Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

> i might just be able to take a step down ring to connect the dvx to the adapter
>tube, then play around with the positioning of the macro lens and the focusing
>screen. think it's that simple?

That's basicly it...

My adapter (for now) is:

DVX100 to 72mmstepdown adapter to 58mm tube with two +7 achromats then a focus screen ~1.5 inches from the DVX, then another tube and the lens 43.7mm (minolta) from the focus screen.

I have a good healthy ammount of vignetting so I am contimplating extending the distance of the adapter and adding a PCX lens to the focus screen.

-J
 
thanks j. that's the info i was looking for. have you used the nikon macro extension tube? just wondered since you mentioned it originally. i'm guessing not though since you use a minolta lens.
 
No, I started down the Minolta path, but someone posted the link and I thought it so useful I bookmarked it...
 
I was fortunate to score a red dot screen recently on ebay that appears to be in good condition. I know a lot of different materials have been tested for focusing screens but I didn't notice anyone mention the plastic frost gels you might find in your light kit. Anyone play with those? Might be too course.
 
speaking of focus screens.. has anyone figured out where to buy the same kind of case aol uses? all my aol cases are scratched kinda.. i need some better solution asap
 
PrestonH said:
I was fortunate to score a red dot screen recently on ebay that appears to be in good condition. I know a lot of different materials have been tested for focusing screens but I didn't notice anyone mention the plastic frost gels you might find in your light kit. Anyone play with those? Might be too course.
Click to expand...

Nice find Preston. I tried a few of my gels and they had too much texture. There are plenty of different types to try, but I'm pretty sure the results would be the same. I also tried some stick-on window frost that came closer, but not close enough. I think that true ground glass is about the best option. Although the AOL case does look pretty dang good....

zakaree said:
speaking of focus screens.. has anyone figured out where to buy the same kind of case aol uses? all my aol cases are scratched kinda.. i need some better solution asap
Click to expand...

I have tried about 10 different types of cases now. Some came close, but never close enough (some of the DIY DVD's may ship in those cases :) ). I think the main difference between using true ground glass and plastic is diffusion. At higher f/stops (small aperture) the plastic doesn't do as good of a job at diffusing the light or spreading it out evenly over the surface. This is the case as well with glass that is ground too fine. The surface needs some texture to be able to hold the light rays. This is true even with a plano-convex in place. The DVD will have some example footage of this. Here is a small grab using 50mm FL canon lens at f/22. The GG that I was using was too fine. Switching to a GG that had a hair more texture solved the problem.

hotspot.jpg


MikeQuill, the footage looks great. I may have missed it in earlier posts, but is this Ed's design? Looks like a D screen..? Did you shoot this 30fps?
 
Zak: Yeah, good point. I shot in 24p Advanced mode and edited it in a 30fps timeline in FCP. I always forget to change to a 24fps timeline.

Snodart: I followed Ed's second design ( http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=571185&postcount=918) using only the CO +7 close-up and a 2" ABS coupler spacer in b/w the CO and gg. I'll post a picture of it later, but attached to the dvx is: 72mm-58mm step down ring (i think its 58) > 58mm CO +7 > 2" ABS coupler > a smaller piece of ABS pipe to attach coupler to > 2" ABS Male Adaptor > Nikon D screen (which cost me 85 effing dollars on Ebay) sandwiched in b/w 2 UV filters > 2" ABS Female Adaptor > 2" ABS Cap > FD Mount > 50 mm FD Lens.

One of the hardest things about this adaptor is keeping all the glass dust free. I'll clean it all out, put it together, and then there will be a spec I missed -- then I'll repeat until I settle for little to no dust. Would using a can of compressed air be the best way to clean out the adaptor?

The other difficult aspect of these adaptors is rack focusing without bumping the camera. I'm guessing I need to build some support rods; anyone have a set of designs for this? Also, I need to build a "focus puller." Is that what you call them? I tried tying string around my lens but it didn't work that great. Does anyone have a good design for this as well?

Also, is the magnet trick for flipping the image on the lcd screen safe? If it is, what sort of magnet do you need?

Thanks guys, this thread is great. It's nice to see people helping out others on these projects. And it's a good feeling when you finally get your adaptor working.

Peace,

Mike
 
To clean dust from the design use a "swiffer" electrostatic dusting cloth. Compressed air works, but often just blows the specs somewhere else where it will eventually fall back onto the screen. The dusting cloth sucks the specs up using magnetics(?).

The magnet is safe becuase your DVX has a magnet also, and uses it to tell when its been flipped back.
 
I am trying to use a c-mount 1/3" lens asa relay lens for my xl2 but it seems as though the flange is too short as mentioned by someone in a earlier thread that it might be. the flange distance needed is 17.5mm or something like that but i figured the ccd is laying right behind the lens on the xl2. Does anyone know how far back the ccd lays from the mount on the xl2? or what other types of small 1/3" lenses can be used as a relay besides for the xl mount ones whihc are way to big and expensive.

Also is there a way to increase teh flange distance of a lens by adding some sort of macro or something?
 
so i am trying to figure out a way to increase the flange distance of the c-mount i have so that i can get it to reach teh ccd on my xl2. I read that you can put glass filters or prisms between teh lens and the ccd to increase the flange distance. what types of glass is this?

cs lenses have a flange of 12.5 and c is 17.5
i also read that you can use a 5mm spacer to hook up a cs mount lens to a c-mount camera.. wouldn't this cause the cs lens to be 10mm away form teh ccd that it need to be? I would think that it is possible to attach a c-mount lens to a cs-mount body by adding the 5mm spacer but not possible to do the former. Any
what type fo relay lens does the letus xl use?
thoughts would be appreciated.
 
about the c-mount:

i am definite that you cannot increase a flange distance of a mount, but you can use other mounts by increasing the flange of the existing mount.


example, c-mount are fixed to 17.5, but a c-mount to nikon, makes the c-mount into a nikon mount by adding distance to the 17.5????? confused?

so you can go forward to different mount but cannot go back. (in some cases, but not to the extremes of c-mount)

what i am trying to say is that the c mount is fixed to that flange, change the flange focus only change the point of flange focus which makes it out of focus.

????????? HELP
 
While I think this is a worthy endeavor, It should have it's own thread, the design is too different from the edwierdo style design...
 
For those with Nikon D screens,

Which side of the screen should face the dvx: the flat side or the curved side? They both seem to give the same image.

Mike
 
Are you selling it? Please let me know . I had problems trying to get the darn thing to focus I just gave up. Please let me know. Thankx again.
 
Thanks Edweirdo for your effort and info on the DIY adapter. I don't use the dvx, but your ideas have helped me to build an adapter and modify it for my cam. I do have the Nikon D screen and it gives the best results I've seen so far.

Here's a clip.

A little shaky because I need a beefier tripod head to support the added size to prevent teetering.

Anyway, thanks again!

Jeff
 
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