Zacuto Shootout Part 2 - ISO Tests

Cavemandude

Well-known member
So in Part One they were complaining about the GH1 and the light bulb gradations but look what happens when they set the GH1 to ISO 1250 and the aperture to f5.6 in the Part Two test. Wonder what exact lens model they were using and whether that was the cause of this particular problem at larger apertures.

Another thing I noticed is how "low contrast" and flat they had all the other cameras set at which made the image look totally unnatural and would obviously have to be color corrected in post to give it a more realistic look. I have a comparison image below with the Canon 5D at ISO 1250 f5.6 to show the difference.

The GH1 looks like it was just put in Standard mode and nothing done to it since it looks like normal contrast and not set to preserve any overexposure of the light bulb which caused the blooming. It does look much more like a natural image or a "final look" though compared to all the other cameras.

From the shooting I've done it seems like the GH1 image could have been set at a much lower contrast and matched the other cameras better and what would the light bulb have looked like then and would it still have the gradations at larger apertures?

Randy


GH1_ISO_1250_f5-6.png



Here is the Canon 5Dmk2 at ISO 1250 for a comparison with the GH1 at 1250

5Dmk2_ISO_1250_f5-6.png




GH1_ISO_640_f4.png




GH1_ISO_400.png


Image above is the GH1 at ISO 400 with an unknown aperture. They didn't include ISO or aperture info on any of the cameras for the ISO 400 test.


GH1_ISO_160_f2.png
 
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The GH1 looks like it was just put in Standard mode and nothing done to it since it looks like normal contrast and not set to preserve any overexposure of the light bulb which caused the blooming. It does look much more like a natural image or a "final look" though compared to all the other cameras.

According to Philip Bloom the GH1 was set to smooth with contrast -2.

I agree that once I had the detail on all those cameras I would up the contrast in post.

I thought the GH1 image looked really good...clean, sharp, and nice.
 
I thought the GH1 image looked really good...clean, sharp, and nice.

I thought the same. I really thought, before even watching the video, GH1 will have no shot at competing with 5D MKII in low light setting. But this little camera held its own!!
 
Svart,

Not sure if you are agreeing or disagreeing. Anyway, the links you posted don't seem to work for me.

BTW, here is the link to another low light testing between GH1 and 5D done by EOSHD.

Hmm.. the link won't work. But if you go to eoshd dot com, you will see the article on their home page.

Pretty cool.
 
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There are more bad links here than a sketchy sausage factory, harha!

I think something has gone awry at DVX central.
 
Strange. Every time I try to link to an external site, it changes it to a DVXuser link. Anyone know how to get around that?
 
Strange. Every time I try to link to an external site, it changes it to a DVXuser link. Anyone know how to get around that?

Perhaps you need to include the 'http://' in your URL reference. Otherwise, if the special secret sauce software, thinks you are making a 'relative' url reference, it may add in the 'http://www.dvxuser.com/' prefix...

Don't know if that's the problem or not... but I recall having a similar problem a while back when I didn't paste in the full URL spec.
 
I have seen this before. EOS HD.com is not allowed to be linked to from this forum. :crybaby: Try typing eoshd.com, it is censored and replaced with the dvxuser.com domain name.

The GH1 holds up so well against the 5D in EOS HD's test, so well in fact you wonder why people bother spendiing so much more on the full frame http://www.vimeo.com/10657409
 
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But is it the sensor that is getting rid of the banding at ISO 1250 or is it the aperture being stopped down to f5.6? As an additional test, I would have added a Fader ND filter on the lens and opened to aperture back up to f2 while keeping the ISO at 1250 and then checked for any banding around the light bulb. If not, then this might be a useful technique to get rid of banding by cranking the ISO up to 1250 and using a variable ND filter to allow for larger aperture settings if needed.

Randy
 
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