Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.
- Thread starter Ed Kishel
- Start date
Ed Kishel
Veteran
yes you will need sanding, just enough so it fits snugly. Then press it all the way through into the cokin/empty UV so it sits flush.
Thats right, the set screws will go into the thickest part of the empty UV. You should tap the holes first with a drill bit a tad smaller than the screw so that it can make its own threads as your screw it through.
With the drill, go all the way through the UV, then through the PVC. The set screws will then do double duty: they will also hold the 58mm macro in place. Good luck!
Thats right, the set screws will go into the thickest part of the empty UV. You should tap the holes first with a drill bit a tad smaller than the screw so that it can make its own threads as your screw it through.
With the drill, go all the way through the UV, then through the PVC. The set screws will then do double duty: they will also hold the 58mm macro in place. Good luck!
snodart
Veteran
Awesome info. Thanks.
Is it just me, or does my empty UV filter ring seems to be a bit less wide than the one in your pic (1st post). I think I will have just enough room to drill the holes for the set screws without damaging the 72mm threads on either side of the UV filter ring.
Thanks again Ed.
Is it just me, or does my empty UV filter ring seems to be a bit less wide than the one in your pic (1st post). I think I will have just enough room to drill the holes for the set screws without damaging the 72mm threads on either side of the UV filter ring.
Thanks again Ed.
you dont have to mount the uv filter directly to the adapter.. the p ring is fine by itsself.. and just have the uv filter on your camera. then screw in the adapter to the uv filter which is on the camera.. although.. my set up still has the uv glass in it for lens protection. but my entire set up is a modified version.. so maybe not:/
Lucky me
Lucky me
Got to the shop today, I asked the guy to open every bloody nickon camera he had, and believe or not the last one was containing.... yep that's right, the red nikon D screen....
rogar-BigGrin(DBG)
now just need to track down the pvc parts and I should be able to finaly get my 35 adapter. I also ordered the 1500 grit 2" ground glass from thorlabs with a 2" plano convex lens as a condenser. I have one gg in from thorlabs, and it seems less grainy than the nikon D screen but only test will tell....
Anthony
Lucky me
Got to the shop today, I asked the guy to open every bloody nickon camera he had, and believe or not the last one was containing.... yep that's right, the red nikon D screen....
rogar-BigGrin(DBG) now just need to track down the pvc parts and I should be able to finaly get my 35 adapter. I also ordered the 1500 grit 2" ground glass from thorlabs with a 2" plano convex lens as a condenser. I have one gg in from thorlabs, and it seems less grainy than the nikon D screen but only test will tell....
Anthony
marlenedegrood
Flicks By Chics
I'm calling my 35mm Adapter the LowBay35 since it was made from parts acquired from Lowes and Ebay. Tested it out this afternoon........it hasn't rained in Arizona since Sept. until today. So I did this short test working rather quickly under an umbrella. I still need to do some cleaning as I did notice some dust but otherwise it seems to work ok. I am going to brace this lens as I noticed (and you will too) that when rotating the focus ring it's easy to move the camera because the lens is just kinda hanging there.
Anyway here it is
http://www.stickypod.com/stickypod_upload/uploads/LowBay35_Test.mov
Marlene
Anyway here it is
http://www.stickypod.com/stickypod_upload/uploads/LowBay35_Test.mov
Marlene
Ed Kishel
Veteran
Hey the LowBay looks pretty good! This is awesome! Please talk about the lens you are using. Obviosly a little vingetting on the sides, but my first version of this plan looked a bit like this. This is something we can fix: look into getting a +4 72mm macro to mount to the DVX before the adapter.marlenedegrood said:
You have a great starter image Marlene, now its time to tweak it!
marlenedegrood
Flicks By Chics
Edweirdo said:
Yeah.......I was thinking that a +4 might take care of the problem.....thanks for confirming what I was thinking. I'm off to order the +4.
My design is a bit different than yours. The lens is the Canon 50mm 1.4 with the mounting ring on the pvc end cap. The cap goes over a cleanout with the screen inside which is mounted into the canon end cap. This screws onto a short tube which has the Cokin on it and then the +10 which screws onto the DVX.
I can access the focus screen from either side with the lens off and the pvc cap off the rest of the assembly.
Anyway.....as you know.....we had a bit of rain this afternoon....just when I had the time to run the test so it was quick.
I'll do more, especially after getting the +4. Do you think Tempe Camera would have a 72mm +4?
Thanks again for all your help!
Marlene
ALBASIC Dude
Member
Moochy, what plano-convex lens did you get from Thorlabs? I'm looking at the page on their website and I don't know what material to pick.
Park Edwards
Veteran
Hey guess what. I went to to a pretty reputable camera shop over in Gainesville and they ordered me the BIII screen. Should arrive in two weeks he said. I have my adapter finished, still waiting for my depth probe and I went another route when making my adpater, not Eds version, but his is still cool, and so once it comes in, I'll try to find a camera to post some shots with.
RH
RH
ALBASIC Dude said:
Hi Albasic, basically I have ordered the DG20-1500 grit which is 2" diameter and the LA1384 BK7 plano convex lens D=50.8(2") F= 125. I selected a short focal lenght for the diffusion to operate smoothly(that's if my calculation are correct). now the good thing about it is that you can remove the inner ring of a 52mm UV, remove the glass and put the ground glass and the plano convex together in it and screw the inner ring back. here you go you should have a GG out of it. Now BK7 it kind of low quality glass but right now I'm experementing, and if successfull then I will have from a better material.
http://www.thorlabs.com/Nav.cfm?Guide_ID=60&Visual_ID=661
next to the plano convex lens click on the material you would like to have and make you choice in dimension.
they are pretty quick for delivery and I was really suprised whith the first 1500 grit they sent me...
Anthony
ovjamaica said:
well put it this, it's the best I've seens so far. even now comparing the nikon D and the ground glass from thorlabs I'm wondering if thorlabs wouldn't be better. just a bit brighter and obvious grain to be seen with the naked eye.
But only a real test will tell, right now I'm having more trouble with my plastic fitting that I can't find around here... if anyone know about a plumbing company in uk that does nice ABS fitting, please do let me know.
Also guys, I have ordered a set of surface mirror to attempt rotating the image by 180 degrees
tha adapter would connect to the rotator box and the later one to the camera...
Anthony
Mirrors and Pana cams
Mirrors and Pana cams
I am not sure what he meant, but there is menu feature in many Panasonic cams (from the GS series up to the HVX) that allows you to get a correct image using a two-mirror solution. Here is how it works with the GS400:
1. In the menu, select LCD/EVF, SELF REC, then NORMAL. (I think SELF REC is called SELF SHOOT in the higher end Pannies)
2. Flip the LCD towards the front.
2. Use two mirrors, as in the following image:
Now, standard mirrors, as shown in this picture, introduce a "ghosting" effect. In order to have good results with this, you have to use two front surface mirrors (optical mirrors). I recently received my FS mirrors, but have not had the time to mount them yet. One thing for sure, the image is sharp and excellent with FS mirrors.
HTH,
François
Mirrors and Pana cams
snodart said:
I am not sure what he meant, but there is menu feature in many Panasonic cams (from the GS series up to the HVX) that allows you to get a correct image using a two-mirror solution. Here is how it works with the GS400:
1. In the menu, select LCD/EVF, SELF REC, then NORMAL. (I think SELF REC is called SELF SHOOT in the higher end Pannies)
2. Flip the LCD towards the front.
2. Use two mirrors, as in the following image:
Now, standard mirrors, as shown in this picture, introduce a "ghosting" effect. In order to have good results with this, you have to use two front surface mirrors (optical mirrors). I recently received my FS mirrors, but have not had the time to mount them yet. One thing for sure, the image is sharp and excellent with FS mirrors.
HTH,
François
ovjamaica
Well-known member
You know, I love the spirit of cooperation involved with these adapters. But the one thing I hate is constantly getting outbid on components on eBay!!! It makes me want to just :kali: people, you know?! Does anyone know of an online source where I can just go and look at used lenses and just buy one straight out? I'm tired of playing the bidding game. I'm not trying to be cheap, but obviously most of us are doing this on a budget. If anyone knows of such a place I'd love to hear about it.
Edit: Well, I guess I spoke to soon. Out of frustration I threw out a max bid of $50 on a Nikon f/1.8 50mm lens that was sitting at $25. It had something like 46 minutes left so I tossed in a high bid and went to meet my wife for lunch. I was kicking myself for being stupid and rashly throwing out such a bid. I came back about 30-40 minutes after the auction ended and lo and behold I had won. I was certain that I'd gone to the maximum (or very close). Ending bid: $26.00. SWEET!!! I can't believe no one tried to outbid me. I had bid on a lens just an hour or two before that (which sparked the first rant) where I put my bid in with 25 seconds to go, became the high bidder, and then LOST! eBay is so volatile, I never understand it. Anyway, just thought I'd throw that out for encouragement to others who are trying to get a decent deal. Now I just need my lens mount and focusing screen and I'll be set.
Edit: Well, I guess I spoke to soon. Out of frustration I threw out a max bid of $50 on a Nikon f/1.8 50mm lens that was sitting at $25. It had something like 46 minutes left so I tossed in a high bid and went to meet my wife for lunch. I was kicking myself for being stupid and rashly throwing out such a bid. I came back about 30-40 minutes after the auction ended and lo and behold I had won. I was certain that I'd gone to the maximum (or very close). Ending bid: $26.00.
SWEET!!! I can't believe no one tried to outbid me. I had bid on a lens just an hour or two before that (which sparked the first rant) where I put my bid in with 25 seconds to go, became the high bidder, and then LOST! eBay is so volatile, I never understand it. Anyway, just thought I'd throw that out for encouragement to others who are trying to get a decent deal. Now I just need my lens mount and focusing screen and I'll be set.
Last edited:
snodart
Veteran
petri63 said:
This is what I was curious about.
Having to use mirrors is a bummer. I wish there was a better way. Does the setting on your cam just flip the image horizontally? ...and then the mirrors flip the image vertically? I wonder if there is a piece of hardware (a small box or something) that could do all the flipping, then the image could be output from the hardware device to a separate LCD monitor. This could come in handy for steadicam or jib use when a separate LCD monitor is usually used.
Or, if the DVX can flip the image horizontally, couldn't I just mount a separate LCD monitor upsidedown for the jib or steadicam?
snodart said:
Yes, that’s how it works. A bummer maybe, but if you can find a way to mount and attach the mirrors, it can be a light, viable solution when you don’t want to revert to an external LCD monitor, with power, etc.
snodart said:
You might as well just go with an external LCD monitor that can flip the image. Some models do apparently.