zuiko 4/3 glass working on AF101 with and without the Manfrotto 521PFI remote (reviewed here: http://www.dvxuser.com/articles/article.php/14 ).
The lenses I tried were as in the photo (on my "optical bench"): on camera the 150mm/f2; from left to right 50-200/2.8, 14-35/2, 50/2, 12-60/2.8, 35-100/2 (521 controller behind).AF101 and Zuiko-1144030.jpg
In my opinion the most useful for the cine-like AF101 are the lenses with f2 aperture. The DOF at f2 becomes really cinematic. Whoever used these digital zuikos knows they are near-perfect optically from wide open and at all f-lengths--across the frame. Amazing glass in other words.
How they cooperate with the AF101 and how can the focus be controlled, especially with the 521PFI?
First, the disappointments. My favorite photographic zoom, the 12-60/2.8 can work in manual focus only mode. On top of that the barrel rotation is so short even then it's not easy to set the focus. Thank god for the focus assist (the red outlines on the objects), that really helps.
521 remote can control only the aperture here . The same behavior is displayed by the 50/2 macro and 50-200/2.8. The amazing 150/2 also is manual focus only and no remote focus, but here the barrel rotation is long and the manual focus can be set quite comfortably, especially with the assist. Fortunately from my point of view the above lenses are the least useful Zuikos on the AF101.
Now the good news. 14-35/2 and 35-100/2 work very nice and cooperate with the 521 remote.
Without the remote both lenses work in push-focus mode (no continuous focus). Attach the remote and the focussing is as smooth as with the barrel ring, except easier-- ergonomically. You can hear every click of the focussing gears and accuracy is as good as when turning the barrel ring itself. It's no mean feat, see my short description of panasonic m43 lens below.
The 521 has a big (over 2 inch) focussing wheel on which one can put his marks with the grease pencil. It also has the rack focus function which I tested briefly and it works. But how accurately-- I cannot assure here, more tests are needed. I believe especially the 14-35/2 zuiko is very well suited for drama production and the 521 remote can be quite helpful in establishing accurate focus (the rack focus function to be tested further). 14-35/2 on the 17.8 mm wide sensor is equivalent to 20-50mm on the S35 frame. A lot of top DPs shoot all movies between those values (eg Deakins, he also said if he had to shoot a film with one lens that would be 32mm on S35, equivalent of 25mm on m43).
One glitch I haven't worked out with the 521 manfrotto remote is the aperture control at the wide end. Sometimes it gets stuck at values one stop higher than max aperture (eg f2.8 instead of f2) and cannot get it to open up the lens fully. Need to work on it a bit more.
As for panasonic lumix m43 lenses I am not overly impressed (with one exception). Optically they are light years behind Zuiko SHG f2 series. They are usually slow ("dark") and manual focussing is inaccurate. Of the whole line I have (7-14, 8 fisheye, 14-45, 14-140, 45/2.8 elmarit, 25/1.4 summilux, 45-200) the one exceptional exception is summilux D 25mm/1.4. Leica design, Panasonic manufacture, technically a 4/3 lens so the adapter is needed. This is a true summilux shining like a supernova from f1.4. It is also the "deakins" fav focal length, so presumably a whole oscar flick could be shot with it. It has an aperture ring!! It works beautifully with the Af101, push focus only (continuous focus needs a contrast detection purpose built lens on Panny m43 bodies). It works very nice with the 521 remote, again every focussing gear click felt for ultimate accuracy. Yes, if I was to have one lens only for the AF101 that would be it. Hopefully the upcoming panasonic 25/1.4 in the micro 43 mount will lose nothing of the summilux pedigree.
The other lens I tried was the 45/2.8 panaleica elmarit. It is a native m43 lens, so continuous focus and face recognition focussing should work on it fine (did not test). It is optically very nice (Leica elmarit design) but could be f2 for those portraits (like the zuiko 50/2). However 2.8 is almost sufficient and the face recognition focus feature could make it a special purpose lens for those focus-on-villain-coming-up shots. And it's also a macro (cockroach on the wall !). However it's a pain to focus manually, either with the barrel ring or the remote 521. The focus jumps from the smallest moves of the barrel or the remote's wheel as if the gears and mechanism were tuned for AF only--maybe they are. That seems to be the case with majority of m43 lenses with AF.
The last Panasonic lens that might be of some interest for me is the superwide 7-14. Photographically it's an excellent lens, for moviemaking must be treated as a very rare special. Interesting nevetherless.
The rest of Panny m43 line is of little interest for me. Either too slow/dark, or too compromised optically. It will be interesting to see the upcoming 12-50/2.8 though.
Of course my preferences are particular (I see the Af100 as a drama-only camera) and I understand that others might disagree.
I hope some of the above information (on focussing compatibilities especially) people will find useful.
 
Last edited:
Bravo!
Thanks so much for the extensive hands-on report nugat. I think that the Olympus zooms are going to be a common choice for the camera, since they are designed for the 4/3 sensor (and therefore smaller/lighter/faster), have excellent optics, and can use autofocus features for when you need some quasi-ENG functionality from the AF100 in a pinch.

I was planning on getting the 50-200 and 14-35 and not getting a manual follow focus, just using the 521pfi. I wish the 50-200 worked with the 521PFI but I'm glad that I found out from you that it does not. Instead I will buy the 14-35, 35-100, and a Olympus EC-20 2.0x Teleconverter to make the 35-100 f/2 a 75-200 f/4 when I need that extra length. That's another advantage of the f/2 zooms, they are so fast using a teleconverter and losing 1 or 2 stops isn't a bit deal.

So my kit will be 14-35 f/2, 35-100 f/2 + 70-200 f/2 (with ec-20), and 14-140 for steadicam shots. I'm happy with that, pricy though it is.


->I'm just crossing my fingers that I will actually be able to do accurate, repeatable focus pulls using the 521PFI and the f/2 lenses. I look forward to your testing this! I suppose there's two ways to set stops and do a focus pull with the pfi. One is to make two grease pencil marks on the white wheel and pull between those, and one is to electronically set hard stops and rack between them. I'm interested in both options for different situations, but especially the electronic hard stops would be pretty awesome for when you are a one-man-band.

Thanks again for taking the time to share with the rest of us af100/zuiko zooms/521pfi people, which I think may be a growing number.....
:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the review. I own the same Oly F2 zooms and concurr that their optics are superior. I will have to check out that lens controller - how quickly can you rack focus? I would expect a little bit of lag as with other controllers.
Have you noticed the infamous iris glitch with the F2 zooms? In manual iris mode and any f/stop except f/2, while rotating the zoom ring, the set f/stop will change up/down a fraction - eg f/3.5 to f/3.2, f/2.5 to f/2.8 etc. The lenses will not hold the set f/stop value throughtout the range of focal lengths.
I started a thread about this iris glitch here:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?234515-Olympus-14-35-35-100-zoom-lens-owners&highlight=

I'm testing a variety of older Leica and Canon FD glass. They are fantastic and offer a different "look" compared tp modern HD sharp lenses.
 
I would not bet on the Ec20 teleconverter. First it's another intermediary between a very heavy lens (35-100) and the body, the other being the adapter. Rigging this structure and changing lenses will be a pain. Secondly even with Zuikos SHG extending 2x loses not only light but also performance (sharpness). You end up with a mediocre, unstable lens.
Let's remember, the 100mm on the 17.8mm wide sensor is like 140mm on super35 film (or 200mm on full frame 36x24mm stills). How often one needs a longer telephoto in film? In case, there is a Zuiko 70-300mm/4.0-5.6 for 400$, almost the cost of the converter itself.
I will test the 521 remote further , and maybe even make a video of the tests, but cannot promise any quick dates. Real tests need a real shoot oportunity, maybe within a month or so.
PS. 521PFI remote seems fine for one man show. A bigger crew/budget would probably benefit more from traditional mechanical focus pulling.
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't need to use the EC-20 or EC-14 (the 1.4x extender) on hardly any narrative projects, like you say 100mm on a 4/3 sensor is really long enough for cine-style shooting. I only would use it when I'm in a semi-eng situation when I need to be able to jump around from a few different speakers who are far away from each other. I wonder how a $2500 SHG lens through an extender would compare to a $400 lens without an extender, I think the sharpness might be similar considering the 35-100 is sharper to start? I dunno, but the ec-20 will definitely be lighter/smaller then another lense, and I'd only really use it when I was forced to and didn't mind the slight sharpness loss anyway.

The 521 has a big (over 2 inch) focussing wheel on which one can put his marks with the grease pencil. It also has the rack focus function which I tested briefly and it works. But how accurately-- I cannot assure here, more tests are needed.

Does this mean that the grease-marks method IS accurate and the rack focus function needs more testing, or that both functions need more testing?

Thanks!
-Chris
 
I wonder how a $2500 SHG lens through an extender would compare to a $400 lens without an extender, I think the sharpness might be similar considering the 35-100 is sharper to start?
-Chris
From what I've read regarding to 10-12MP still images, the EC1.4 will not percievably reduce image quality on the f2 primes or zooms. The EC2.0 does decease the the IQ slightly, but given that the SHG lens' started so sharp, it's actually very acceptable, and compares favorably to the slower consumer grade zooms like the 70-300. Not to mention that you're still brighter through most of the range. I bet at 1080p you wouldn't even percieve a difference in sharpness, but may notice some aberrations that start to be magnified. I'd love to see the test in video!
 
Hey Nugat, any chance you'll be testing using the 521pfi to do accurate repeatable focus pulls from mark to mark soon??
 
From what I've read regarding to 10-12MP still images, the EC1.4 will not percievably reduce image quality on the f2 primes or zooms. The EC2.0 does decease the the IQ slightly, but given that the SHG lens' started so sharp, it's actually very acceptable, and compares favorably to the slower consumer grade zooms like the 70-300. Not to mention that you're still brighter through most of the range. I bet at 1080p you wouldn't even percieve a difference in sharpness, but may notice some aberrations that start to be magnified. I'd love to see the test in video!

That is my understanding - EC-14 is a superb TC, the EC-20 is stretching things a bit, even for Olympus. For stills, there are a number of comparisons over at fourthirdsphoto.

Generally the 50-200/2.8-3.5 would be a better and faster option for the longer range, or the 150/2 if you're happy with a fixed lens / want the absolute best quality.
 
Hm well I was trying to decide between having the 35-100 and ec-20 and getting the 35-100 and 50-200. It was a hard decision but in the end came down to price, cheaper to buy the ec-20 then a whole other lens. I'm sort of having second thoughts now, and I'm within the return period, so I dunno... You think the 50-200 at 200/3.5 vs the 35-100 at 200 f/4 the 50-200 would look noticeably better? I don't really care about speed at that point..
 
I have the Olympus 35-100mm and the non-SWD 50-200mm lenses. For me, the 35-100 has made the 50-200 largely redundant, as I don't use its 100-200mm range very often. The 35-100 is significantly larger and heavier than the 50-200, but since they both require tripod mounting it doesn't make much difference in practice. I will most likely put the 50-200 on Ebay soon.
 
Yeah I don't plan on going over 100mm often, but I will be doing some semi-ENG talking heads stuff where I may not be able to get close, so I'll use the 35-100 with extender then. I wonder how the optical quality will compare to the 50-200, and if it will matter at 1920x1080.

But I also don't really care that much since it'll be cheaper this way and I only will be doubling the focal length in situations where optical quality isn't of the super-utmost importance..
Plus won't this allow me to get closer-up macro shots with the 14-35 and 35-100 ?
 
Yeah I don't plan on going over 100mm often, but I will be doing some semi-ENG talking heads stuff where I may not be able to get close, so I'll use the 35-100 with extender then. I wonder how the optical quality will compare to the 50-200, and if it will matter at 1920x1080.

But I also don't really care that much since it'll be cheaper this way and I only will be doubling the focal length in situations where optical quality isn't of the super-utmost importance..
Plus won't this allow me to get closer-up macro shots with the 14-35 and 35-100 ?

In that case what you have gone with should work fine. You won't actually be able to get 'closer' - the minimum focus distance will be the same, but yes, you will get a greater magnification.
 
Back
Top