XH A1 + Blade Question

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prashanna jayaseelan

Member
I was wondering what is the Zoom # on the A1 with the Blade on it - I had it at Z72, which I thought was enough but when I looked at the footage it seems to be darker on the edges and nice and bright - right in the center.
I believe that is a Zoom issue - I hope it is at least. I had an Nikon 85mm 1.4 on it.

1240517009.jpg
 
One thing that is key in not getting surprised by darker edges is to make sure you've got the X/Y adjustment dialed in. I had the same thing happen to me initially. After spending some time to make sure that the X/Y adjustment was dead on, I'm good at Z73 on a 50mm lens. No dark edges.
 
With the blade beta tha i had, you will want to zoom to Z 78-Z80 to get academy frame.
 
mvansomeren said:
One thing that is key in not getting surprised by darker edges is to make sure you've got the X/Y adjustment dialed in. I had the same thing happen to me initially. After spending some time to make sure that the X/Y adjustment was dead on, I'm good at Z73 on a 50mm lens. No dark edges.
Click to expand...


Hey Mvansomeren
Im gonna try that. Have you tried a 28mm on your Blade? do you get any vignetting? if not are still at Z73?

Thanks again
 
I got some screen grabs - if you look at the sky, you will notice that it is only bright in the dead center. I am zoomed in at 72 but I don't believe that 73 will make a difference either. I am going to be re-adjusting my X/Y and trying it out again.

1240533069.jpg


1240533143.jpg


1240533193.jpg


1240533254.jpg
 
thank you for ignoring my post completely, for someone who knows the answer to your question :P
 
Oh shoot Papa
Sorry man - just noticed that u replied to my post - now that means that on the camera I'll be at 2.8 or so if I'm @ Z78. How is the other guys getting Z73?
Anyways
Thank you man
 
yes, you would be at 2.6 or 2.8. That's the way it is with the adapters. With my letus elite, im at F2.6/2.8, dealing with the same thing.
 
you wont have to zoom in as much with the non flip tube. so that's an option.

also vignetting can ben seen if you're shooting wide open or super closed down. i'd keep the the 35mm lenses at around 5.6-8 (with RR1) and 4-5.6 (with RR2) for outside work. that is of course if you have enough light :)

also zoom in some more like papa said. when you're outside it shouldn't matter that much!

you could always shoot with a polarizing filter to bring the clouds down a bit as well.

BUT you should check your focus on the GG man! those look soft... how are you setting your GG focus?
 
Last edited:
prashanna jayaseelan said:
Hey Mvansomeren
Im gonna try that. Have you tried a 28mm on your Blade? do you get any vignetting? if not are still at Z73?

Thanks again
Click to expand...


I have tried a 28mm and I do recall that if the lighting wasn't perfect, I zoomed in to about Z76, I think. I'm not sure though...wasn't really too concerned about the amount of zoom as long as the image looked good.
 
just thought of another reason for the vignetting....

are you using a cine gama?

coz then it'll bring down the highlights that are at 90-99% so they apear darker. so if you've got things that are on the verge of being blown out next to something that is JUST blowing out... then it'll make it look like there's more of a difference... ya get me?!?!

so basically the cine gama will make a picture like the one you posted appear to have WAY more vignetting in the bright clouds than is actually there. only because you let the center blow out.

so use a different gamma - one with a nicer more gradual transition to overexposed/blown out areas. or use zebras to make sure you don't blow out the center of your clouds. or use a polarizing filter and only shoot north or south. or do all of that :)
 
jenningsp said:
you wont have to zoom in as much with the non flip tube. so that's an option.

also vignetting can ben seen if you're shooting wide open or super closed down. i'd keep the the 35mm lenses at around 5.6-8 (with RR1) and 4-5.6 (with RR2) for outside work. that is of course if you have enough light :)

also zoom in some more like papa said. when you're outside it shouldn't matter that much!

you could always shoot with a polarizing filter to bring the clouds down a bit as well.

BUT you should check your focus on the GG man! those look soft... how are you setting your GG focus?
Click to expand...

I have the flip module.

The images tha I posted were at 5.6-8 with the RR1. Im gonna be shooting and testing it out zoomed in at 78/79.
Sorry about the focus - it was off - I was just testing it for the issue. I've focused on the ground glass with the lens off, pointing at a bright light.
Thanks for your suggestions.
It should work fine now.
 
jenningsp said:
just thought of another reason for the vignetting....

are you using a cine gama?

coz then it'll bring down the highlights that are at 90-99% so they apear darker. so if you've got things that are on the verge of being blown out next to something that is JUST blowing out... then it'll make it look like there's more of a difference... ya get me?!?!

so basically the cine gama will make a picture like the one you posted appear to have WAY more vignetting in the bright clouds than is actually there. only because you let the center blow out.

so use a different gamma - one with a nicer more gradual transition to overexposed/blown out areas. or use zebras to make sure you don't blow out the center of your clouds. or use a polarizing filter and only shoot north or south. or do all of that :)
Click to expand...

Ill will make sure to double check that.
It sucks that I just got the Blade and they are gonna be releasing the new achromat.
 
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