Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Thanks Marlene. I think one of my biggest challenges in terms of chroma aberration was overexposure. I'm using a +6 achromat (good quality, Zeiss lens) and then a +4 Asian macro. Guess I better get rid of that, as it will probably help. I didn't notice that much aberration and I've scrutinized things quite a bit. Any good examples in the clip would definitely help me to analyze this more. I'm sure it can be there, but it's hard to be objective about your own stuff. Once I get that monitor I'll be in better shape with the dust.

Edit: Here's a WMV version of the footage. It's somewhat large, so I'd recommend downloading and then watching. I cut the first shot out as I don't really like it anymore. Other than that it's the sime except for the format.
 
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Hey guys, I've been pretty frustrated with my adapter because i finally got it all finished...except the lest mount to the front of the PVC. I got an nikon lens mount from a trashed camera and I cannot get it securly put on the PVC while leaving enough space between the back of the mount and the PVC. Thus I cannot connect my lens because there is not room for it to latch on.

Any ideas????
 
rosen said:
Hey guys, I've been pretty frustrated with my adapter because i finally got it all finished...except the lest mount to the front of the PVC. I got an nikon lens mount from a trashed camera and I cannot get it securly put on the PVC while leaving enough space between the back of the mount and the PVC. Thus I cannot connect my lens because there is not room for it to latch on.

Any ideas????
Click to expand...

Hmmmm.....maybe if you posted a picture as I'm confused. Why do you want to leave a space between the back of the lens mount and the pvc? The lens mount should sit flush to the pvc cap.
 
no space to mount lens

no space to mount lens

I did that once. It looked so good and I jbwelded it so fine. When I went to attach the lens, the mount did not leave anywhere for the lens to be so I could not push down hard enough to get the lens to mount. I had to trash the whole thing and start over.
 
more

more

I think if I had the whole thing to do over, I would not take only the little thin lens mount ring. I would take the whole lens mount assembly. If you are using a 2X converter that is taken apart, you can mount things better if you leave part of the assembly together. ie; my lens on both of my adpaters keep comming unscrewed. They have a nikon mount.

Just my 2 cents.
 
I'm still confused. Are you putting the JB Weld on the mount so that it goes into the actual area the lens slides onto?

You place the mount on the pvc cap that you've cut a hole in to the size of the opening of the mount. You should have enough room left to screw the mount into the pvc cap. From there you just put a thin line of JB Weld around the egde of the bottom of the mount so that the weld is touching both the mount and the pvc cap. You don't want to get any weld into the threads of the mount.
Here's part 1 of my tutorial that shows the mount http://homepage.mac.com/marlene.mac/iMovieTheater19.html
 
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I'm not sure what the confusion is with the mount. I agree that you should post some pics so we can help.
:)

The only problem that I ever ran into with the mount is not making the hole in the PVC cap large enough for the extruding part of the lens to fit inside. I just filed the hole until the lens fit. The hole in the PVC cap (or whatever you use) should be just a hair smaller than the inside hole of the mount.

You can also get longer mount screws that go all the way through the PVC cap. Then just put a locknut on each. This will keep the mount/lens on nice and tight. Depending on what brand PVC cap you use, you might have to use a dremel tool to clear away a small space for the nut.
 
That is an easy way to do it Car3o, but it is not necessarily the best. Getting those macros that close to the GG can cause problems, especially if you are using cheap macros. But it is a good design, and mine is roughly the same. I should post some plans one of these days.
 
Absolutely. My adapter is actually based on tubing components that are approximately 56mm in diameter. I just use a step down ring to connect it to my 72mm DVX threads. Most of these adapters are between 52-60mm in diameter, if I had to guess.
 
I have a question for those not using the Nikon D screen. When you are using the AOL, Beattie, or other screen... what are you using to prevent vignetting (and other distortion) in place of where the plano-convex lens is with the Nikon D screen? Pics or links to product would be huge.

Also, a little help with terms... the plano-convex is a condenser correct? Designed to prevent hot spots and vignetting?

:dankk2:

maze1981 said:
Is it possible to build this unit for the sony cam, which have 58mm filtersize?

Thanks Matthias
Click to expand...

Thread sizes shouldn't be a problem as ovjamaica said, since you can use whatever step-up/down rings you can find. I do wonder it the zoom/focus of non-DVX cams would differ enough to change the ability to focus on the screen? Maybe some distance changes between macro and screen? I would love to know.
 
I didn´t really get the idea of the macrolense. What is it for?

And how do I handle placing the nikon screen (distance between canon fd and makro/cam)


Thanks a lot for your help. I am from Germany and it is twice hard for me understand everything belonging this adapter.

Will try to build my own pretty soon.

Thanks Maze
 
Maze,

In answer to both of your posts.

1. The macro lens magnifies the image on the GG (or focusing screen) so that your camera can focus on it. Without the macro lens the image from the 35mm lens will be too small and it will just show up as a small circle in the middle of your video frame. I hope that this explains it better.

2. I use the Nikon D Screen and I put it between two 49mm UV filters (got the idea from Ed. Ed, where are you anyway). Then I adjusted the distance between the lens and the D screen. I use a Nikon mount and so the distance is 46.5mm. For a Canon FD mount it is 42mm. Distance between the lens and screen are critical. Distances between the macro and the screen are not as critical. Just adjust to where it works. If your adapter is longer you'll need less magnification from the macros.

3. That is the right screen on your link. Looks like the screen is more available in Europe (especially in Germany, home of fine optics) than here in the US.
 
Thank you so much. Did you built one of those for yourself? I really would like to see some footage.

Thank you very much Maze
 
72mm

72mm

marlenedegrood said:
Seems you can only find 72mm +10 macros in the Asian brand, but remember that this is a single element macro and you're going to get aberations and soft edges.
Click to expand...
What do you mena? I will get aberrations on the 72mm +10 or the 52mm +10
Should I get a double element macro? like the canon 250D and the 500D?

 thanks so much
 
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maze1981 said:
Thank you so much. Did you built one of those for yourself? I really would like to see some footage.

Thank you very much Maze
Click to expand...

Yes, I just finished mine about 2 weeks ago. I have a short clip (2 minutes) online here: WMV format, about 48 MB. Please download for a better viewing experience.

It's just local stuff, not extremely interesting. Some of the rack focuses shake because I don't have rails or any other support for the adapter. It's just fine for fixed shots though.


jrp, I would definitely recommend an achromatic diopter for your adapter. The Canon 250D is good, the 500D is even more powerful. It's just a matter of which one works. I was considering either of those before I found a really nice achromatic lens off of eBay. Also, the diameter of the macro has little to do with the aberrations. It's more from the magnification (the +10 part) that determines your aberration. Using an achromat reduces the chroma aberration tons, just because of the way it changes the light as it passes through it. Finding even a +6 achromatic lens (and placing it about 2 inches behind the GG) will yield fine results.
 
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snodart said:
I have a question for those not using the Nikon D screen. When you are using the AOL, Beattie, or other screen... what are you using to prevent vignetting (and other distortion) in place of where the plano-convex lens is with the Nikon D screen? Pics or links to product would be huge.
Click to expand...
any help? :)

EDIT: BTW ovjamaica, your footage looks great. You are using the D screen correct? Your footage has a look that is very similar to my static GG version (D screen also). Where did you get your Nikon F mount from? I have been scanning ebay for something to pull an F mount off of, but can't seem to find anything under $50. Also, is $100++ a pretty standard price for a nikon 50mm 1.4 lens? Thanks
 
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