Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

bklyndv said:
I'm glad you're getting things working for you Marlene. A few wax tips:

1) Hemo-De is a non-toxic solvent based on citric acids that you might look into buying if you plan on doing a lot of wax experimentation. Once you get it, it makes clean-up time a few minutes (can be applied with a lens tissue), and also allows you to reclaim/re-use glass pieces that didn't work out.

2) Cleanliness is next to Godliness. If you're working with wax, the concern of dust and other contaminants is a big issue. Everyone is using Altoids tins, but if you've worked with them you may find over time the paint that flakes off them can pollute your wax. And they're costly at $2.50 each. Instead, buy "naked" tins at specialtybottle.com -- I recommend TNF4 for $.71 a pop!

3) Related to #2, go to Edmund Industrial Optics lab handling products page and order some powderless latex gloves, some of their improved cleaning solution, and some optical tissue. They also have some "tutorials" on properly cleaning optics.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for this great advice. I still haven't finished cleaning my wax screen and these suggestions will help.

I do also plan on making more wax screens and I found some tins at a crafts store, they are round and taller than altoids tins but also have a lid.

The screen I'm using right now was "re-claimed", but only because I stuck with the same mixture. My other glass pieces I threw out because I was making a new blend of wax.

My project for today was to make a brace for the adapter. Not so much to keep it secure but more for keeping it steady. I'm sure those who have an adapter know how easy it is to get lens movement when you are racking the focus. It's an up and down plus a side to side problem. So I made a prototype lens stabilizer and tested it out about an hour ago. I am very pleased with the results in much improved steadiness.

But.......I played with the support instead of taking my wax screen out and cleaning it. Ok.....tomorrow......oh.........I have to do taxes.........hmmmmm........which to do?

Marlene
 
bklyndv said:
I have a handful of 46mm "demo" screens here that would cost $53 for now because I had to custom make them, but the ones arriving in 3 weeks have been mass produced and cost me less per piece, so the price then on drops to $40.

I'm offering them to people here with a money-back guarantee for a week of testing.

I offered this a bit ago but no one showed any interest :(

It's the exact same glass used in my latest test footage: click here.
Click to expand...

I'll bite too. Which one you recommend..custom made or mass produced?
Also...does it fit into an empty 46mm filter ring?
How do you pay for them?
 
Hey Edweirdo, First off GREAT work on your 35mm adapter, its looking good. I do have a few questions.

1. There is only one thing that I dont like about the design. The fact that you can see the thread screws from the PVC. I know this is probably anal, but I would like to make it a sleek as possible. Can you cut off some of the PVC from the opposite directions?

Also I have access to a machine shop and was wondering what you would think about an custom built aluminum tubing? Think it would be too heavy, or other downfalls that you would foresee?

2. Is there a certain distance (which I assume there is) that the GG (wax, or screen) has to be placed in order for optimal working conditions?

3. I have also seen where everyone is having a hard time finding the F3 screen that you used. Have you found a better solution (has Bill emailed you back?)?

Any information would be greatly appreciated. I have read most of all the replies in your post, but I dont remember peeps asking about dimension or distance requirments (in case of modification or changes).
 
This thread has been a terrific resource for not only in building the adapter, but also building the courage to build the adapter. :) Thanks Ed and everyone else that contributed.

My question is, did I miss the post that discussed how to build the support arm or was it implied that it's simply easier to get the part from Ed?
 
Super8 said:
I'll bite too. Which one you recommend..custom made or mass produced?
Also...does it fit into an empty 46mm filter ring?
How do you pay for them?
Click to expand...

The 46mm glass is actually from Hoya 49mm UV filters, so the glass fits those frames.

Either way, the glass from Hoya's filters and the glass I'm having mass produced are of the same surface quality.

Payment is PayPal based. Email me at info at go-35 dot com for more info if you're interested...
 
pywl said:
Hey Edweirdo, First off GREAT work on your 35mm adapter, its looking good. I do have a few questions.

1. There is only one thing that I don’t like about the design. The fact that you can see the thread screws from the PVC. I know this is probably anal, but I would like to make it a sleek as possible. Can you cut off some of the PVC from the opposite directions?

Also I have access to a machine shop and was wondering what you would think about an custom built aluminum tubing? Think it would be too heavy, or other downfalls that you would foresee?

2. Is there a certain distance (which I assume there is) that the GG (wax, or screen) has to be placed in order for optimal working conditions?

3. I have also seen where everyone is having a hard time finding the F3 screen that you used. Have you found a better solution (has Bill emailed you back?)?

Any information would be greatly appreciated. I have read most of all the replies in your post, but I don’t remember peeps asking about dimension or distance requirements (in case of modification or changes).
Click to expand...

Thanks, and to answer your questions:
1) that section of the PVC probably could get trimmed down to avoid seeing the threads, and as my adapter is posted here as a starting point for people to run with it and perfect it themselves, you should be able to cut it down. After building it, just measure the gap where you see threads, then unscrew the mount and trim that distance off the tip of the threads, then screw it back together and the gap should be gone. Never bothered me really, but it would make it sleeker and shouldn't affect the focus.

Re aluminum tube, that would be great if you could do it affordably. Most people here don’t have access to machine shops and aluminum tube that wide isn’t cheap (compared to PVC). Definitely try it though, as anodized aluminum is sharp, and if you could get this design to look like the G35, that would be delicious! :)

2) Yes- 43mm from the rear base of the FD mounting ring. I answered that before, but it may not have been in this thread.

3) Bill has emailed me back stating that he is coming up with a pamphlet that describes the options he will sell for the DIY 35mm market. I need to call him soon to get details. Other options include bklyndv's GG which he is selling, which sounds cheaper than a mint D screen off ebay (although you may still need a condenser), Optosigmas glass, the Linhof screen I will be testing soon, and wax which Marlene used and looked great.

antidrew said:
This thread has been a terrific resource for not only in building the adapter, but also building the courage to build the adapter. :) Thanks Ed and everyone else that contributed.

My question is, did I miss the post that discussed how to build the support arm or was it implied that it's simply easier to get the part from Ed?
Click to expand...

no...my lazy a** never put up the dimensions/instructions to build it. I need to get my digital caliper from work to get the specs on the aluminum first. When I built my first batch of them, I just used the Cavion part as the template and cut the others from that. I never actually measured Cavision’s exact distances. Didn't look like there was that much interest in people wanting to built that part, but since you are, I will get the info when I go back to work tues...
 
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I would sure appreciate it if Marlene did two things -- showed higher res footage, and told us what approximate blend setup has worked best for her :)

I'd be willing to host the footage if that's an issue.
 
Super8 said:
anyone knows were to buy the Cavision support? B&H is out of stock
Click to expand...

I got mine from EVS because B&H was out. It cost about $20 more though. It took a little while to get here because they were waiting for a shipment of them to arrive. There website will not tell you if they are out of stock, so you may want to call and ask before ordering.
 
bklyndv said:
I would sure appreciate it if Marlene did two things -- showed higher res footage, and told us what approximate blend setup has worked best for her :)

I'd be willing to host the footage if that's an issue.
Click to expand...

I'll post some higher res footage as soon as I have something that I feel proud of. That just hasn't happened yet :( but I'm getting closer. If you look at the last footage I posted of my first test with my wax screen, you will notice that there appears to be a bit of a hot spot.....not real bad......but it's there. So that screen just went into the dumpster. I'm going to keep making them until I get it perfect.

As for the blend.....well I'm still experimenting with proportions but the 3 ingredients are, 100% pure bees wax beads, parafin wax, and a microwax used for carving (it's kinda soft). And this is not an exact science here, so much so, that if I did come up with the perfect blend I wouldn't know how much of what went into it.

I have a screen cooling right now. After this I have to get more glass.

Marlene
 
Wow wow wow, hold on a sec.

"So that screen just went into the dumbster."
You don't have to do that. I'd be happy to take it, even with a slight hot spot!
 
I got my cavision support from EVS as well, with the DVX user discount it came to a $10 difference from B&H. You might try calling Cavision directly and finding out when they will send more to EVS and B&H...
 
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Ed I think I remember you talking making support arms for the cavision rail system. If you have one for sell now or in a few weeks, let me know.
 
helloworld said:
Wow wow wow, hold on a sec.

"So that screen just went into the dumbster."
You don't have to do that. I'd be happy to take it, even with a slight hot spot!
Click to expand...

Ya know......after I did that I kinda thought that maybe I shouldn't have.

Everytime I make these I learn a little more, but.......there are soooo many variables, any little thing can screw it up. One tiny, tiny little speck of dust in the wax and it's trash. Then you get one with no dust and then.......one tiny, tiny, little tiny air bubble.......and it's trash.

It's just a do over and over project.........but it's the reward I'm after.......the getting it perfect.

Marlene
 
KennyJay said:
Ed I think I remember you talking making support arms for the cavision rail system. If you have one for sell now or in a few weeks, let me know.
Click to expand...

I made a great support for my adapter. A very slight alteration of the Bogen 3420 telephoto lens support that was made and posted on another thread by Winston Vargas....you can see his pictures here http://www.bentonjohn.com/Adapter/Winston.html

So I just removed the tripod head and turned it upside down......then mounted to my bogen QR mount for my 503 head. I made an extension to the support and then a small piece of wood on the extension to support the lens.......from there.....just use the included strap to support the side to side movement. Really a very sweet setup and so easy and clean.

From B&H Photo with shipping.......around $60. Additional parts......hmmmm.....how much for some pieces of scrap wood?

Marlene
 
Edweirdo said:
I got my cavision support from EVS as well, with the DVX user discount it came to a $10 from B&H. You might try calling Cavision directly and finding out when they will send more to EVS and B&H...
Click to expand...

DVXuser discount?! Dang, I had no idea.
 
Marlene: just a ballpark guess at the proportions would be great, thanks :) Keep up the good work!
 
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[SIZE=+0]Another Question or something to think about maybe, but if it was a pretty hot day (saya shot on 100 + degree weather) wouldnt the wax GG start to melt or possibly be affected in some way?
On the actual GG version how exactly does is the GG held in place? Meaning the wax makes a fine layer for the image to be projected on, and im assuming you try to do the same with the GG. How do you make it an even or perfect consistency?

[/SIZE]
 
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